Vall Por 2023 Red

It's finally time for some hearty reds! Not the heavyweight, tannic styles that require serious food to match, but wines that capture the Mediterranean expression of Porrera, as seen through the eyes of a family-run winery with deep roots in this distinctive Priorat village.

Sangenís i Vaqué may not be among the region’s best-known producers, but it has a long track record in the modern era of the DOQ. Founded in 1982, the winery was established to make use of the vineyards that Pere Sangenís and his wife, Conxita Vaqué, had begun planting in the 1970s. Pere contributed land inherited from his mother’s family, while Conxita brought her grandfather’s winery, located in the village’s main square. From the outset, they set out to produce age-worthy reds, demonstrating their unwavering belief in the area’s potential and the quality of their grapes. Their flagship reds, Coranya and Clos Monlleó, are typically released eight, 10 or more years after the harvest.

The second generation, sisters Núria and María, as well as María’s husband Roger Simó, has broadened the range with more immediate wines, including a white. They have nevertheless retained the tradition of making reds with extended ageing, and older vintages remain available. Another priority has been the transition to organic farming, with all the vineyards certified since 2022.

One of the most interesting developments has been the evolution of Vall Por, a red wine aged for one year in barrel which used to blend international grape varieties. Now, it is made solely with the region’s two main local red grapes, Cariñena and Garnacha, and the wine is labelled as a Porrera Vi de Vila (village wine).

As well as requiring the grapes to come from the village named on the label, the Vi de Vila category requires that at least 90% of the grapes come from vines over five years old. For red wines, yields are caped at 5,000 kg/ha, with at least 60% of the blend being Cariñena and/or Garnacha Negra, Peluda and/or Picapoll.

In Vall Por, Cariñena is the dominant variety, accounting for 60% of the blend. This slow-ripening variety, iconic to Porrera, benefits from the village's cool conditions, thanks to its elevation and the influence of the Garbinada, a sea breeze that blows inland. The grapes come from vines over 35 years old in the higher parts of the family vineyards, and the wine is aged for one year in third-use barrels. The name is particularly fitting, as Vall Por – meaning valley of fear in Catalan – is Porrera's ancient name.

This fragrant red wine displays notes of black fruit, liquorice and Mediterranean herbs, such as thyme and rosemary. Full-bodied yet juicy, it balances a pleasant rusticity with the deep, dark notes typically associated with Priorat’s slate soils. With well-integrated alcohol, you would never guess that it is 15% abv. It represents excellent value for a Priorat wine.

15% abv.
€18.50 
5.000 to 7.000 bottles
Score: 92