A family-run winery right in the centre of Porrera, Sangenís i Vaqué is defined by its commitment to working its own organic vineyards, scattered across Priorat's steep, dramatic slopes, and producing red wines meant for ageing.
The estate was founded by Pere Sangenís and his wife, Conxita Vaqué. Pere inherited vineyards from his maternal family, the Monlleós, whose landholdings date back to before 1700, while Conxita contributed the winery of her grandfather, Josep Simó. Today, the couple's daughters, Núria and María, run the business alongside Roger Simó, María's husband (both pictured above).
Sangenís i Vaqué owns 16 hectares of vineyards across three sites in Porrera. Roques Lises, planted in 1970, faces south-west and has crushed slate soils. Coranya is a north-facing slope planted in 1978 on slate –and pebble soils. La Cometa, planted in the 1990s, has west-facing vineyards on grey-orange slate. It is the largest of the three sites and the only one to include international varieties (Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah) alongside Garnacha and Cariñena. A further two hectares have been since added, including some Garnacha Blanca.
The wines
In fact, María Sangenís's first project was to develop a white wine. Lo Coster (3,000 bottles, around €24 in Spain) undergoes a brief cold skin maceration before fermentation begins in stainless steel. It is then transferred to oak barrels for a further four months of ageing. Mediterranean in character, the wine offers notes of herbs and ripe citrus fruit, with a creamy mouthfeel balanced by sufficient freshness.
The reds are fermented in old concrete tanks lined with ceramic tiles, known as cups in Catalan. Ageing takes place in 225-litre barrels. The more contemporary wines in the range are sold in Burgundy-shaped bottles. These include Garbinada (€12), an unoaked blend of Garnacha and Cariñena that focuses on fruit and drinkability. It takes its name from the humid sea breeze that reaches Porrera. Lo Bancal (3,000 bottles, €17) is a single-varietal Garnacha with a brief period of barrel ageing. Dara (8,000-12,000 bottles, €13) is a more traditional entry-level red blend sold in Bordeaux-shaped bottles. It combines 60% Garnacha and 40% Cariñena and is aged for nine months in seasoned barrels.
A blend of 60% Cariñena and 40% Garnacha, Vall Por (€19) is the estate’s vi de vila, or village wine. Grapes are sourced from +35-year-old vines in the highest part of their vineyards, capturing the village’s cooler, more vibrant character, shaped by moist sea breezes. Vall Por means “valley of fear” and is the ancient name for Porrera. The wine is aged for around a year in third-use oak barrels.
The winery's flaghsip reds are Coranya and Clos Monlleó, both designed to stand the test of time. Older vintages are regularly available, and the wines are made only in years when the family deems the quality of the grapes high enough. Coranya (€33) is a blend of Garnacha and Cariñena in almost equal proportions, sourced from the vineyard of the same name, planted by Pere Sangenís. It is generally released eight or nine years after the harvest, despite spending only one year in barrel. Depending on the vintage, both varieties are co-fermented. Powerful and deeply –flavoured, it shows more mineral character than fruit, with the polished texture that comes from extended bottle ageing. After 20 years, it develops nutty notes and sweet spices, emphasising its Mediterranean character and acquiring a voluptuous palate.
Named after Pere Sangenís’s maternal ancestors, Clos Monlleó (€55) comes from the family’s oldest vineyard, Roques Lises. Garnacha and Carinyena are again blended in equal proportions, but the wine is aged slightly longer in oak, resulting in a more concentrated red with a classical character and a slower evolution. It is not unusual for it to be released 15 years after the harvest, with older vintages also available. The range also includes Clos Monlleó Selecció Carinyena (€75), a single-varietal bottling rarely exceeding 1,000 bottles. This wine is often distributed exclusively to select international markets and Spanish Michelin-starred restaurants seeking to offer their diners something out of the ordinary.
Sangenís i Vaqué welcomes visitors seven days a week, although booking ahead is recommended. Tastings can be arranged at the winery or at La Cometa vineyard, while enjoying stunning views of Porrera.