Although habits are slowly changing, sparkling wines are still largely treated as seasonal drinks, as if their relevance at the table somehow fades after January. Cavas with extended ageing and good balance, however, are largely indifferent to the calendar. They are perfectly comfortable alongside stews and more robust main courses. Gemma Gran Reserva, made by Oliver Viticultors, sits squarely in this territory.
The Oliver family has deep viticultural roots in Penedès, although in the mid-1960s they stepped away from winemaking to focus solely on growing and selling grapes. That changed in 2013, when they decided to return to producing wines and complete the cycle, bottling their own fruit at the family estate, Cal Xic de l’Agustí, in Subirats.
They now farm 55 hectares spread across Subirats and Sant Martí Sarroca, planted with up to 14 different varieties. The range includes seven still wines and two pet-nats – all under the DO Penedès – alongside six organic and biodynamic brut nature cavas. The vineyards are Demeter-certified, while certification for the wines themselves is still underway.
The family belongs to the biodynamic growers’ association Aliances per la Terra and sells part of the crop that is not bottled to other local wineries. Around 80% of Oliver bottles are sold within Catalonia, with exports mainly to the United States, Canada and Sweden.
Sadurní Oliver Sivill, seventh generation, is the winemaker and is gradually taking over the reins, although his parents, Sadurní and Gemma, remain closely involved in the day-to-day running of the estate.
Gemma Gran Reserva is the longest-aged cava in the range and is named after Sadurní’s mother. It is a blend of 50% Xarel·lo, 35% Macabeo and 15% Chardonnay, aged for a minimum of 45 months. The current 2021 release shows a well-integrated mousse and an open, expressive nose, with notes of fine lees, brioche and a gentle spicy character. The palate offers a good balance between acidity and volume, with a creamy texture and a persistent finish.
The price adds to its appeal, particularly at this time of year, after all that festive spending. For under €20, it delivers a level of depth and enjoyment that comfortably exceeds expectations.
2,800 bottles
12% vol.
€17
92 points
Author
Yolanda Ortiz de Arri
A journalist with over 25 years' experience in national and international media. WSET3, wine educator and translator
