Cava Meeting seeks the game-changer that will elevate cava’s image

The second edition of Cava Meeting, held in Avinyonet del Penedès next to the Iberian archaeological site of La Font de la Canya (7th century BC), set out this year to focus its message on Cavas de Guarda Superior, those with more than 18 months’ ageing. To this end, it organised an open-air tasting showroom overlooking Montserrat, featuring wines from 65 DO Cava wineries, alongside talks, panel discussions and tastings dedicated to the appellation’s top tier wines.

Over one hundred communicators, sommeliers and international experts attended the sunny yet crisp day in Penedès, including several Masters of Wine and Master Sommeliers such as Roberto Durán. Together with Sarah Jane Evans, they led a tasting of a dozen terroir-focused, extended ageing cavas. Highlights included the wonderfully elegant Basagues 2010 from Parés Baltà and Codorníu El Tros Nou 2011, as well as the distinctive Vilarnau Gran Reserva 2016, fermented in chestnut.

Meanwhile, sparkling wine specialist Essi Avellan MW and journalist Ramón Francàs devoted their session to cavas aged for more than 100 months, with standouts like Mestres Mas Vía Cavateca 2005, from an estate that celebrates its centenary this year, and the remarkably good-value Cava Guilera Agosarat Gran Reserva 2006 (under €50).

Another engaging session —refreshingly removed from the self-referential focus that often dominates such events— paired sparkling wines with sherries. Attendees had the chance to taste three cavas and three biologically aged wines from the Sherry Triangle, presented by Ferran Centelles and Robert Tetas, sommelier at Sobretablas restaurant in Seville. The tasting was accompanied by three different cuts of Ibérico ham —maza, punta and babilla— explained by Albert Tomás, CEO of Jamonerías Enrique Tomás.

Talks on taste, sensory stimuli and Franciacorta

On the more educational front, the lively and thought-provoking presentation by Charles Zuker, professor of biochemistry, molecular biophysics and neuroscience at Columbia University (USA), explored how the sense of taste works and how the brain transforms sensory signals into perceptions and behaviours, processes that can even be manipulated. Neurobiologist Gabriel Lepousez, whose contribution to a geosensory tasting session at Gramona we covered a few months ago, examined the role of CO₂ as a multisensory molecule capable of stimulating all the senses.

Cristina Mercuri, founder of Mercuri Wine Club (Italy), outlined the evolution of Franciacorta, a region that has raised both its quality and its prices thanks to new zoning based on soil and microclimate differences. Finally, Pere Pons Mercadé, professor at Rovira i Virgili University and winemaker at Cava Miquel Pons, detailed the processes that take place during cava ageing and how they manifest organoleptically.

Diverse messages and goals

The panel “The business of cava”, moderated by María Naranjo, director of the Food and Drink Industry division at ICEX, once again addressed the persistent problem of cava’s image as a supermarket wine. “The message of quality cava still hasn’t sunk in, and changing perceptions is difficult,” said Harriet Kininmonth, buyer at The Wine Society. “The quality of cava is there, but we need more stories to convey the message better.”

In the same vein, Xavier Ybargüengoitia, former managing director of Moët Chandon in Spain, stressed the need for clarity. “Prosecco’s success lies in offering something different, whereas cava has tried to imitate Champagne but at a lower price. For producers, it’s essential to define a long-term vision and build a brand, avoiding mixed messages.”

Meanwhile, the round table with producers, titled “Is DO Cava just a business or also a responsibility?”, ably moderated by Pedro Ballesteros MW, was initially planned as a single session but was ultimately split into two. The decision likely resulted in greater political correctness but also meant a missed opportunity for genuine debate and divergent viewpoints. It may also have left little room for incisive questions, such as the report published in El Economista about the alleged interest of García-Carrión in buying Codorníu, which has been up for sale since the start of the year.

The first session brought together six wineries that account for 90% of cava production —cooperative Castell d’Or, García Carrión, Freixenet, Codorníu, Pere Ventura and Vallformosa. Their representatives reflected on pricing (“we have the quality of Champagne but at a better price,” said Jorge Amell of Castell d’Or), consumption (“consumers want accessible quality, and cava delivers it,” noted Sergio Fuster of Codorníu), volume (“cava has a great future: selling more bottles is the best possible scenario,” said Luciano García-Carrión), and the need to move in the same direction (“we must explain what unites us and tell our story better,” insisted Marta Vidal of Vallformosa). DO Cava president Javier Pagés, ever conciliatory, echoed this message both here and in the small-producers’ panel. Aside from Pere Guilera, who lamented the absence of grape growers at Cava Meeting, the remaining producers on stage (Mestres, Pinord, Alta Alella and Parés Baltà) focused on sustainability, differentiation and added value.

The first day of the international gathering concluded with a dinner prepared by El Celler de Can Roca and the presentation of awards recognising individuals who have helped “enhance cava’s image of prestige and excellence around the world”. The winners were Marta Torné of Caves Torné i Bel (Young Talent), the José Andrés Group (Hospitality), Josep Roca (Sommelier), Celler Mestres (Historic Winery) and Josep Buján, retired winemaker at Freixenet (Lifetime Achievement).

Cava Meeting wrapped up the following day with visits by attendees, split into groups, to 25 wineries across the appellation.