Located in San Martín de Valdeiglesias (DO Vinos de Madrid), Bernabeleva is one of the benchmark producers in Sierra de Gredos. The estate was among the pioneers responsible for the revival of Garnacha in the region and has consistently delievered quality over the years. Alongside its reds, the winery has also distinguished itself through the exploration of Gredos’ white grape varieties.
The dry and sweet Moscatel-based wines under the Cantocuerdas brand are a good example, but equally noteworthy is the work with Garnacha Blanca. As a colour mutation of Garnacha Tinta, this variety would once have played a more significant role in the region than it does today. In fact, as recently as 1990, when DO Vinos de Madrid was established, it was estimated that 304 hectares of Garnacha Blanca were grown across Madrid province.
Since the 2015 vintage, Bernabeleva has produced Manchomuelas from a Garnacha Blanca plot planted on the eponymous site in 2008. The vineyard lies at over 700 m elevation on the region's quintessential granitic soils.
We tasted the wine at the latest Conectando Gredos, a wine festival organised by DO Cebreros, which showcases wineries from across the Sierra de Gredos, including wineries from neighbouring appellations and growers who work outside any appellation.
Speaking at the event, owner Juan Díez Bulnes explained that Garnacha Blanca, which has only recently been authorised by DO Vinos de Madrid, has a notably longer growing cycle than Albillo Real. It is typically harvested in mid-September, almost a month later than the region's dominant white grape variety.
Produced in very limited quantities, Manchomuelas is fermented and aged in seasoned 500-litre barrels, a deliberate choice to ensure that oak remains in the background. The wine displays many of the variety's typical aromas, such as white fruit, floral notes and Mediterranean herbs. On the palate, however, it is less rich and structured than most Garnacha Blanca from the Ebro Valley, showing instead a more refreshing acidity than one might expect from Gredos.
Given its limited production, Manchomuelas remains reasonably priced and offers an enjoyable experience for curious drinkers willing to try something new. It also brings new nuances to our ongoing exploration of this variety.
13% abv.
850 bottles
€23
Score: 93
Author
Amaya Cervera
A wine journalist with almost 30 years' experience, she is the founder of the award-winning Spanish Wine Lover website. In 2023, she won the National Gastronomy Award for Gastronomic Communication
