Terroir Sense Fronteres Brisat 2022 White

There is growing enthusiasm for white wines in Spanish regions traditionally associated with red wine production. Despite the limited vineyard area dedicated to white grape varieties, the number of white wines produced in these regions has steadily increased in recent years.

In Priorat, Terroir al Límit exemplifies this trend with three white wines spanning different price points. The range includes Històric (around €20),  briefly fermented with skins and aged in stainless steel tanks; Terra de Cuques (€38), fermented for about five days with whole bunches and aged briefly in concrete; and Pedra de Guix (€70), a more opulent, oxidative-style wine made from destemmed grapes.

Owner Dominik A. Huber told us some time ago that his passion for gastronomy —and the realisation of how well white wines complement food- encouraged him to embark on this path. It’s no surprise, then, that Terroir Sense Fronteres, the project he started in neighbouring DO Montsant in the 2017 vintage, also  includes a white wine in its portfolio.

In this case, skin contact is also involved -a fact highlighted on the label by the Catalan term brisat. The wine is made from 15- to 35-year-old Garnacha Blanca vines planted on sandy and clay soils at elevations of 300 to 350 metres. In Priorat, Terroir al Límit was among the first producers to take an interest in soils other than slate, particularly after discovering Les Manyes: a red clay vineyard at the top of the Montsant mountain. In fact, Terroir Sense Fronteres emerged from the exploration of vineyards close to Les Manyes that lie within the DO Montsant.

Returning to the Terroir Sense Fronteres Brisat, the wine undergoes fermentation with whole bunches for four to six days. It then spends around six months in stainless steel tanks. Despite the relatively short ageing period, the wine develops well in bottle. The extra structure from the skins means it can be paired with dishes of varying consistencies, making it a good companion for a meal from start to finish.

Don't expect an orange wine in the strictest sense, but rather a Mediterranean white with moderate alcohol and subtle use of skins. With notes of dried herbs,  hay and some floral hints, it offers a fresh, beautifully balanced palate —think juiciness and salinity— with firmness provided by the winemaking process. This is the kind of wine that broadens the scope of Mediterranean whites and could encourage new explorations of the category.

12% abv.
€22 
9,000 bottles
Score: 92