Terroir al Límit
Baixa Font, 12. 43737 Torroja del Priorat (Tarragona)
www.terroir-al-limit.com
Launched in the mid-2000, this winery based in Torroja del Priorat revolutionised viticultural practices in this rugged Catalan region and anticipated many winemaking trends. Since then, Terroir al Límit has grown from a small-scale operation producing 10,000 bottles across five wines to a 100,000-bottle bodega, with a braoder range and a new focus on white wines. Terroir al Límit now owns around 20 Ha of vineyards.
The project is the brainchild of South African producer Eben Sadie, maker of Columella, German entrepreneur Dominik A. Huber and local grower Jaume Sabaté. While both Sadie and Huber had previously dabbled in the area, their partnership sparked a fresh vision and a different approach in the cellar.
Drawing inspiration from Burgundy, they classified their wines into a hierarchy: village wines (anticipating the region's official zonification and the vi de la vila category), vi de coster (literally slope wines, akin to premier cru) and vi d'altura, the equivalent of grand cru. The winemaking philosophy focuses on local grape varieties —ideally Garnacha sourced from soils other than slate— harvested relatively early to avoid overripe grapes. Fermentations are done with stems (sometimes removed before completion), and oak use was minimal, favouring large-sized barrels and foudres. However, since the 2021 vintage both fermentation and ageing are carried out in concrete.
Following Sadie’s return to South Africa in 2012 to focus on his domestic projects, Dominik A. Huber has been at the helm of the estate.
The wines
Terroir al Límit’s flagship range starts with Terra de Cuques (around €38 in Spain), available in both red and white versions. The white is a blend of Garnacha Blanca and around 30% Pedro Ximénez, sourced from vineyards on clay and schist soils in La Morera de Montsant. Whole bunches are briefly fermented for five days. The red Terra de Cuques (30,000 bottles) has replaced the former Torroja Vi de Vila as now incorporates grapes for Torroja and neighbouring villages. This cuvée, which is a good introduction to the winery's style, is a blend of 50% Garnacha and Cariñena, with part of the Garnacha grown on clay. Each variety is fermented separately with whole bunches and then blended. The legend on the labels of both Terra de Cuques is vi de terra viva.
The vins de costers range includes two Cariñena-based reds (fewer than 5,000 bottles, retailing around €75): the fresh and herbal Arbossar, from a north-facing vineyard; and the more earthy, mineral Dits del Terra, which still retains the estate’s signature ethereal style. Among the whites, Pedra de Guix (€70) blends equal parts of Pedro Ximénez sourced from El Lloar, Macabeo from Torroja and Garnacha Blanca from Poboleda. The grapes are pressed before fermentation, resulting in a fuller-bodied wine with a slightly oxidative character.
The two top red wines, identified as vi d'altura on the label, are produced from vineyards at elevations of 600 and 800 m, respectively. Les Tosses (€245) is a deep, mineral red with good ageing potential, made from Cariñena grown on slate soils in Torroja del Priorat's highest vineyard. In contrast, Les Manyes (€255) is an ethereal, evocative Garnacha grown on clay soils in one of the highest vineyards in the Montsant mountains, near the Masdeu site.
In 2015, Terroir al Límit launched a new line of regional négociant wines made in the old cooperative premises in Torroja. Grapes are sourced from growers in Priorat's nine historic villages, who are encouraged to adopt organic farming practices. Inspired by La Unión de Tarragona wines, which predate the arrival of the pioneering winemakers in the late 1980s, the labels display the names of the villages. The Històric range includes a white wine (around 11,000 bottles) and a red (30,000 bottles),both priced around €23 in Spain. The red is made with stems, while the white is fermented briefly with skins. Both are then aged for six months in stainless steel tanks.
Every October, Terroir al Límit hhosts its own harvest party where its wines are served along those of visiting wineries from other countries.
Montsant
Sharing a similar philosophy in terms of classification and winemaking techniques, Huber started a second project in Montsant in 2017 under the name Terroir Sense Fronteres, working mainly with sandy and clay soils. The range begins with a Brisado, which is fermented with the skins and made from Garnacha Blanca, and a red made from Garnacha Tinta. In both cases, the grapes are sourced across the DO, and the wines are aged for six months in stainless steel tanks. Around 10,000 bottles of each wine are produced, retailing for about €22 in Spain.
There is also a Vi de Vila Garnacha called Vèrtebra from the village of La Figuera ( fewer than 2,000 bottles, €35), as well as two single-vineyard Garnachas from Els Montalts, a four-hectare vineyard with red clay and gypsum soils at 800 metres elevation, not far from Les Manyes. Guix Vermell (around €290 in Spain) is made from the uppermost part of the vineyard, where the grapes are naturally more concentrated, while Marcenca (€77) comes from the vineyard's most vigorous section. The last three reds are fermented and aged in concrete vats.
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