The Olivares family has become something of an institution in Jumilla thanks to its sweet Monastrell made from old, ungrafted vines, though the estate also produces some remarkable reds and even an interesting Garnacha rosé.
Olivares was also among the first wineries in the DO to highlight the concept of shaded vineyards on its labels. In a region of valleys surrounded by small mountain ranges which receive 3,000 hours of sunshine a year, any shade cast by the mountains is precious, as it can reduce solar radiation by as much as 20%. It is therefore no coincidence that many sites incorporate the word umbría (shade) in their names.
Following Umbrías de la Hoya, a revamped, terroir-driven version of the former Crianza, Olivares has now released Sombroso. This single-vineyard Monastrell comes from a plot that was previously blended into Umbrías de la Hoya, but had always stood out for its distinctive character. This is an early-ripening site on an east-facing slope, set within a small tongue of land nestled between two mountains that provide shade early in the morning and in the afternoon. The plot is planted with 60-year-old ungrafted Monastrell vines.
The plot forms part of the remarkable 210-hectare Hoya de Santa Ana estate in Tobarra, the family's greatest treasure. Located at an elevation of over 800 metres, the estate benefits from marked day-night temperature variations. Its sandy, limestone-rich soils allow half of the vineyard, around 110 hectares, to be planted on ungrafted vines.
Fermentation took place using the submerged cap technique, with a rack placed in the centre of the tank that allows the must to pass through but retains the skins. This favours gentle extraction and reduces the need for pumping over. The wine was then aged in underground concrete tanks to preserve the character of the vineyard and avoid any interference with the expression of the fruit.
Fragrant and distinctly Mediterranean in character, the wine shows notes of liqueur-soaked red fruits (cherry) and aromatic herbs. It feels fresh and fruit-driven with a polished texture that makes it highly approachable, complemented by a subtle earthy touch and good persistence. It flows smoothly without losing weight or depth.
1,348 bottles
14.5% vol.
€20
Score: 92
Author
Amaya Cervera
A wine journalist with almost 30 years' experience, she is the founder of the award-winning Spanish Wine Lover website. In 2023, she won the National Gastronomy Award for Gastronomic Communication
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