Bryan MacRobert is a unique presence in Rioja. A native of South Africa, he settled in the region several years ago and has since built a solid wine business alongside the family of his wife, Clara Canals, winemaker at the state-of-the-art winery Ysios.
MacRobert's approach to Rioja was shaped by his experience in international markets, where wines are often defined by grape variety. He developed a range of single-varietal wines under the Laventura brand, including precise expressions of the white varieties Viura and Malvasía, and the reds Tempranillo and Garnacha.
However, his most special creations are the single-vineyard wines, produced in very limited quantities —fewer than 1,000 bottles— from very old vineyards that he has gradually acquired. Perhaps the best known is Barranco del San Ginés, the first to be released and made from grapes grown in the area of the same name in Laguardia. It has been certified as Viñedo Singular and was labelled accordingly for a time.
Today, however, our focus is on Paraje de la Virgen. This red also comes from a vineyard classified as Viñedo Singular, although this designation doesn’t appear on its label. The 0.7-hectare, west-facing plot was planted in Lanciego (Rioja Alavesa) in 1920 on a gentle slope between 518-550 metres elevation, fairly close to the village. As is common in old vineyards, it is a fiel blend of different grape varieties, which MacRobert puts directly in the bottle: 80% Tempranillo, 5% Garnacha, 5% Graciano, 5% Mazuelo and 5% Viura.
According to MacRobert, this is the wine that best reflects the influence of the nearby mountains among his single-vineyard wines, providing the freshest expression. The winemaking process is deliberately simple: the wine ferments in a small tank with the skins for 10 to 14 days until completion. After pressing, it is transferred to 600-litre oak barrels, where it ages for a year.
This wine has a delicate, refined structure reminiscent of many classic Riojas, supported by tension and acidity rather than powerful tannins. It has an ethereal freshness, with aromas of red fruit, violets, as well as a hint of liquorice. On the palate, crisp red fruit, a refined texture and a vibrant mouthfeel take centre stage.
13.5% abv
666 bottles
€48
Score: 94
Author
Amaya Cervera
A wine journalist with almost 30 years' experience, she is the founder of the award-winning Spanish Wine Lover website. In 2023, she won the National Gastronomy Award for Gastronomic Communication
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