El Veneno Monastrell 2024 Red

The shift in perception of Mediterranean wines, particularly reds, is largely due to the revival of late-ripening varieties with naturally good acidity that make it possible to produce fresher, less structured wines. But where does that leave the dominant grapes of these regions? What role do they play in this changing landscape?

Pepe Mendoza has long challenged the idea that Mediterranean wines must be overly ripe and high in alcohol. His white Moscatel wines from Alicante, with subtle skin contact and ageing in amphora, have shed the heady profiles of the past and emerged as a benchmark in Spain. When it comes to reds, Mendoza has been a strong advocate of Giró, a local type of Garnacha that he and other local producers are reviving in the La Marina region.

That said, his work with Monastrell also deserves attention. It is a variety he has been familiar with since the early days of his career at his parents' winery. Although he is now based in Lliber (La Marina), where he established his own project a few years ago, he still grow around 10 hectares of vines in Villena in Alt Vinalopó. From his highest vineyards there, located next to the mountains, comes El Veneno, which is one of the freshest expressions of Monastrell currently being made in Spain.

It’s a beautifully expressive wine, with remarkable aromatic definition and impeccably judged ripeness. The aromas alternate between exuberant fruit, flowers and Mediterranean herbs (rosemary, thyme and lavender). It is finely balanced on the palate, combining outstanding aromatic complexity, freshness and depth. If wines had seasons, El Veneno would be spring.

Veneno, which translates as 'poison', was the nickname of the vineyard’s former owner, a man apparently not known for his kindness. The story is told on the back label, where Pepe expresses his satisfaction that at least he left behind these remarkable vines.

Technically, the vines are planted in sandy limestone soils. The wine was fermented with around 30% whole bunches and aged for 10 months in 500-litre Allier oak barrels. It is an excellent buy.

13.5% abv. 
12,000 bottles
€26 
Score: 94