El Serbal 2023 Red

To put a wine region on the map, a critical mass of quality-driven winegrowers is required. In Covarrubias, one of the most remarkable and elevated spots in the Arlanza region, this has rarely been the case.

A decade ago, the arrival of French producer Olivier Rivière, alongside the four wine professionals behind Sabinares seemed like the start of a new chapter. However, in the years that followed, Rivière decided to focus on Rioja and Sabinares experienced its own ups and downs. One of its founding partners, wine merchant Luis Martín de la Fuente, went on to found Vinos Sinceros, producing a handful of wines from grapes grown in Covarrubias under the Arlanza DO. He also contributes to the Viñedos Olvidados (Forgotten Vineyards) project set by Ribera del Duero’s Valtravieso.

Against this backdrop of progress and setbacks, it was a pleasant surprise to meet Adrián Alonso, 38, and learn about his new project, El Serbal. Alonso was among the producers invited to Liquid Vins, one of the most interesting parallel events during BWW (Barcelona Wine Week).

A native of Burgos, Alonso never felt drawn to the countryside until his studies in agro-food engineering in Burgos led him to his first work experience in this field. It was at Terracota Ingenieros, in Ribera del Duero, whose partners are behind the Marta Maté winery; he later worked during the harvest as a supervisor for the DO's Regulatory Board. His growing interest in wine led him to pursue a Master in Viticulture and Oenology at the Universidad Politécnica de Madrid, where he crossed paths with Carlos Cerdán of Bodegas Cerrón. He then gained hands-on experience as an intern in various research projects under his professor and viticulture expert, José Ramón Lissarrague.

In 2021, Alonso made a homemade wine from a vineyard in the village of Valdorros in Burgos, where his parents own a house. The following year, after the passing of his sister-in-law's grandfather, he was given the chance to take over his vines in Retuerta, near Covarrubias. Today, some of them go into the fresh and refined red Paraje de la Santa (800 bottles, €35). Soon after, he had the chance to get his hands on some foreclosed plots. "In two years, I have gone from 6,000 m2 to six hectares," explains Alonso, who has rented other plots and taken over vineyards from elderly growers who can no longer look after them.

He divides his time between his project and a role as sales manager for Spain at a Portuguese company specialising in oenological products. He admits he would not be able to manage it all without the help of his father and family.

Most of the vineyards are in Covarrubias, with some prime plots in Retuerta and two leased plots of Garnacha and Pirulés in Quintanilla del Agua, a very different area 13 kilometres downstream along the river Arlanza, where he plans to produce a new wine in 2024. Things have moved fast: he made his first wines in 2022 in a rented space at Palacio de Lerma winery and he now has his own space in Lerma. For the time being, he is working outside the DO.

The best wine to discover the project is El Serbal, a village wine from Covarrubias. The 2023 vintage comes from 13 plots in sites like La Mula or El Amesado. These are old vines planted at over 900 m elevation, often interspersed with cherry and other fruit trees such as rowan (serbal in Spanish). Common in Soria and in this area of Burgos, locals call them jerbal and refer to their apple-like, sandy-textured fruit as jerba.

Tempranillo dominates the blend with 65-70%, and the rest combines Garnacha, Viura, Albillo and other unidentified varieties. The result is a structured red , but without the harsh tannins that are common in the area. With good depth and aromas of ripe wild berries, it stands out for its freshness, balance and pleasant mouthfeel. The label features Covarrubias’ 16th century rollo de la justicia (justice roll), a symbol of the town’s own jurisdiction.

13.5% abv.
3,800 bottles
€27 
Score: 92