“It makes no sense to call a vineyard old just because it turns 35”

Perhaps it was the anticipation surrounding the speakers or the rare opportunity to taste a liquid unicorn, but Old Vines, Beyond Beauty proved to be one of the most popular tastings at Barcelona Wine Week. With eight reds lined up before each attendee, the session set out to spark debate on what truly defines an old vine.

From the outset, moderator Fernando Mora MW mentioned the OIV’s classification, which considers a vineyard to be old once it reaches 35 years of age. The definition was met with scepticism from the speakers. "It makes no sense to call a vineyard old just because it turns 35," argued Raúl Pérez, one of Bierzo’s most influential winemakers. "What really matters is the root system and how it occupies the soil."

Ricard Rofes, winemaker at Scala Dei –the oldest winery in Priorat– echoed Pérez’s sentiment, adding that a vine’s rate of development depends largely on the soil. "The old slate vineyards of Priorat have deeper roots and have endured more hardship than younger ones. With the drought we’ve been facing, we carried out a soil analysis at two metres deep this year –nothing but dust."

Carlos Cerdán of Bodegas Cerrón, who farms over 70 hectares of old vines, many of them ungrafted, steered the discussion towards Jumilla’s extreme conditions, which test both vines and growers alike. "Soil colonisation is slower in clay than in sand, which means a vineyard takes longer to absorb water, nutrients, and truly establish itself. Like people, you can have old vines at 30 and young vines at 60."

Old vs new vines

The tasting added a tangible layer to the discussion. Wines from varying elevations –measured in metres above sea level, though some might argue in scores, quality, or price– were sampled, but the most illustrative contrast came from Rofes’ Garnatxas from the 2023 vintage. Both came from the Masdeu vineyard: one from old vines planted in 1974 (complex and layered, destined for Scala Dei Masdeu 2023), the other from young vines recently replanted in the faults (fresh and expressive, set to become Cartoixa 2023). Both demonstrated that finesse and drinkability need not come at the expense of Mediterranean character, in an era where globalisation often standardises styles.

"Everyone wants to make Burgundy, and that’s going to be a problem," warned Pérez. "Wines used to be made to be enjoyed –now they’re made to be tasted. We’re losing our identity."

While he acknowledged that old vines allow for greater precision in winemaking, he stressed that the real distinction lies not between old and young vines, but in how the vineyard is managed. "The real difference is between a well-managed vineyard and one that isn’t," he stated plainly. He also emphasised the importance of plant material in young vineyards. "Genetic selection used to last 50 years –now it lasts one."

Harvest timing also emerged as a key talking point. "There’s a belief that old vines should be harvested later, but it’s actually the opposite," explained Pérez. "The beauty of an old vine is that you can pick at 9-10% alcohol and still have balance." Rofes agreed, adding: "The harvest window is tighter in an old vineyard –just two or three days. In a young vineyard, you have more flexibility. Old vines bring balance and stability, but that doesn’t necessarily mean they’re better; working well with young vineyards takes more effort."

With his trademark directness, Pérez left the audience with one of the session’s most talked-about comments: "Non-intervention is the greatest intervention." A reminder that viticulture is not just about leaving nature to its own devices, but about understanding its rhythms, forms, and limits.

Bringing the discussion to a close, Fernando Mora left the audience with a message of optimism and pride, earning a round of applause: "The heritage of old vines we have in Spain sets us apart from the rest of the world. Let’s defend intellectual wine." 

Wines in the tasting

1. Garnatxa de Masdeu Viña Joven 2023 (Cellers Scala Dei)
2. Matas Altas 2023 (Bodegas Cerrón)
3. Ultreia Villegas 2022 (Raúl Pérez)
4. Garnatxa de Masdeu Viña Vieja 2023 (Cellers Scala Dei)
5. Supersónico Garnacha 2022 (Frontonio)
6. Los Yesares Pie Franco 2022 (Bodegas Cerrón)
7. Viariz Vino de Altura 2021 (Raúl Pérez)
8. Psicodélico Mezcla de Variedades 2022 (Frontonio)