Zabala de Ostatu Garnacha Blanca 2021 White

With little fanfare, Garnacha Blanca is steadily securing its place in Rioja. Although it still trails Verdejo in terms of vineyard area (251ha of Garnacha Blanca versus 303ha of Verdejo, according to the Regulatory Board’s 2023 report), it has firmly positioned itself as a variety for high-quality wines.

The most significant change in recent years is its evolution from a valued blending component –seen in classic whites such as B de Basilio and Qué Bonito Cacareaba, as well as new standouts like Miguel Merino or Flor de Muga– to a star in its own right, following in the footsteps of pioneers like Abel Mendoza or Bodegas Tierra. Víctor Ausejo, in the Iregua Valley, has even made a name for himself on Garnacha Blanca.

The white wine we are highlighting today, however, comes from a quite different place, an elevated area on the foothills of the Sonsierra mountain range, and is made by Ostatu (Samaniego, Rioja Alavesa). At nearly 700m above sea level, this vineyard pushes the limits of viticulture in a frost-prone area where cold temperatures during flowering can lower yields but also help to pick healthy grapes. Limestone is the dominant soil. Although the vineyard was only planted in 2016, early results are encouraging.

Ostaut aims to capture the site’s freshness and character of the soil by maturing the wine in concrete vats for seven to eight months. The result is not a rich, full-bodied Garnacha Blanca, but a taut, vibrant expression with lively acidity. The nose evolves beautifully, revealing subtle petrol notes and white fruits, while the finish has a chalky edge that will certainly appeal to wine lovers. Priced at just under €18 on the winery's website, it offers good value for money, as do most of Ostatu's single vineyard wines. Zabala is also certified organic.

The winery has extensive experience with white wines, particularly Lore (flower in Basque), a blend of Viura and Malvasía that recently underwent a label redesign for the 2021 vintage to align with the winery’s new single-vineyard range. We tasted the 2015 vintage just days ago and it was in perfect shape.   

1,976 bottles
€18 
Score: 92