Ostatu is a family winery whose roots can be traced back to several generations devoted to grape growing. It is a fitting example of the past and present of Rioja Alavesa, the subarea within the DO Rioja which belongs to the Basque Country.
In 1970, Doroteo Sáenz de Samaniego started bottling cosechero wines, a sort of Spanish Beaujolais which is a trademark of this area. At the onset of the 21st century, four of his six children took the reins of the family business and developed wines suitable for ageing, notwithstanding their young carbonic maceration which continues to be among the most prominent in this style.
The winery owns 36 hectares of land under vine spread across several Rioja Alavesa villages, namely Samaniego, Leza and Laguardia. Tempranillo dominates but they also grow Graciano, Mazuelo and Garnacha, all of which add freshness to the wines. Ostatu also buys grapes from three growers in Samaniego to make a total 70 hectares which translates into roughly 350,000 bottles. The winery is shifting to organic farming and encouraging their suppliers to follow suit.
The wines
Their young carbonic maceration red -fresh, fruity, clean and pleasant on the palate- offers excellent value (around €6,5, 150,000 bottles) whereas the fresh, fruit-driven and lively Crianza (around €10, 80,000 bottles) has a singular personality derived from the addition of 20-30% carbonic maceration wine in the blend. They also produce a Reserva and a Gran Reserva.
In recent years, there has been a strong focus on single-vineyard wines. This range includes two whites and three reds. The oak-fermented white, Lore de Ostatu (€19), comes from a north-facing vineyard in the Valcavada area of Laguardia, planted mainly with Viura and a good number of Malvasía vines. In contrast, Zabala de Ostatu (€18) is a limited-production Garnacha Blanca.
The two fruit-driven, approachable Tempranillos (fewer than 5,000 bottles, €13.5 in Spain) offer distinct characteristics. Escobal comes from a plot with high limestone content, while Valdepedro is crafted without added sulphites. Finally, Menditto (€18) comes from a 50-year-old, wind-exposed vineyard in Samaniego, planted with Tempranillo and some Graciano.
The “singular wines” range includes Laderas de Ostatu (around €31), a single vineyard red from El Portillo, a plot that stands at a high elevation. In this wine, mineral notes blend with the vibrant fruit that characterises this winery. And Gloria de Ostatu (around €43), a red that needs further development in the bottle, comes from Revillas, the oldest vineyard in the estate with clay-dominant soils.
In 2013 they set aside a few barrels of their white which were finally bottled as Ostatu Gran Reserva.
The winery, built around an old roadside inn (ostatu means inn in Basque), offers numerous tasting activities and corporate events. It has built a circle of friends around the so called Txoko Ostatu, a concept derived from the famous Basque gastronomical societies which are restricted to groups of friends who get together to cook, eat and socialize. The wine bar has access to a small, charming patio perfect for stopping by and relaxing while touring Rioja Alavesa.