Wim Vanleuven: Three decades of bringing Spain’s finest wines to Belgium

The founder of the wine import company La Buena Vida has arguably done more than anyone else to promote high-quality Spanish wines and raise awareness of them in Belgium. Trained as a lawyer, Wim Vanleuven (born in 1970) grew up in the Kempen region of Antwerp, in the Flemish part of the country. His father kept a modest cellar, stocked mainly with Bordeaux and Burgundy wines —“the most daring thing at the time was a wine from the Rhône or Languedoc”— and Wim would often accompany him to tastings.

Thanks to an Erasmus scholarship in Barcelona, he met a number of producers whose wines would go on to redefine the Spanish wine scene. In 2003, he strengthened his ties with Spain by marrying María Jané of the Jané Ventura winery in Penedès. Today, he and his partner Johan Sterckx —voted best sommelier in Belgium in 1997— manage a portfolio of 85 producers. Notably, their selection is not dominated by classic wineries and renowned regions such as Rioja or Ribera del Duero.

Vanleuven sends three weekly emails to his clients, explaining various aspects of Spanish wine. More recently, he has started sharing these insights on Instagram through short videos (in Flemish). He is also restoring a traditional farmhouse in El Pla de Manlleu, one of the most elevated areas in Penedès,  in the province of Tarragona, with the aim of turning it into a meeting place for small, local producers.
In this interview, he explains how he built a successful business from scratch by representing many of the producers who transformed Spain’s image abroad. He also shares his views on the country’s wine evolution and offers an optimistic outlook on the challenges  ahead.

How did your journey with Spanish wine begin?
It was really a series of coincidences. While studying for my Erasmus in Barcelona, I started dating a girl from Rioja who was studying management. I travelled with her to the region, where her father took me to visit several wineries. To stay on good terms, I’d say that I liked the wines, even though I didn't, really. I was used to drinking French wines, perhaps not the best, but certainly of a higher quality than what was available in Spain at the time. Most bottled wines came from Rioja; Ribera del Duero was just taking off; and Penedès was very commercial. There was not much choice.

While today almost all wines are technically sound, in the 1970s Spain prioritised volume over quality. In contrast, the Italians chose to increase prices. Now, some classic Rioja producers are employing the same strategy, having notably improved their quality. Viña Ardanza\'s price hike is a perfect example.

It seems risky to start a wine business by turning your back on Rioja
Yes, but at that time I heard about what was going on in Priorat. It really piqued my interest, so I visited the area. I was only 22, and not everyone made time for me, but Carles Pastrana of Clos de l'Obac certainly did. When I finished my final year of law school, I decided to start importing Spanish wines. I set up La Buena Vida on 31 August 1994. By September, I had secured a job at the Cuatrecasas law firm in Barcelona, and my Rioja girlfriend and I moved into a flat in the Paralelo district.

For a short while, I had a Rioja made by Miguel Ángel de Gregorio called Herencia Lasanta, but you could say I really started with Clos de l'Obac [Priorat] and Albet i Noya [Penedès]. Josep Maria and Toni had  been working organically since the 1970s and by that time had already launched their Collection range. Next came Barbara Forés [Terra Alta] and Avgvstvs [Penedès], and the portfolio kept growing until it included 24 wineries, although sales were modest.

Wine cases were stacked up at my parents' house, somewhere between my bedroom and the garage. Initially, it was easy enough to sell to family and friends, but eventually things became more complicated. I decided to return to Belgium, where I could earn more money as a lawyer while continuing to develop the business . I’d meet sommeliers to taste wines after their shift ended . I no longer had a girlfriend, so I had more time on my hands. At such a young age, you don't mind working all hours.

Was it difficult to introduce Spanish wines to the Belgian market, and to gain access to good restaurants?
In 1994, nobody expected to pay more than 1,000 Belgian francs (about €25 today) for a Spanish wine. I was incredibly naïve. I didn\'t know the market, but that's often how things work out, albeit with a lot of hard work behind the scenes. My strategy was to approach the best sommeliers and catch their interest by telling them that I had new and interesting wines. That's how I met my business partner, Johan Sterckx. When he joined the business in 1997, many doors opened for us.

That said, Belgium has no shortage of wine importers. Anyone who takes a wine course is tempted to import a pallet of wine. Most of them focus on price, but I have never believed in supermarket-style strategies. I look for the best producers in each area, regardless of price. Sommeliers are drawn to top wines, and that is what I, perhaps naively and enthusiastically, offered them. I believe that kind of early ingenuity is crucial for any entrepreneur.

From your perspective, what have been the main changes in Spanish wine since then? 
A pivotal moment for me came in 2004 with the creation of our second company, La Buena Tierra, together with my wife María. She was looking for a professional role in Belgium, and the philosophy was the same as with wine: to source the best Spanish produce from each region. At the time, Ferran Adrià and the Roca family were already internationally acclaimed and we decided to import some of the things that they were doing: the textures in the case of El Bulli and the Roca brother's roner for low-temperature cooking. Thanks to the success of molecular cuisine, for the first time in 15 years, chefs began to take us seriously and to see beyond “those nice little Spanish wines.” Adrià and the Rocas  changed the narrative. From then on, it became much easier to introduce Spanish wines in Belgium.

How has the positioning of Spanish wine changed over the years? Is there a significant difference in quality between supermarket wines and premium ranges?
In my opinion, it is important that good Spanish wines are sold in supermarkets. If a consumer buys a good bottle, chances are they will buy it again. This was much more problematic in the past. Technically speaking, the last 15 years have seen a giant leap forward.

Over the past decade, the culture of wine has developed significantly in Spain. A producer may have all the necessary equipment, but without knowing what makes a wine truly good, they won’t succeed. The younger generation is much more knowledgeable than their predecessors. Rioja, for example, remained unchanged for almost 15 years. Nothing happened. However, the past few years have been terrific, providing us with some much-needed oxygen during the pandemic. Our turnover dropped by 80% due to restaurant closures, but then all these exciting new wines emerged. And we expanded our portfolio with around 20 new wineries.

How does the Belgian wine market differ from neighbouring countries? Is Belgium a trendsetter in any way?
Wine collecting is becoming increasingly popular here. With the Bordeaux crisis and the rising prices in Burgundy, people who used to focus on  these regions are now turning their attention to Spanish wine.

Collectors are also taking notice of Atlantic wines from Spain. Specifically, I am referring to the Canary Islands and Galicia. Spain is still most commonly associated with Tempranillo, a sweet, low-acidity grape that tends to please most palates. However, wine enthusiasts who lean towards fresher styles are now seeking out this Atlantic identity.

Mencía is a tricky grape variety —it has low acidity and can overripen easily. However, we are fortunate to work with the two leading producers from the outset: Descendientes de J. Palacios and Raúl Pérez. We also work with Pérez's family winery, Castro Ventosa, currently managed by Raúl's nephew, César Márquez. I’ve recently opened bottles of Valtuille from 2001, 2003 and 2004, all still in perfect condition. The same goes for the first wines made by Ricardo Pérez Palacios 25 years ago.

Which producers or regions do you think best represent the cultural changes taking place in Spain?
Personally, I’ve found Envínate the most exciting in recent years, particularly their wines from Galicia and Tenerife. They are quite alternative,  but there’s still something classical about them, and their wine culture is extensive compared to other producers. They are a good example of what can be achieved. From a commercial point of view, their wines are fantastic —some may seem unusual, but they are easy to sell and are not expensive considering their quality. Envínate epitomises this new generation perfectly.

As for wine regions, I tend to gravitate towards Atlantic and volcanic wines because my taste has evolved over the past 20 years. That said, I still enjoy a 25-year-old Rioja such as Roda I. It depends on the occasion —I'm very eclectic! Only 20% of the wines in my cellar are Spanish. You could say I’m my colleagues’ best customer —I just wish the reverse were true!  While they mainly buy Vega Sicilia and Pingus, I probably own Belgium's largest collection of Barolos.

How can this be reversed?
I think that Spain is the country with the largest potential and diversity. And wine culture, which is the key to unlocking this potential, is growing. Spain is in an extraordinary position, and this is only the beginning. I used to think our  turnover would top out at €8m, but considering how things are evolving, I now believe we can reach €20m. The market is getting bigger and bigger for us.

Big names like Pingus and Vega Sicilia continue to sell well —Belgium is Vega Sicilia\'s fourth-largest importer worldwide. What we lack are brands. The Italians and the French are way ahead of us in this respect, but we will catch up eventually.

It is refreshing to hear such optimism in the current context of uncertainty
Commercial affairs are becoming increasingly complicated and the hospitality industry is performing poorly. However, Spain is the EU country in the best financial position. Additionally, wine collectors have suffered substantial losses on the stock market as a result of Trump\'s policies. Many businesses are going to close because, no matter how passionate their owners are, they lack commercial viability. We are constantly seeking brand turnover and steady sales over time. The downside now is that Spanish wine prices are catching up with those of other countries. In the past, all the good wines were relatively cheap.

Do you think the new classifications and zonings help to sell premium wines, or do they confuse consumers?
It will take many more years than expected for the classifications to gain traction. The average distributor prefers to follow market trends. We are committed to branding because people want reassurance and reliable products.

The way things are explained to customers is key. As ambassadors for Spanish producers in Belgium, our mission is to sell more wine. Alongside Rioja and Bierzo, we want to see wines from all the villages in Priorat and the premier crus on wine lists, as well as a San Vicente wine from José Gil or the Paso Las Mañas single-vineyard wine from Artuke. This will take years, but it is the future.

This also requires more visits and samples. Only by opening bottles will people begin to understand the differences between villages. While identifying plots and villages is great fun for wine aficionados, for us it means more work and investment.
 
How is Spain doing on wine lists compared to Europe's leading producers?
It depends on the restaurant and the sommeliers, but generally speaking, we're doing well. For over 15 years, virtually all the Spanish wines in Belgian restaurants were ours, but the selection is much more diverse now. This means that other importers are bringing in good producers, and collectively, we can increase the presence of Spanish wines.

Some young sommeliers are now reluctant to list Bordeaux wines. Nevertheless, the best-selling Spanish wines are still powerful reds, particularly Tempranillos from Ribera del Duero. There is a discrepancy between what’s trendy and what actually sells. 

Have Belgian consumers changed their preferences when it comes to Spanish wine? Are they showing any interest in emerging wine regions?
Things are changing, but we are still at the beginning of the journey. A sommelier who does not know his job well thinks that Spain is all about power, sun and concentration, and is unaware that we have been offering elegant, fresh and characterful wines for years.

Our best-selling wine right now is Joan d'Anguera's Les Maiols from Montsant. This light red, almost like a rosé, embodies the new Mediterranean style. It is inspired by Château Rayas and based on the idea that the future lies in the past.

Is the search for freshness carried too far nowadays?
It's a common mistake among that many young people. If you harvest very early in the Mediterranean, you’ll get a fresh wine, but it will taste green. I don't care about the alcohol content; the important thing is that the wine tastes fresh. Some of the new generations of whites are unripe, and that is a mistake. Fully ripe grapes can yield fresh, bright wines, which is what the Anguera brothers advocate: wines that you can easily drink a whole bottle of. Compared to the concentration of the past, they now have lower yields and produce far fewer bottles.

How has La Buena Vida's portfolio evolved? Which regions or styles interest you most today?
Due to my marriage and my beginnings in Barcelona, we have a strong focus on Catalan wines. It may sound odd, but Tempranillo has never really been my thing. I have always been attracted to Galicia and Catalonia because of their diversity. However, we also work with producers from Ribera and Rioja. I have always been reluctant to work with classic wineries, but I have recently developed a real fondness for La Rioja Alta, so never say never.

In Rioja, we have worked with Roda since their first vintage, and later with Remírez de Ganuza —both were major trailblazers in their time. Abel Mendoza has always been my favourite producer due to his size, but I also learnt a great deal from Agustín Santolaya and Fernando Remírez de Ganuza. About 10 years ago, we introduced Macán and Artuke, and more recently José Gil —since his second vintage. I really like what he is doing. We are also working well with Alegre & Valgañón.

 
Has the break-up of DO Cava had an impact in a country that drinks so much sparkling wine?
The Spanish sparkling wine market in Belgium is dead. Most of what we get here is cheap cava. When I first started out in the trade, a €10 cava was considered cheap; nowadays, that’s seen as expensive. Furthermore, taxes have increased so we cannot compete with the Netherlands, where duties have been reduced. Our average bottle price this year is €40. Customers prefer champagne because it carries more prestige. I find this terribly frustrating, but that's the way things are.

What are the most important challenges for Spanish wine in the current tough international scenario?
Produce less. Produce better. Many winemakers, including promising newcomers, are going to be forced out of business. It's a shame that their naivety is not always on the right track. You can only afford to be naive if you also travel and work a lot.

Would you venture any predictions for the future?
I think there are going to be more and more white wines. Everyone in Rioja and Ribera is  obsessed with whites now. There will also be more wines that reflect their terroir. Producing Atlantic-style wines in a Mediterranean or continental region is no longer an option. Balance and respect for the territory are absolutely crucial.