Spain has been hit by scorching temperatures, well above average for this time of year. Our favourite style to soak up the relaxed summer vibe —perhaps the ultimate beach wine— is with single-fermentation sparkling wines. In Spain, we have our own word for them: ancestral though the internationally recognised term now widely used on local labels is pet nat.
As this category gains traction beyond traditional sparkling wine regions, it brings with it a welcome diversity, in both grape varieties and styles (e.g. shorter or longer ageing periods, with or without disgorgement). Click here to find out more about these wines.
This week, we recommend a Moscatel de Grano Menudo (Muscat à Petits Grains) pet nat from Manchuela in Cuenca, southeast Spain. It is made by Altolandon, whose vineyards lie at an elevation of 1,100 metres on a plateau surrounded by mountains.
Along with Bobal and Garnacha, Moscatel was one of the grape varieties that Rosalía Molina and her husband, Manolo Garrote, discovered in Landete when they embarked on their winemaking venture in the early 2000s. Although they later introduced international grape varieties that adapted well to their high-elevation vineyards, such as Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Manseng and Albariño, they continued to plant the original local varieties. The elevation has a strong influence on all their wines, resulting in bright acidity and moderate alcohol levels.
The base wine for Con Altura is the dry Moscatel Doña Leo. However, instead of completing fermentation in a tank, this process occurs in bottle. After a couple of days of cold maceration on the skins, the wine is aged in the bottle for a few months and disgorged before release. It is therefore totally natural. Like everything else made at this winery, it also bears the organic seal, as the winery has held the organic certification since 2002.
As with most pet nats, this wine is hazy, with the grape variety clearly expressed though here it takes on a more untamed character, with notes of herbs, white and stone fruit, and maceration notes. This fresh, light wine is aromatic with pleasant bitter undertones on the finish that cleanse the palate. It is easy to drink and serve thanks to the crown cap.
As with most Altolandon wines, Con Altura is easier to find outside Spain, with 70% of the winery’s production destined for export. In the UK, where Altolandón has a strong presence, the wine is distributed by Alliance Wines.
12.5% abv.
5,000 bottles
€16
Score: 90
Author
Amaya Cervera
A wine journalist with almost 30 years' experience, she is the founder of the award-winning Spanish Wine Lover website. In 2023, she won the National Gastronomy Award for Gastronomic Communication
