Three new releases defining the trends in Spanish wine

In recent weeks, we have tasted three new premium wines that are not only interesting and commendable, but in their own way represent the consolidation of emerging trends.

Traditional vineyards: El Camino 

At this point, few would argue that a vineyard is inherently superior because of its age. The value of old vineyards is measured by several factors: their location, –often found on poor soils suitable for vine growing–; their deeply established root systems which make them more resilient (although this hasn't been enough in areas of Catalonia suffering from severe, prolonged drought); the diversity of plant material and, in general, their ability to produce wines of depth. The visual appeal of these sites is also a selling point. A small plot of twisted vines framed by stone walls and woodland is undoubtedly more appealing than the regimented rows of a trellised vineyard stretching endlessly into the horizon.

Towards the end of last year, La Rioja Alta group hosted a press lunch to unveil El Camino 2021, their first wine made entirely from what they call "artisan vineyards". These comprise approximately 60 hectares of traditional old vines, spread across 150 plots that they have acquired since 2021 in several villages of Rioja Alavesa, such as Elvillar, Kripan, Laguardia, Lanciego and Navaridas. They are all part of Torre de Oña, the group’s Rioja Alavesa winery in Páganos (Laguardia).

"We have faced criticism for buying artisanal vineyards," admitted Guillermo Aranzábal, president of La Rioja Alta. From his perspective, the only way to preserve this heritage is "to pay €2.5 per kilo, which nobody does, to rent the vineyards and work them ourselves, or to buy them outright". Aranzábal fears many of these plots will eventually disappear. The winery reportedly paid between €90,000 and €95,000 per hectare.

This acquisition marks a significant step for La Rioja Alta, a group that has been actively investing in vineyards –albeit on a larger scale– in recent years. Their holdings in Rioja alone have grown from 192 ha in the late 1980s to nearly 590 ha today, a figure that rises to 925 ha when including their estates in Ribera del Duero and Rías Baixas.

The purchase of these traditional vineyards has sparked a small revolution at Torre de Oña. The château-like winery, surrounded by vineyards, has undergone several changes over the years. In 2012, it released Martelo, a refined Reserva made from the estate's best plots, which pointed to a new path for Rioja wines –eschewing the clichés of classicism and modernity. The big news is that from the 2021 vintage, set to be released in the spring, Martelo will no longer be an estate wine but will instead incorporate some of those artisan vineyards, particularly those at higher elevation.

The production process has evolved as well. The blend of varieties grown on these old plots will be co-fermented in the style of a field blend, with some ageing done in 500-litre casks. While Martelo will remain a Reserva, the front label will no longer display the term. Winemaker Julio Saénz admits that they are focusing on developing a conceptual wine rather than adhering to a fixed winemaking "recipe". 

The transformation extends to Torre de Oña and its vineyards. Over the next three years, 34ha not destined for Martelo will be replanted, switching from trellis to goblet-pruned vines, increasing vine density and implementing the keyline system, which respects the topography of the land and optimises water resources.

The ultimate goal is to obtain higher quality grapes capable of producing wines with added value –a principle that underpins all of La Rioja Alta’s recent releases: Martelo itself, Ribera del Duero reds Finca El Otero and El Espino, and Lindeiros, in Rías Baixas.

El Camino 2021 is an important milestone for the group’s move towards premiumisation. Set for release in the spring, it is made from three traditional plots in El Pisón, Las Navas and La Revilla, all sites located in Elvillar. Tempranillo (97%) is the dominant variety, with small amounts of Mazuelo, Garnacha and Viura. The soils mix limestone and silt loam.

Fermentation took place in stainless steel tanks and the wine was aged in 500-litre French oak barrels, a turning point for the bodega. Accordingly, it will be sold as a generic red with the name El Camino symbolising the group’s journey and pursuit of excellence. 

With a limited production (3,680 bottles) and an ambitious price tag (120-130 €), El Camino meets the expectations of a premium single-vineyard Rioja Alavesa red. It has depth and intense aromas of flowers, red and blue berries, along with a pleasant wild character (mountain herbs). The palate is broad yet refined, with fine tannins, length and good potential for bottle ageing.

The underlying philosophy, however, contrasts with that of terroir-driven producers in the Sonsierra, as the emphasis here is on the brand rather than individual village or site names.

Adding a unique flourish, each bottle is adorned with a small piece of vine shoot from the original vineyards. While this touch reinforces the artisanal ethos, it poses challenges for transport and storage due to the delicate, hand-glued packaging.

The wine benefits from the excellent qualities of the 2021 vintage in Rioja. For those who can't afford El Camino, Martelo 2021 offers a more accessible alternative, showcasing this vintage's extra silky, crisp texture.

The new Mediterranean freshness: Ferrero i Senís La Pebrella

Located in Moixent, in the Clariano sub-region of Valencia, Celler del Roure is a ground-breaking winery that perfectly encapsulates the evolution of Spanish Mediterranean wines in recent years. It also exemplifies a promising future in terms of both style and market positioning.

Pablo Calatayud tells the whole story in a presentation letter for Ferrero i Senís La Pebrella 2023, a wine that owes its existence to the winery’s evolution. Many of the stages leading up to this point were outlined in an article published in SWL in 2017. In his letter, Calatayud introduces the idea of “collections,” a framework that reflects the winery’s journey of exploration. 

The first collection includes Maduresa and Les Alcusses, the first releases from Celler del Roure, which Calatayud considers “classic.” While these reds are now made with Monastrell and Cariñena, the original wines featured significant amounts of Tempranillo, Cabernet and Merlot, with just a hint of Mandó.

The second collection, which he calls the "old wines" (Safrà, Parotet, Vermell), was the most innovative. It involved the recovery of overlooked, late-ripening local varieties, especially Mandó, a grape capable of producing a different style of red wine, with higher acidity, lively fruit and less structure. The discovery of an underground cellar equipped with old tinajas (earthenware jars) for ageing reinforced this fact. Calatayud's "third collection" includes two Mandó rosés: the still wine Les Prunes and the pet-nat Les Danses, with an even fresher expression that confirms the versatility of this variety.

The fourth collection, however, takes a different direction, introducing new criteria and grape varieties. Ferrero i Senís La Pebrella 2023 is made from Arcos and Forcallà, two ancient, late-ripening varieties local red varieties that had largerly been forgotten after the phylloxera plague. Arcos was recovered a few years ago by Fil.loxera y Cía, a producer from the nearby village of Fontanars. Both varieties are grown on two plots of land with chalky subsoil. Whole clusters are fermented in the stone presses of the old winery and, like the Mandós, aged in tinajas complemented by glass demijohns.

This light-coloured red offers distinctive aromas from whole cluster fermentation, reminiscent of a vin de soif, but with greater intensity and an expressive character of pepper and herbs. The palate surprises with unexpected depth and structure. It is vibrant, with a crisp texture and a sweet fruit core that quickly gives way to a bitter, herbal finish evoking the complexity of vermouth or even some Italian wines. Overall spicy and long. It will be very interesting to see how it evolves over the next five years or more - we don't yet have much experience of how this style of wines ages.

With a moderate alcohol content (12.5% abv) and 4,300 bottles filled, Ferrero i Senís La Pebrella 2023 costs a very reasonable price (€33) –a hallmark of Celler del Roure, known for offering some of the best value wines in Spain. The label was designed by Dani Nebot, continuing his long association with the bodega. The name honours the team behind the wine: vineyard manager Vicent Ferrero and winemaker Paco Senís. Pebrella is a local wild thyme.

The unstoppable rise of white Rioja: Faustino I Gran Reserva

We have been recommending Rioja whites for many years, celebrating their diversity,  the reliability of their finest examples, their versatility in food pairings and their remarkable ability to age gracefully . The growing interest in white Rioja is evident,  with an increasing number of producers, who were once focused solely on reds now turning their attention to whites. Names such as Contino, Muga and Roda have ventured into premium white wine production. Now, it is Faustino's turn.

Faustino, often  regarded with scepticism by wine connoisseurs due to its size and ubiquity on supermarket shelves, has released a white companion to its renowned Faustino I Gran Reserva (€20-22 in Spain). This red has been known for performing surprisingly well in good vintages, as we recently experienced first-hand. As the market leader in Rioja’s red Gran Reserva category  -selling one in every three bottles- it seems only logical for Faustino to step into the premium white category, particularly at a time when demand for these wines is high.

The Faustino Gran Reserva white began to take shape in 2017, inspired by the good evolution of Campillo's barrel-fermented white, made at the group's winery in Laguardia, and the ageing potential of  Viura and Chardonnay, which are used to make its cava. Interestingly, as fas as we know, Faustino is the first winery in Rioja to incorporate a significant proportion of Chardonnay (50%) in a premium white wine.

Faustino's Chardonnay plantings date back to the 1980s, even before the variety was authorised in Rioja. At the time, the vines were planted  in vineyards registered as DO Cava. Today, all the Chardonnay and most of the Viura destined for the Gran Reserva are grown in their own vineyards in Mendavia, in the Navarra region within the DOCa. Rioja. With a north-south exposure and clay-limestone soils, the vines lie at  400-450m elevation with yields capped at 5,500 kg/ha. Faustino grows 20 hectares of Chardonnay, with an average age of 40 years, and 65 hectares of Viura, split between Mendavia (35 hectares) and  Oyón (30 hectares), with an average age of 35 years.

“We make white wines and cava from these two varieties, experimenting with different blends, picking times and vinification methods,” explains winemaker Juan José Díez. The decision to include an international grape was never a problem, on the contrary. “We saw it as a way to open some doors  internationally, and it's paying off,” says Díez, who recently returned from  the United States, where the wine has been well received. But he is not ruling out future changes. “We might introduce Garnacha Blanca, Maturana Blanca or Tempranillo Blanco. We are experimenting and looking at their ageing potential . Our white Gran Reserva is not a 'recipe' wine,” he explains, adding  that pH is the key factor in selecting the grapes to achieve the required acidity and ensuring the alcohol content does not exceed 13% abv.

The winemaking is far from traditional . The wine benefits from state-of-the-art technology, particularly the wine presses and the boreal system, which uses CO2 injection for continuous cooling - especially helpful in warm vintages like 2023. The wine is fermented in a combination of 50% American and 50% French oak barrels and then aged in new French oak barrels for six months, the minimum required for a Gran Reserva white. “We aim for  significant wood impact in a short  time while the wine develops in the bottle without oxidation," explains Díez.

The 2020 vintage is deep golden in colour, with a rich, creamy character complemented by notes of roasted almonds that lend sapid undertones. Although the oak is present, the wine’s acidity provides freshness and  backbone to the palate. After extended bottle ageing, the wine develops a notable  texture, dried herb flavours and a cleansing bitterness on the finish. With a relatively classical approach to oak ageing, the flavour profile differs from Rioja standards, which atypically favours American oak. Following extensive trials, Díez decided to limit the sweetness of the American oak to just two to three weeks during the fermentation process.

Another standout feature is the opaque bottle, a trademark of  Faustino’s red Gran Reserva, which is considered essential to protect the wine from light exposure and potential light strike. The winery uses a patented epoxy resin to protect the bottle.

The first vintage of the white Gran Reserva was 2019, with a limited production of 5,200 bottles. In 2020, the figure is close to 17,000 bottles. The winery is selling the wine at the same price as the red Gran Reserva, though some online wine shops in Spain have listed it at close to €30.