
What’s new in Jumilla? Last week we had the chance to taste some wines from this southeastern Spanish region at a press lunch organised by the DO Regulatory Board in Madrid.
Among the whites, we were surprised by the interest in international varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc, available in dry and sweet styles. Another notable development is the newly approved category of whites made from red grapes, reflecting both the sharp decline in red wines and the growing demand for whites.
That said, Monastrell reds, especially those from old and/or ungrafted vines, remain the stars of the region. The trend, however, is shifting towards lighter styles with less oak, This is evident in wines like Viña Elena's Parcela Vereda 2022, which highlights fresher soils; Silvano García's new Crianza 2021, which takes a refined, classic approach; and Parajes del Valle's Terraje 2022, a fresh, earthy expression with less alcohol.
Oak is increasingly making for alternative materials. Gil Family has just released Juan Gil Etiqueta Azul Cuvée A 2022 (€35), a Monastrell aged in equal parts amphora and oak. While the wine retains the chocolatey character imparted by oak, its texture is smooth and enveloping, with a polished mouthfeel.
If you are looking for good value, this week we recommend The Quiet Life, a Monastrell aged in concrete vats. Making its debut with the 2022 vintage, it is part of a new range created by Bodegas Pío del Ramo, which also includes a Garnacha and a Syrah - each limited to 2,000 bottles.
The release of The Quiet Life follows the winery’s 2020 expansion, which added an underground cellar with a capacity of 200,000 litres in concrete tanks. These are used mainly for malolactic fermentation, blending and ageing, while fermentation itself takes place in open stainless steel vats with pigeage, mimicking the traditional presses and foot-treading. According to winemaker Agustín Miñana, this is a return to old-school winemaking. In addition, the smaller size of the tanks makes it possible to trace specific vineyards or batches of wine.
After a series of ageing trials in concrete (a material they believe to be more porous than oak), Bodegas Pío del Ramo chose high concentration Monastrell from two leased plots of old vines in Aljubé, a district of Tobarra. These vineyards were among the first in the region to be certified organic.
After a year in concrete, the wine has become more expressive in the bottle. It shows a precise Monastrell profile, with aromas of ripe red and black fruits, Mediterranean herbs and a hint of saltiness. It is ripe (think carob), yet fresh, smooth and pleasant to drink. A straightforward, authentic interpretation of the variety.
Located in Ontur (Albacete), the winery was founded in 2007 by Pío del Ramo Núñez and is currently managed by the second generation. The estate grows 150 hectares of vines organically, most of them their own. They are located in Jumilla and Ontur, a with additional leased vineyards in Tobarra and Fuenteálamo. The winery doesn’t buy grapes from third parties, producing around 200,000 bottles per year while also selling wine in bulk.
15% abv.
€10
2.000 bottles
Score: 91

Amaya Cervera
A wine journalist with almost 30 years' experience, she is the founder of the award-winning Spanish Wine Lover website. In 2023, she won the National Gastronomy Award for Gastronomic Communication
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