The evolution of Penedès through three producers and their wines

The best way to grasp the scale of DO Penedès is to distinguish between the vineyards producing cava and those dedicated to still wine. Of the 25,000 ha planted in the vast depression between Catalonia's Litoral and Prelitoral mountain ranges, spanning the provinces of Barcelona and Tarragona, only 10% is devoted to still wines. This makes the area comparable in size to Bierzo or even Priorat, rather than Rueda or Ribera del Duero.

Penedès has been making headlines in recent years, first for the severe drought that hit the region, thankfully alleviated by generous rainfall this spring, and later this year for becoming the first 100% organic wine appellation. However, the most profound transformation it has undergone in the 21st century has been the exploration of specific terroirs, a renewed focus on local grape varieties, and the rise of a new generation of producers committed to crafting distinctive and characterful wines. This was the key message conveyed by Jordi Esteve (Can Ràfols dels Caus), Ramón Parera (Pardas) and Roc Gramona (L'Enclos de Peralba) at a recent tasting at Madrid's La Caníbal wine bar.

In a way, each of these three producers represents a different stage in the evolution of Penedès. Can Ràfols represents the pioneering, untamed spirit of its founder, Carlos Esteva, who founded the winery in the 1980s and died in June 2023. Pardas, founded in the mid-1990s, embodies a purist approach to local varieties and a heroic defence of the neglected red variety Sumoll.  Meanwhile, L'Enclòs de Peralba, launched in the 2017 vintage, reflects the energy of a younger generation,  –well- travelled and deeply committed to the region.

The main theme was Xarel.lo. Roc Gramona highlighted its deep-rooted adaptation to Penedès, making it the region’s most expressive white variety in terms of  terroir. Ramón Parera emphasised the importance of quality viticulture, advocating for a focus on "the roots rather than the leaves". Jordi Esteve, in turn, explained Carlos Esteva's straightfoward approach to this grape. When he arrived at Can Ràfols dels Caus, Esteva simply vinified the estate’s oldest vines separately in chestnut wood because that is what he found there.

The first flight of 2021 Xarel.los showed the different terroirs and individual styles of the producers. L’Enclos de Peralba Benzinera, sourced from a vineyard in the Font de Jui site, traditionally used by the Gramona family for sparkling wine, was citrusy and smoky.  Pardas’ Pur Xarel.lo, made from grapes grown in the Bitlles valley, was austere, mineral and super zesty. Finally, Can Ràfols dels Caus’ Xarel.lo Pairal, produced since the 1999 vintage, offered a broad, enveloping texture, while maintaining a distinct, chalky minerality.

There were also interesting glimpses of how Xarel.lo evolves over time.The Xarel.lo Pairal 2000, while slightly more developed on the nose, held on well, supported by the acidity on the palate. Pardas' 2010 Xarel.lo, from a rainy vintage affected by mildew,showed to be in top form: firm and with a lovely integrated acidity. In recent vintages, alcohol levels are lower (12% abv compared to 13-13.5% abv in the past) and the use of new oak has been scaled back.

We missed the presence of Enric Soler, another Xarel.lo pioneer.  His name came up several times during the tasting, but as a small producer with no more than 12,000 bottles, he rarely presents his wines in public.

The tasting ended with a flight focusing on the emerging varieties of Penedés. Malvasia de Sitges was represented by Pardas' excellent Blau Cru 2016, a white wine that has gained tremendous complexity with bottle age –offering an aromatic mix of white flowers, citrus fruit, honey and herbal notes. Can Ràfols dels Caus presented a restrained, earthy Sumoll 2016, reflecting the delicate, low-extraction approach they have used with this variety since 2008 . Lastly, L'Enclos de Peralba brought the very expressive Garnacha Les Escorpins 2018, a beautifully defined red with a very good balance between minerality, fruit, herbs and spices, as well as persistence.

Photo credits: Abel Valdenebro.