Latest readings: essays, memoirs and English editions on Spanish wine

While wine book publishing tends to be a niche market with modest print runs, particularly in Spain, it is in robust health, as evidenced by a steady stream of new titles.

Planeta Gastro, which released Mis memorias del vino by José Peñín at the end of April, is one of Spain's most dynamic publishing houses. Its catalogue features Comprender el vino (Understading Wine) by Pedro Ballesteros MW; Los nuevos viñadores (The New Vignerons) by Luis Gutiérrez; El vino auténtico (Authentic Wine) by Jamie Goode and Sam Harrop MW; Confesiones de un sommelier (Confessions of a Sommelier) by David Seijas; Juli Soler que estás en la sala (Juli Soler who is on the floor) by Óscar Caballero; and Qué vino con este pato (Which Wine with this Duck) by Ferran Centelles. "We have always aimed to include wine books in our publishing plan, with around 15–17 titles a year,” says publisher David Figueras. “They have a solid sales record and some are among our bestsellers, which we regularly reprint.  This demonstrates a clear interest and appetite for learning about wine." Figueras says that the usual practice is to go for print runs of 3,000 copies for first editions. With sales of over 10,000 copies each, the best-selling books to date are Qué vino con este pato by Centelles and Experto en vino en 24 horas (The 24-hour Wine Expert) by British wine critic Jancis Robinson.

Muddy Waters Books, a small publishing house specialising in essays and stories on a variety of subjects, has found an unexpected star in wine communicator Santiago Rivas. His debut book Deja todo o deja el vino (Leave everything or leave wine), released in November 2022, is now in its seventh edition with more than 7,000 copies sold. Vinos gentrificados (Gentrified Wines), released at the end of 2024 and reviewed below, has already gone through two print runs of 2,000 copies each. While these figures may seem modest, they are not. According to Rodrigo Varona, who co-founded the publishing house with Javier Márquez Sánchez, there is a significant disparity between the top bestseller lists and the rest of the market. “98% of the books published in Spain sell fewer than 400 copies. For a small publisher, selling 10,000 or 20,000 copies is a huge success,” he explains.

In the UK, things are not markedly different. The Classic Wine Library collection, which includes Sarah Jane Evans MW's new book on the wines of central and southern Spain, is much easier to print in smaller runs, with additional stock available in as little as two weeks. Her publisher, Académie du Vin Library, was founded by the late wine critic Steven Spurrier (1941-2021) and is a respected publishing house specialising in wine. According to Hermione Ireland, the sales projection for Evans’ latest title is 1,000 copies by the end of the year. Her previous book, The Wines of Northern Spain, has already sold over 4,000 copies. The subject matter of the book plays a key role in a book’s commercial success  —standout performers for the publisher include California, with 3,000 copies sold in just a few months, as well as volumes on Germany, Greece, the Rhône, Piedmont and Evans' first book.

Another title featured here, The Book of Sherry Wines, by César Saldaña, was originally published in Spanish by Almazara, with its English translation funded by Foods and Wines from Spain.

Printed magazines seemed to be facing more difficulties. Sobremesa ceased publication in October last year following its 40th anniversary. That is why the release of Calicata –styled more like a book than a traditional magazine – is especially welcome. More recently, the launch of a Spanish-language edition of Food & Wine is also encouraging.

The following selection includes titles published in both English and Spanish. César Saldaña's book on Jerez is the only one available in both languages. Pascaline Lepeltier's book is also available in French.

Mis memorias del vino

This is not a book to read quickly. Although it recounts the author's extensive travels to many international wine regions, its true value lies in offering essential context on the evolution of Spanish wine over recent decades. For readers aware of the dramatic transformations of the past 10 to 15 years, it’s almost impossible to imagine the dismal state of quality and scarcity of bottled wines in 1975, when José Peñín founded Cluve, one of Spain's first wine clubs. Now 82, Peñín is widely acknowledged as the doyen of wine writing in Spain. He knew so little about wine whe he started his club that he relied on the analytical laboratory run by oenologist María Isabel Mijares (1942–2024) to reassure members that the wines were stable and in good condition.

His club and journalistic work took him across Spain's wine regions. Aged Rioja was the prevailing model for fine red wines in the 1970s, but industrialisation impacted both styles and quality. Peñín sought out fruit-driven wines from lesser-known regions that would meet the expectations of his club's members. In the first issue of Sobremesa magazine in 1983, of which Peñín was a contributor, he and his colleagues described a well-known Rioja wine as having a distinct 'detergent aroma'.

The book contains hundreds of  anecdotes alongside profiles of influential figures in Spanish wine. As a journalist, Peñín pioneered on-the-ground reporting, offering firsthand tasting notes and impressions. One particularly sharp line —after failing to source wine from Jean Leon for his club— reads: "Jean Leon is not Vega Sicilia. Jean Leon is a French-style Penedès [made with Cabernet Sauvignon] that Americans drink in an Italian restaurant owned by a man from Santander".
Written in his distinctive style, the book is divided into short chapters, each with multiple headings, allowing readers to  dip into specific regions or topics. The index of names at the end is truly useful — wine professionals can quickly find out if they are featured in the book.

According to the author, the main transformation in the past 50 years is that wine has evolved from being a foodstuff to a hedonistic cultural beverage. In the current climate of uncertainty, understanding where we come from and how much things have changed may make it easier to face what lies ahead.

The Wines of Central and Southern Spain

“Viewed from outside Spain, it can seem that Spanish wine is ‘only’ Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Rías Baixas, plus Sherry and Cava […] but there is so much more to discover,” writes Sarah Jane Evans MW in this follow-up to The Wines of Northern Spain, published in 2018. Seven years on, her enthusiasm remains undimmed: “Spain is the most exciting country in Europe for wine, and one of the most exciting in the world”. Delays  caused by Brexit and Covid only deepened this conviction, as she witnessed an overall rise in quality and diversity. An update was long overdue, given that the last UK-published book to provide a comprehensive look at Spain's wines was Julian Jeffs' The Wines of Spain in 2006. Evans, who inherited Jeffs' research notes, offers a compelling update as she has witnessed the dramatic changes that Spanish wine has undergone since then.

Sarah Jane Evans MW is not only the leading expert on Spanish wines in the UK -in 2024 her contribution was recognised with the Royal Order of Isabella the Catholic. She is also a regular visitor to wineries, fairs and wine events in Spain, to the extent that it sometimes seems as if she were living here.

Following the same structure as her previous book on northern Spain, Evans offers concise historical context, followed by a detailed account of each region, including its respective DOs, wine designations, grape varieties and recommended and emerging producers. The book's layout makes it practical and informative as most of the space is devoted to producer reviews, though one could argue that such a format leaves limited space to explore the deeper structural changes reshaping Spain’s wine industry.

While the title refers to the centre and south of the country, the book also includes the Mediterranean ("Catalonia deserves a separate book", Evans notes), as well as the Balearic and Canary Islands. Sparkling wines are covered in a separate chapter. The fact that two short appendices are devoted to the DOs Vino de Pago and the Grandes Pagos de España association shows how difficult it is to explain one without mentioning the other, particularly as Grandes Pagos has become well known to critics thanks to its active international presence.

Vinos gentrificados

Santiago Rivas is a self-confessed wine lover and regular in tasting competitions. He is also a highly unconventional communicator who brings a humorous and provocative perspective of wine through his Instagram posts and videos, as well as his contributions to various Spanish media outlets. His direct, outspoken style has attracted both criticism and acclaim, as well as a growing number of requests for wine consultancy, event hosting and promoting tastings and wine events. 

What sets Rivas apart, beyond his irreverence, is his sociological insights into the world of wine. In 2022, he published his debut book, Deja todo o deja el vino (Leave everything or leave wine), an eassay in which he explains how he fell in love with wine and ultimately made it his way of life. Candid and bold, the book delves into the inner workings of the wine industry, offering an unfiltered look at its practices and personalities.

His second book, Vinos Gentrificados (Gentrified Wines), is more focused in scope and tone. Here, Rivas explores the phenomenon he describes as “wine gentrification” —the way certain  moderately priced wines, through a combination of increasing demand and speculation, become 'cult wines'. This becomes the springboard for a broader sociological exploration of contemporary wine consumption. He warns of an emerging divide  between 'initiates' and 'civilians'. The latter drink wine as they would drink any other beverage. Initiates, on the other hand, engage in what he calls ideological consumption —uncorking bottles that reflect their social standing, knowledge, culture, environmental concerns, and so on.

Building on this premise, Rivas dissects the trend and examines the key players: producers, wine communicators, sommeliers, distributors and wine bars. Each group is analysed with his signature wit and satirical edge, exposing contradictions, eccentricities and excesses. The book is sure to entertain both those unfamiliar with the inner workings of the trade and insiders who may recognise the people and situations behind the stories. While the book may ruffle feathers,  Rivas’s caustic, at times  grotesque, portrayal of the wine world is not only entertaining but also provides plenty of food for thought.

The book of Sherry Wines

This English translation of a book by César Saldaña, president of the Sherry Regulatory Board, introduces the fundamentals of Sherry wines to a much broader audience. Drawing on his extensive experience as a Sherry educator, Saldaña has written a clear, well-structured, reader-friendly book that sets aside self-indulgence and flowery language to focus on the multiple layers and nuances that make Sherry one of the world's most complex wines.

His realistic treatment of the various crises that the Sherry industry and its wines have faced is particularly welcome, as is the frank tone in the final chapter, which looks ahead to the future of Sherry. The book contains all the essential information on vineyards, winemaking, wine styles, the legal framework, cultural aspects, and the main producers. It also includes a useful helpful dictionary of the rich vocabulary that has developed around the vineyards and wineries in the Sherry Triangle, as well as a comprehensive bibliography for readers who wish to delve further into the subject.

Some issues remain only partially addressed. A comprehensive description of the pagos (specific vineyard sites) is still pending completion of an ongoing characterisation study focusing on geological, orographic, climatic and productive aspects. The same applies to vinos de pasto (unfortified whites currently outside the appellation), which are mentioned several times but await a formal definition by the Regulatory Board.

100 vinos revolucionarios

This is the tenth thematic monograph by PlanetaVino, publisher of the eponymous magazine and the Proensa Guide to Spain’s best wines. Staying true to its format, each issue revolves around the number 100 with previous titles such as 100 Historias del vino español, El vino en 100 palabras, 100 creadores del vino español and 100 figuras históricas del vino español, which is a particular favourite of ours. 100 revolutionary wines complements 100 historic brands, released two years ago, but with a different focus: brands that have driven change and helped shape the wine industry. An interesting introductory feature traces the evolution of Spanish wineries and the industry itself since the 19th-century industrial revolution, addressing topics such as irrigation, the development of tractors and cellar equipment, and the growing focus on sustainability, all within a domestic and international historical context.

This is not just a compilation of acclaimed wines; it is a selection of brands that have set trends through  style, novelty or impact in their respective regions. It includes, for instance, Guadianeja in DO La Mancha, a large bodega that brought modernisation to the area, together with well-established brands like Barón de Chirel, Tinto Pesquera, La Faraona, El Nido, 4 Kilos, Pesus and Viña El Pisón. Occasionally, the brand or winery takes precedence over a specific wine, as in the case of Protos. 

While the latest generation of Spanish wines is missing, this retrospective provides valuable context for understanding key moments in Spanish wine history  and to appreciate how Spanish wine has evolved in recent years. The book benefits from the extensive experience of Andrés Proensa, who has been writing about Spanish wine for over 40 years.

One Thousand Vines

Pascaline Lepeltier is an award-winning and highly influential sommelier. From her restaurant, Chambers, in Tribeca, New York, she champions sustainable wines that respect soil life. Her views were featured in an interview with Yolanda Ortiz de Arri, published on SWL in February 2024, and are developed in depth in her ambitious book, which she describes like this: “The book I would have liked to have got my hands on when I began my life in wine, which is more than 17 years ago now.”

First and foremost, One Thousand Vines succeeds in building bridges and connecting different worlds. Just as Lepeltier realised that she could combine her two passions for philosophy and wine when she tasted a 1937 Château d'Yquem, which she describes as a true epiphany, this book blends pragmatism with a more thoughtful and ethical vision, drawing on European sensibility. For Lepeltier, "wine is a reflection of the way we live on Earth, "illustrating humanity's capacity to transcend natural limitations for our own enjoyment, in a constant process of reinvention. The title reflects this vision: there is not one wine or vine, but thousands. Supported by reflections on quality, taste and humanity’s relationship with nature, Lepeltier's multidisciplinary approach is compelling. "How we eat and drink," she writes, "has the power to change how we live."

With this philosophy in mind, the book begins with the domestication of the vine and the development of grape varieties, before moving on to examine the plant itself, its environment, climate and geology, and the concept of terroir. It then delves into winemaking, tasting and service, concluding with a reflection on the future of wine consumption. The numerous detailed illustrations are an additional strength, providing a useful aid in establishing basic concepts.

Calicata Magazine

Calicata offers a refreshing alternative to traditional wine magazines. Its intellectual focus, contents, design, layout and number of pages make it feel closer to a cultural magazine than a wine publication. Indeed, it is dedicated to connecting wine with culture and other artistic and academic disciplines, such as architecture, anthropology, philosophy, music and design.

Another distinguishing feature is the focus on natural wine, small artisan producers, and respect for the environment and wine landscapes. Highlights of the first issue include interviews with Alice Feiring and Murcia-based producer Julia Casado; a conversation between Fabio Bartolomei and sommelier and winemaker Patricia García in Gredos; an article by IPINA-CSIC researchers Eva Parga and Pablo Alonso on natural wine certification; and an article by sommelier and documentary filmmaker Clara Isamat about the critical movement questioning Spain’s DO system.

This bold, niche project is not without risks. Editor Sheila Vélez, a journalist with a background in political communication, launched Calicata following a Master’s in Sommelier Studies and Wine Marketing at the Basque Culinary Center. The magazine was presented in Madrid with great enthusiasm followed by a series of gatherings and  events in bookshops and wine stores across Spain. Vélez hopes to publish two issues a year, and build a community around the magazine’s multidisciplinary ethos. She also aims, in her words, to "shake up the way we drink and understand wine in Spain.” On a practical note, a slightly larger font size would greatly improve readability.