Jable de Tao 2023 White

Jable de Tao is an interesting new project from Lanzarote that deserves the attention of anyone interested in Canarian wines. Their website is well worth a visit, not only for its stunning photos of vineyards, but also for its detailed information on the island's geology and the winery’s strong commitment to extreme viticulture.

Originally from Tao (Teguise), Alexis Betancor felt the call to return to his roots after studying industrial engineering. Memories of his family's rural life, which included winemaking, inspired him to find time to work on his family's land. In the 2022 vintage, he founded Jable de Tao with his wife, Matuli Rodríguez. The project represents a generational shift, offering a selection of wines that reflect the diversity of Lanzarote’s soils, landscapes, and grape varieties. They own 16 hectares and purchase grapes from local growers. Production started with around 15,000 bottles in 2022and more than doubled to 36,000 bottles in 2023 thanks to significantly higher yields.

Also involved in the project are David Hall, a coffee expert who fell in love with the Canary Islands and now oversees the day-to-day operations, and Carmelo Peña, a winemaker who fully understands the importance of returning to one's roots. Originally from Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, Peña studied a master’s degree in Oenology at Rovira i Virgili University in Tarragona. After gaining experience working with renowned producers such as Raúl Pérez in Bierzo, Niepoort in Portugal and Pedro Parra in Chile, he established Bien de Altura in Gran Canaria. He also made the wines of Puro Rofe in Lanzarote, gaining first-hand knowledge of the island's vineyards. 

Jable de Tao produces six wines. Malvasía Volcánica, a local cross between Malvasía Aromática and Marmajuelo, plays a central role in two of them. Tao is sourced from a limestone-rich area in the centre of the island, which tempers the variety’s natural exhuberance, while Tenesar comes from coastal vineyards. Here, the influence of the sea imparts a saline character to the wine. Other notable wines include the Listán Blanco Chupadero, which captures the essence of the eponymous volcanic crater in La Geria; and La Diego, produced from the indigenous Diego grape variety grown in a vineyard, nestled between the Tisalaya and Juan Bello sites in La Geria. Only one red wine is produced. Jable de Tao is a Listán Negro made from multiple vineyards across the island.

Our wine of the week is the winery's flagship white, offering the perfect introduction to its style and philosophy. Like its red counterpart, Jable de Tao Blanco is a blend of vineyards from various locations across the island. It is a blend of Listán Blanco and Negro, Malvasía Volcánica and Diego, and combines different types of growing styles and soils, including jable (sand from sedimentary and marine origin) and volcanic terrains. The same diversity applies to the winemaking, which involves a mix of vessels such as foudres, concrete tanks, 500-litre barrels, stainless steel tanks, tinajas and a ceramic tank.

Generally speaking, the wines have moderate alcohol and favour acidity over structure. Rather than filling the mid-palate, they deliver a long finish that reflects the character of the soil (earthy or stony notes are common). Jable de Tao 2023 opens with pleasant floral notes and a hint of light reduction reminiscent of phosphorus, a hallmark of many Canary Island wines. It is fresh on the palate, with citrus fruit and lively acidity that  stimulates salivation and adds juiciness. Its fluid texture gives the wine a gentle feel and balance.

12% abv.
17,000 bottles
€39 
Score: 93