Exopto Expresión de Graciano 2022 Red

There is no doubt that Graciano has a bright future in Rioja. It has enough punch and acidity to enliven any blend. Many excellent, long-lived Rioja Gran Reserva wines include some Graciano in their blends. However, as a late ripening grape, it does present some challenges. 

Making Graciano as a standalone wine is no easy task. It can be too herbaceous and vegetal; if overripe, it may develop a dark, inky character. It usually needs time in the bottle to refine and soften. The friendliest expressions of Graciano typically come from Rioja Oriental or the central area of the DO, where conditions are more favourable for the grape to complete the cycle.

In this context, we were pleasantly surprised by the new Exopto Expresión de Graciano from Tom Puyaubert, a French producer based in Rioja. Puyaubert has demonstrated a keen understanding of this grape. He was one of the first to blend it generously with Tempranillo, sourcing most of his Graciano from Rioja Oriental, and for some years now he has been making La Mimbrera, a characterful single-vineyard Graciano –one of those that benefits from bottleageing– from a plot he has planted in Ábalos.

In light of the warm vintages of recent years, he decided to transform the red Exopto. The original wine had Graciano as the dominant grape (60% in the 2021 vintage), along with Tempranillo and Garnacha, but it has now become a single-varietal Graciano. The wine blends three different origins in almost equal proportions: Laguardia and Ábalos in the Sonsierra region and Rioja Oriental. The result is a lovely floral and perfumed nose. On the palate, the wine is juicy, showcasing the characteristic acidity of the variety, which adds tension while maintaining a good texture, with well-integrated tannins and a lively peppery finish.

Will there be significantly less Tempranillo in Rioja in 10 or 20 years' time? It is difficult to say, but Puyaubert is firmly committed to Graciano. He has recently planted half a hectare and replants it in his vineyards to make up for any shortfalls.

Exopto's main international markets are the UK, the US and Puerto Rico. Importers in these countries include Vagabond Wines (UK), Polaner Selecions, Beaune Imports and Calvert & Woodley (USA) and Hungaricum (Puerto Rico). In Spain, the wine is available from the winery's website for €27.25. See other buying options via Wine Searcher here.

5,000 bottles
€27 
Score: 94