Eguíluz 2024 Red

What lies in store for traditional vignerons in Rioja?, asked Yolanda Ortiz de Arri in an article published in SWL in 2021. She looked at how vignerons in the Sonsierra , long known for their traditional carbonic maceration reds typically sold at the cellar door or locally, were adapting to changing times.

Among the stories featured was that of the Eguíluz family from Ábalos (La Rioja). Javier Eguíluz took over the bodega he shared with his brothers transforming it into a well-structured  family business. He looks after the vineyards, his wife oversees administration and their son Israel, now in his 30s, is in charge of winemaking and sales. They used to sell bulk wine to large wineries in the area while also producing their own carbonic maceration young red and a crianza Tempranillo, also made by fermenting and foot-treading whole bunches in open concrete vats. However, after the slowdown following the pandemic, Israel recognised the need to seek new national and international markets.

Last January he took part in the Salón de los Vinos Radicales in Madrid, where we saw  how the winery has renewed and expanded its range. Their portfolio is now divided into two categories: traditional wines -including the young red, a Crianza and a Reserva, all made with carbonic maceration and presented in Bordeaux-shaped bottles- and terroir-driven wines in Burgundy-shaped bottles, sourced from selected vineyards in Ábalos. Among these, Las Preferidas, available in red and white, represents their finest possible blend, while El Refugio del Robleñal, a Tempranillo from a plot next to the place where goats once grazed and found shelter - holds particular sentimental value for the family. The most ambitious and powerful Tempranillo red, Carrapeciña (€35), comes from three adjacent plots in the coolest and most elevated areas of Ábalos. The branding and labels have been designed by Calcco, the creative agency behind much of the new wave of Rioja.

We recommend following Bodegas Eguíluz, as their evolution is truly interesting, but today we want to focus on their entry-level red wine, where  their true DNA is expressed. Their approach to treading grapes ensures a very gentle extraction  and only the “heart”, the central portion of the juice, makes it into the bottle.

We consider it to be one of the finest carbonic maceration reds from the Sonsierra, bursting with vibrant fruit reminiscent of blackberries, subtle liquorice undertones,  and a fresh, balanced character –undoubtedly enhanced by the 10% Viura in the blend. Sometimes what you really crave is a juicy burst of fruit that tastes as good as the grape itself.

85% Tempranillo, 10% Viura, 5% Garnacha
€7 
Score: 89