Viña Salceda, the Rioja Alavesa winery acquired by Grupo Perelada alongside the wine assets of the Chivite family, has embarked on a new chapter under winemaker David González.
González previously led a remarkable transformation in Rioja during his tenure at Gómez Cruzado, a century-old winery in Haro's Barrio de la Estación. There, he pioneered blends such as a 50% Tempranillo and 50% Garnacha combination, and explored a range of terroirs, particularly the Sonsierra and the Najerilla Valley. He also elevated Garnacha from the latter into a defining component of several wines.
He now faces the challenge of revitalising a bodega founded in 1969 that has long relied on traditional ageing designations for its Viña Salceda Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva wines, as well as the premium Reserva Conde de la Salceda. Aside from introducing a lees-aged white, González has primarily focused on developing a new range of wines that showcase specific Rioja terroirs.
By concentrating on the areas he knows best, González has produced wines that differ markedly from those he made at Gómez Cruzado. The clearest example is Cabezaparda, a single-varietal old-vine Garnacha sourced from the Alto Najerilla valley, specifically Badarán, Cordovín and Cárdenas. The wine takes its name from the +2,000-metre peak within the Regional Hunting Reserve of Sierra de la Demanda, the mountain range that marks the southern border of DOCa Rioja.
Around 30% of the stems are included in the initial fermentations, though discarded lots in the final blend mean their presence does not exceed 10%. Ageing for one-year takes place in a mix of egg-shaped concrete tanks, 225-litre untoasted barrels, and a 2,500-litre foudre. This approach is increasingly common among premium Rioja producers, as it preserves the character of the terroir while limiting the influence of oak.
Those familiar with Pancrudo, Gómez Cruzado's crisp, herbal and lifted single-varietal Garnacha, will find Cabezaparda a touch more structured. True to the variety's charm, the nose expresses a Mediterranean character with spicy notes of white pepper, orange peel and dried flowers over an earthy background. The palate is juicy yet grounded by a firm, earthy mouthfeel, as though tapping directly into the red clay soils that define the Alto Najerilla Valley.
This is an excellent choice for Garnacha lovers seeking a red wine to accompany medium-bodied dishes this Christmas. The variety's expression is guaranteed.
14% abv
4,000 bottles
€38
Score: 93
Author
Amaya Cervera
A wine journalist with almost 30 years' experience, she is the founder of the award-winning Spanish Wine Lover website. In 2023, she won the National Gastronomy Award for Gastronomic Communication
