Blanc de Closos 2024 White

The small but distinctive niche of Priorat white wines continues to impress. The wines have a strong personality drawing on the region's natural concentration, the character of its llicorella soils, and a wide palette of grape varieties led by Garnacha Blanca and Macabeo, with rarer additions such as Pedro Ximénez, Chenin Blanc, and Escanyavella. Expectations are now turning towards Cariñena Blanca, following its approval by the Regulatory Board last year, although the decision still awaits ratification by higher authorities.

Cariñena Blanca, a mutation of the eponymous red variety, was first documented in Catalonia in the early 20th century but only became a registered commercial variety in Spain in 2018. According to data from the Ministry of Agriculture, there were 25 hectares of Cariñena Blanca in Catalonia and four in Aragón in 2024, with the highest concentration in Empordà, though small amounts also scattered across other Catalan regions. In Priorat, Familia Nin Ortiz pioneered the first single-varietal Cariñena Blanca, sparking the interest of producers such as Vall Llach and Mas Alta. The grape’s combination of excellent acidity and moderate alcohol makes it particularly well adapted to the challenges of climate change.  

Our wine of the week, made by Costers del Priorat, provides a good introduction to this emerging variety in this rugged, drought-stricken mountainous region. The winery had been forced to abandon its original Blanc de Closos concept, a blend of white varieties interspersed with reds in the oldest vineyards, dominated by Garnacha Blanca. " Yields have been so low that we’ve had to use those grapes for our single-vineyard reds," admits winemaker José Mas. A new opportunity arose when the estate purchased a vineyard some years ago in one of Porrera’s coolest areas, where 30-year-old Cabernet Sauvignon vines with little vigour on terraces were re-grafted with Cariñena Blanca. "Here we achieve excellent acidity," Mas explains.

This is why, during the 2024 harvest, he chose to produce Blanc de Closos as a single-varietal Cariñena Blanca. The label has been subtly redesigned to distinguish it from previous Garnacha Blanca vintages. The drawback is that, as Cariñena Blanca still lacks final approval in the region, its name cannot yet appear on the label.

For Mas, "Cariñena is a shy variety compared to Garnacha, which is more exuberant, and the difference is also evident in their white versions, especially in a cool area". He matured part of the wine in a 225-litre La Grange barrel, which imparts almost no aroma but adds weight to the palate. The rest of the wine was kept in stainless steel tanks. Inspired by some whites he tasted on a recent trip to Australia, which had evolved beautifully, he opted for an early bottling in spring. "Small volumes are more prone to oxidation. On the other hand, Priorat allows us to harvest earlier without losing fruit density. In bottle, the wine ultimately matures, but what happens when you start from very ripe grapes? By harvesting earlier, we achieve greater complexity and freshness, and the necessary weight on the palate for the wine to unfold over time," he explains.

This wine certainly feels youthful, with aromas of white fruit, raw almonds, hay and quince. Its true potential lies on the palate, where its good acidity and texture are enhanced by the enveloping warmth that characterises the finest Priorat whites. Although it is an autumn wine, it has a bright and luminous character. Ultimately, however, the imprint of the slate soils dominates the finish, eclipsing the fruit. It will be interesting to see how it develops over the next four to five years.

13.5% abv
900 bottles
€30 
Score: 93