Vall Llach Porrera Vi de Vila 2023 White

White wines are a rare exception in Priorat. This harsh, slate-rich land in inland Tarragona does not confine itself to the language of Garnacha and Cariñena; it leaves a profound imprint on the region’s scarce white wines.

One of the most interesting flights I came across at the last edition of the Decanter World Wine Awards showcased an outstanding selection of whites from this appellation. These wines cannot be described as fresh or aromatic, yet they are deep, sapid and mineral. With a distinctive, often bold personality and a solid structure, they are well suited to pairing with food.

This village wine, which Vall Llach has been producing since the 2021 vintage, is a perfect introduction to what the region has to offer. It is made with Garnacha Blanca, the most widely planted white grape variety in Priorat. The grapes come from three different sites in Porrera: Mas d'en Peri, Trossos de la Sentiu and the increasingly renowned Coma d'en Romeu. Fermentation was carried out with the skins, although this doesn't leave a mark on the palate, and the wine was briefly aged in foudre.

It has a distinctly Mediterranean profile, with aromas of ripe fruit (pear, white peach) and beeswax set against a backdrop of fresh almonds. The palate is full-bodied, offering herbal notes and a warm note from the slate soil, balanced by enough freshness and a dry finish that lends it a strong character.

Vall-Llach, the winery founded in Porrera in the 1990s by singer-songwriter Lluís Llach and notary Enric Costa, has been run by Costa's son, Albert, since 2013. Moving away from the powerful, structured Priorats of to the past, he has embraced a subtler, more rounded style based on local grape varieties. In addition, Albert Costa has converted the vineyards to organic farming, while maintaining a strong commitment to the environment, the land and the local community. He often says that "while the 'Magnificent Five' [René Barbier, José Luis Pérez, Daphne Glorian, Carles Pastrana and Álvaro Palacios] led the wine revolution in Priorat, Lluís Llach led the social revolution".

Albert Costa is also redefining Vall Llach’s wine range, changing many of the brands to Burgundy-shaped bottles and embracing the classification system of the region since his top red Mas de la Rosa was among the first wines to be recognised as a Gran Vinya Classificada in Priorat. Vall Llach Porrera Vi de Vila, as well as the white Horta Colomer (a Vino de Paraje made from Cariñena Blanca and Gris), represent his own vision -taking Vall Llach’s whites a step beyond Aigua de Llum, the winery's original Viognier-based white.

14.5% abv.
10,000 bottles
€28  
Score: 92