Rioja meets Burgundy in Haro's grand tasting

Last week, the Barrio de la Estación in Haro (La Rioja) buzzed with activity as it hosted the third edition of its International Wine Encounters. Following Bordeaux and Piedmont, Burgundy was the guest wine region this year.

The French region was represented by Olivier Leflaive, Joseph Drouhin, Albert Bichot, Louis Jadot and Ropiteau, as well as Laroche and Maison Champy, both under the same ownership. Each house presented three wines, all classified as premier cru.  Most were recent vintages, with the exception of two 2018s from Bichot and a 2019 from Olivier Leflaive. White wines clearly dominated the tasting: 11 out of the 18 wines poured.

Although the Riedel 001 glass chosen by the organisers favoured Rioja’s Tempranillo over Burgundy’s Pinot Noir, the event attracted over 600 wine professionals, setting a record for attendance.

The close-knit layout of the wineries in this historic winemaking district, built around the train station, made it easy for visitors to move from one producer to the next. The Barrio itself became the star of the event.

This year, walkaround tastings were hosted by Cvne and Muga, but all the producers held a separate event at their facilities: Muga offered a vertical tasting of Selección Especial; Roda focused on the last three vintages of Cirsion and Roda I Blanco; La Rioja Alta, S.A. presented the new vintages of its Grandes Reservas; Gómez Cruzado explored the blend behind Montes Obarenes; Bilbaínas demonstrated the disgorging technique; and Cvne combined a presentation of premium wines with a new exhibition by artist Jaume Plensa (see photo below). In contrast to Plensa’s well-known monumental sculptures, the installation features a series of gongs representing essential human activities (—including smelling and drinking — each producing a different sound). There is more than wine in Haro's Barrio de la Estación.

For our SWL readers, we have selected one standout or surprising wine from each of the Rioja producers at the event.

Asúa Reserva 2019 Red. Cvne seems to have an endless capacity for innovation. The Asúa range —named after the founding brothers’ surname (with Real de Asúa reserved for a top-tier red sold via La Place de Bordeaux)— is aimed exclusively at the on-trade and features a modern label that breaks with tradition.  Available as Crianza and Reserva, the latter was first released with the 2018 vintage and is also classified as a village wine. The majority of the grapes come from Haro, with under 15% (as required by the regulations) from Villalba. The style is more modern than the Cune range, with more French oak than American. It is a minty, spicy, savoury red with a dry finish.

Montes Obarenes 2021 Blanco. Gómez Cruzado has produced one of the most balanced and exciting vintages of this white wine, a blend of Viura (65%) with Tempranillo Blanco (25%) plus small amounts of Malvasía, Garnacha Blanca and Calagraño. The wine has everything: aromatic complexity (aniseed and smoky notes over a honeyed background), elegance, just the right amount of acidity and a smooth, creamy palate. It should age well for at least a decade.

Gran Reserva 904 2016 Tinto. La Rioja Alta offered a preview of the new vintage of 904. There is no official release date yet, as the 2015 is still on sale. While 2015 was the first vintage in the history of 904 to be declared a special vintage, 2016 did not lag behind. It was a generous but slow ripening vintage that rewarded those who waited. At the time, winemaker Julio Sáenz called it the “vintage of patience.” The wine still feels young but remains true to the brand's identity. It is all about finesse and subtlety, with pleasant spicy notes and a smooth, velvety palate.

Viña Pomal Gran Reserva 2016 Tinto. With the Pomal name taking central stage, the Gran Reserva has a new, vintage-inspired label that reflects the seriousness of the category. Interestingly, the blend mirrors that of La Rioja Alta’s 904: 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano, with the latter sourced from Vicuana, the same plot that gives the single-vineyard red Viña Vicuana its distinctive character. The Gran Reserva, however, follows a classic style, with the two varieties maturing separately in American oak before being blended and aged for a year in foudre. Pleasant spicy (cloves, nutmeg) aromas, with good tension on the palate, lively acidity and firm tannins. A red to lay down.

Aro 2021 Tinto.  Muga’s most modern red is rarely made and hard to come by —this vintage saw just over 6,000 bottles released at around €270 each. While the varieties remain unchanged, Graciano has much more weight here and, in fact, the wine’s release hinges on the grape’s quality and ripeness.  Compared with the first vintages, extraction has been toned down, resulting in a wine that balances the fleshy and leafy qualities of Graciano with hints of pencil lead and floral notes. The palate is powerful, tight and bright. 2021 is a wonderful vintage and an excellent wine for cellaring.

Roda I 2019. Although the blend is the same, Graciano is down to 5% in this vintage. It is amazing how many different styles of wine can be made just by combining two grape varieties. This wine is vibrant and youthful, brimming with black and red fruit. The restrained use of oak brings out the fruit even more. Surprisingly fresh for a 2019, it shows great tension and balance —a wine with plenty of life ahead.