Mujer Caballo Taronja (Orange) 2021 White

The popularity of orange wines and the use of varying degrees of skin contact in the fermentation of white wines have significantly broadened the colour spectrum of Spanish whites. One of our favourites at the bolder end of the scale is Mujer Caballo T (for taronja, 'orange' in Valencian).  It stands out not just for its distinctive flavour but also for the joyful combination of elements involved.

Firstly, the producers have excelled in showcasing the potential of local Valencian varieties –precisely the mission behind Fil.loxera & Cía since it was founded in 2011. Established by three wineprofessional friends, this winery has successfully revived two late ripening red varieties with lively acidity: Arco, used now in the region to make smooth, spicy reds, and Ullet de Perdiu.

These two varieties and the blend of Valencí (65%), Airén, Moscatel and other unidentified white grapes in their orange wine, form the Mujer Caballo range. Thenames draws an analogy between these often overlooked grapes and the marginalised individuals who end up in the circus. The full name on the labels reads: "Welcome to the extraordinary world of the horsewoman".

Another interesting feature of this orange wine is the punch of energy –a quality we often liken to rock and roll– brought by the skins of relatively neutral varieties such as Valencí and Airén. In the case of Moscatel, the skin contact tempers its distinctive aromas and counters the heavy or overly sweet undertones that often prevail in Mediterranean wines. This style represents an exciting step forward for the region and for Mediterranean wines in Spain.

The grapes come from their own vineyards in Fontanars del Alforins. The Valencí is crushed with the stems and no sulphur dioxide is added, while the remaining grapes are destemmed. Fermentation begins on the skins in plastic vats. After about seven days, the wine is pressed and transferred to stainless steel vats. It is surprising that such an intense colour is achieved after in so short a time on the skins. The wine is then aged in 500-litre oak barrels for about eight months.

The result is an aromatic, vibrant wine –robust without being overpowering. Sweet and stone fruit aromas combine with a lively herbaceous background. True to the category, it has tannins, but they are well integrated into the wine. It is perfect with cheeses or to enjoy on its own when you are in the mood for somethingbold.

Fil.loxera & Cía’s most solid international markets are Japan, via importer Ida Wines, and, surprisingly, Italy, where Proposta Vini represents the winery. In the UK, the wines are available through Ultracomida, a Cardiff-based specialist in Spanish products. Other purchasing options can be found on Wine Searcher.

12.5% vol. 
3,745 bottles
€24 in Spain 
Score: 93