Looking back at Rioja’s 1959 vintage

The exploration of the history of Rioja takes on special significance in the year that marks the 100th anniversary of the DOCa. A few weeks ago, SWL had the opportunity to taste several wines from the 1959 vintage with a group of professionals and enthusiasts with deep knowledge of the region's old vintages.

The initiative came from Alex Klip, a Mexican wine enthusiast based in Toronto, Canada, whom we interviewed earlier this year. He was joined by wine expert and educator Juancho Asenjo, Spanish Master of Wine Pedro Ballesteros, wine collector Helios Bueno and winemakers Basilio Izquierdo and Jesús Madrazo, both with extensive careers at Cvne and Contino respectively, as well as Aurelio García. Representing SWL were Yolanda Ortiz de Arri and myself.

Klip's choice of 1959 stems from the many interesting bottles he has tasted from that vintage over the years. Although he often complains about the “tyranny of comparative tastings”, when very good bottles can be overshadowed by wines that happen to show better on the day, he was curious to assemble a range of wines from  this particular vintage. “These wines have aged very well," he says. Each of the bottles selected had previously left a positive impression on him. They included the white Viña Soledad and the red Excelso, both from Bodegas Franco-Españolas, the reds Conde de los Andes (Federico Paternina), Glorioso (Cosme Palacio), 890 (La Rioja Alta), Marqués de Riscal, and Cvne's iconic Imperial and Viña Real.

A look at the vintages

Although 1959 was officially rated as “very good,” it is not considered the standout vintage of the 1950s -that glorious decade saw three excellent vintages: 1952, 1955 and 1958. In the 1940s, only 1948 was considered excellent - the now legendary 1947 was rated very good, as were 1942 and 1949. In the 1960s, 1964 stood out, while 1962 and 1968 were deemed to be very good.

At that time, wines were typically classified  according to the average number of years spent in the cellar prior to bottling: 2nd year, 3rd year, 4th year, 5th year, 6th year. It was not unusual for wines to be blended with other vintages in proportions that would exceed today’s legal limits. However, in the best years, bodegas could reserve wines of particularly high quality and ageing potential, which would then be bottled under a specific vintage. Naturally, each producer interpreted the vintage in their own way, with varying degrees of rigour. 

In fact, it was not until 1980 that Rioja began to certify vintages. This followed a ministerial order issued in August 1979 to regulate the quality, age and ageing of wines. As a result, the current Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva categories were introduced. From 1980 onwards, 85% of the wine had to come from the stated vintage , a rule that remains in force today.

Spain and the world in 1959

This was an important year for Spain. As Pedro Ballesteros MW pointed out, it marked the end of the autarky imposed by Franco following the Spanish Civil War and the beginning of a period of economic growth that gradually opened Spain to the rest of the world. The Stabilisation Plan introduced that year laid the foundations for the country’s development during the 1960s.

Elsewhere, the world witnessed the Cuban Revolution, the USSR launched the first rocket to reach the moon and Pope John XXIII announced the Second Vatican Council. In the US, Alaska and Hawaii became official American states, the first Barbie doll was launched, and rock 'n' roll legends Buddy Holly, Ritchie Valens and The Big Bopper die in a plane crash -a tragedy that became known as "the day the music died". It was also the year the UN General Assembly adopted the Declaration of the Rights of the Child.

Back in Rioja, the region was still grappling with the aftermath of the war, and the priority was simply to keep moving forward. Chapter 7 of the DOCa.'s 1947 regulations stated that "exceptionally" and "when the needs of domestic and foreign trade require it", the Board could authorise ageing bodegas to "introduce similar wines from other origins, solely for the purpose of carrying out winemaking processes, so that the standard quality can be maintained in bad vintages." A 1953 update capped these so-called "wine imports" at 20%.

In 1959, the Rioja Board was chaired by Antonio Larrea, a leading figure for his constructive vision and commitment to promoting the region's wines. Director of the Haro Oenological Station between 1943 and 1970, he presided over the Consejo from 1953 to 1970. When he took office, the Board included growers, bulk producers (those were very different times), exporters and representatives of the Ministry.

All these facts are included in El rioja histórico, la denominación de origen y su Consejo Regulador, a book edited by José Luis Gómez Urdáñez and published to mark the Consejo’s 75th anniversary. It presents a bittersweet portrait of this period, marked by very limited funding, growing tensions between the different players in the wine industry as regulations became more stringent, and friction with Rioja Alavesa producers, who already benefited from a more favourable provincial tax regime. Nonetheless, there were signs of renewed momentum, particularly with the gradual recovery of exports and promotional efforts. In 1956, a slogan competition was held. The winning phrase "Rioja wines are not better, they are unique" won the first prize, but was rejected by the Patent Office, so the runner-up's slogan was adopted instead: "Rioja, a small name for a great wine."

Great brands vs. great bottles 

The 1950s yielded generous, high-quality vintages that often remained in the cellars for a long time due to economic downturns and sluggish sales. As Juancho Asenjo pointed out, many wines bearing ageing indications such as Reserva (Viña Sole, 890), Reserva Especial (Glorioso, Viña Real) or Gran Reserva (Excelso and Conde de los Andes) were likely not labelled until the 1980s. La Rioja Alta 890, which is now sold as a Gran Reserva, was originally a Reserva. Its evolution can be traced at the Spanish Patent and Trademark Office. It was first registered simply as '890' in 1981, then as 'Reserva 890' in 1985, and finally as 'Gran Reserva 890' in 1994.

Labels from this era also reflect a desire to convey quality and exclusivity. Some, like Viña Soledad, Conde de los Andes and La Rioja Alta 890, featured numbered bottles.  Viña Real placed particular emphasis on the vintage, printed prominently  on a dark blue strip at the base of the label.

It would have been wishful thinking to expect every bottle to be in perfect condition. Although fill levels were fairly good for their age, the wines came from varied sources. Most were drawn from private collections, except for Riscal, which came directly from the cellar, courtesy of winemaker Francisco Hurtado de Amézaga. The bottle was part of a lot of 1,000 that had been recorked in May 2013, and came with a certificate from the Regulatory Board. It stated that "the operation was carried out with nitrogen in an inert atmosphere in order to preserve the sensory profile of the wine". It’s quite extraordinary that so many bottles from this vintage have survived. The despair of one era can indeed become the joy of another.

The tasting itself was a mixed bag: some slightly tired wines, some bottles in poor condition and a good number of exceptional wines. Riscal, La Rioja Alta 890 and Cvne's Viña Real and Imperial were in top form -truly impressive for wines over 65 years old.

Juancho Asenjo drew attention to two key terroirs –and in some ways, two philosophies and two distinct styles: the elegance of Rioja Alta, represented by Excelso, Conde de los Andes, Reserva 890 and Imperial, versus the fuller, deeper reds of Rioja Alavesa: Riscal, Viña Real and Glorioso. While the precise origin of the grapes may be debatable given the practices of the time, it is reasonable to assume that, in a quality vintage such as 1959, producers would have relied on their usual sources. For Riscal, this would have been the vineyards of Elciego, while Cosme Palacio was closely linked to Laguardia. And although Viña Real may have added batches of Garnacha from Rioja Oriental, it seems clear that the aim was to achieve the riper, fuller style associated with Rioja Alavesa.

Winemaking practices at the time typically involved an initial period of one to two years in large wooden vats before the wine was transferred to seasoned American oak barrels. Barrel ageing times varied depending on the style of the producer and probably market demand. In any case, a long rest in oak with regular racking was the norm for these top brands. This process took place in underground cellars, which provided ideal conditions for the wine to mature.

Tasting notes

These were our impressions. Wines are listed in order of service.

Viña Soledad Tête de Cuvée Reserva 1959 White, Bodegas Franco-Españolas. This was the only white of the tasting. Viña Soledad (also known as Viña Sole) is one of the few old white Rioja still occasionally found in restaurants and auction websites. We published an in-depth article on the brand last year, following a vertical tasting hosted by the winery in Madrid and a visit to their facilities in Logroño.

Slightly brownish in appearance, the nose showed signs of evolution with stewed fruit (dried apricots), honeyed and candied notes. The palate was more lively, supported by the acidity -round, soft and almost opulent. As it evolved in the glass, the honeyed character became increasingly dominant. Not a bad bottle, though a far cry from the vibrant, surprisingly youthful example I tasted a couple of years ago -see my notes linked above.

Excelso Gran Reserva 1959 Red, Bodegas Franco-Españolas. A disappointing bottle. Oxidised and showing dusty notes, it retained some acidity but was clearly past its prime. Sadly, it was not a great showing for Excelso.

Glorioso Reserva Especial 1959 Red, Bodegas Cosme Palacio. A wine with its ups and downs. A little cloudy, it was initially reductive and gamey, later revealing red fruit and spicy notes. However, the palate lacked balance, marked by a sweet note and a tannic edge. Jesús Madrazo pointed out that, given the extensive racking typical of the time, which resulted in very clean wines, cloudiness was a clear sign that the wine was damaged.

Marqués de Riscal Reserva 1959 Red. A remarkable exception in the tasting, thanks to the character, fruit and relative youthfulness imparted  by Cabernet Sauvignon. Although with far less Cabernet than Riscal's famous Reserva Médoc reds, the variety was unmistakably present, enhanced by the time spent in the bottle. Tasted blind, we would have said this was a red Bordeaux: it had vitality, forest floor aromas and blackcurrant notes (although it is hard to believe, the fruit was very present). An elegant, well balanced, juicy and almost vibrant. It felt the youngest of the group.

Employing French winemakers until 1954, Riscal remained loyal to the vintage concept, as evidenced in its historical cellar, which dates back to the 1862 vintage. The 1959 was made by the father of the current winemaker, Francisco Hurtado de Amézaga. The wine was aged in oak barrels for three to four years.

Conde de los Andes Gran Reserva 1959 Red, Federico Paternina. Clean, ruby brick red colour. Despite the pleasant aromas of forest floor and damp earth, there was a persistent note of mustiness in the nose that never quite went away. The palate was more interesting, with good acidity, reminiscent of red fruit, and good length, although still a little austere with slightly drying tannins.

Reserva 890 1959 Red, La Rioja Alta. One of the standout wines of the tasting. The nose was beautifully complex, offering fine leather, dried fruit, tobacco, nutty notes and even a hint of volatile acidity that added complexity. A very elegant wine, with sparks of crispness but also depth, firmness and an almost spherical mouthfeel. While it began to fade slightly in the glass over time, it offered a glorious half hour of pure enjoyment. 

Imperial 1959 Red, Cvne. Made by legendary winemaker Ezequiel García, 'El Brujo', this was a superb wine -energetic and rich, with delicate tertiary notes and hints of red fruit and meat that enlivened the palate. Broad and aromatic, it was one of the juiciest and most persistent reds of the tasting, with a long, nutty finish.

The absence of ageing information on the label suggested that the wine was labelled before the 1980s. Basilio Izquierdo confirmed that, at the time, Cvne's top reds were bottled after four or five years in barrel, followed by a long period in bottle ageing, which was considered an essential step in the process.

Viña Real Reserva 1959 Red, Cvne. Another excellent, slightly exotic wine that stood out and was the favourite of many tasters. Perhaps more expressive than refine, but utterly captivating. It had herbaceous notes and hints of turmeric and concentrated broth, evolving into a spicy (paprika) and smoky character. Fleshy and full-bodied, it perfectly embodied the Rioja Alavesa profile as described by Juancho Asenjo.

The wine was also made by Ezequiel Garcia. Jesús Madrazo believes that the Viña Real of the late 1950s and 1960s  included grapes from Contino in the blend, because it was one of Garcia's favourite suppliers -Madrazo remembers vats marked with the initials TL, meaning Tinto Laserna, a hamlet of Laguardia (Rioja Alavesa), where Viñedos del Contino is located. "Ezequiel was a true master of blending," he remarked. According to Basilio Izquierdo, grapes from Elciego and Contino accounted for two thirds of the Viña Real blend.

There is no doubt that blending is a cornerstone of the essence of Rioja. The exact composition of these bottles is hard to pin down, but Garnacha lovers (myself included) may well attribute some of the exotic aromas to this variety.

The interplay between Imperial and Viña Real was magnificent –a compelling duo that made it nearly impossible to choose a favourite.

My personal impression is that the reds of the 1950s are more original and profound (perhaps more authentic?) than the classic Rioja profile of the 1960s, with its fine leather, spices, bright acidity and silky, round tannins . For Helios Bueno, who has tasted many old Rioja bottles, "1959 is a vintage with good colour stability that can still be enjoyed. In general, the wines of the 1950s are in better condition than those of the 1960s.”

Beyond rankings and favourites, the tasting showed once again that much of Rioja's greatness lies in the extraordinary ageing capacity of its finest wines.