Lassot 2023 Red

How many wines made from Garnacha Peluda have you tried, wine lovers? This variety is a mutation of Garnacha Tinta, distinguished by its downy leaves. The hairy underside prevents water evaporation and keeps the leaves cool, which is a particularly valuable trait considering climate change.

Edetària, in Terra Alta (Tarragona, Catalonia), has shown great interest in this grape variety. They grow seven hectares of it, accounting for 10% of their total vineyard area, spread across several plots in Gandesa. According to owner Joan Àngel Lliberia, "Garnacha Peluda offers plenty of freshness. Together with Cariñena, it is a great complement to Garnacha Tinta."

For years, Edetària produced La Personal from their oldest Garnacha Peluda vineyard. That plot is now blended with an extremely old Cariñena vineyard to create Lo Mas, the winery's new top red wine. However, Lliberia wanted to maintain a single-varietal Garnacha Peluda in his range, which is why he launched Lassot, starting with the 2023 vintage.

The grapes are sourced from Tossal, a goblet-trained vineyard just over 40 years old (see the photo below), planted on a type of soil known locally as tapàs. Composed of shale and layers of compacted marl, this hard clay rock has low water retention capacity, which is why support irrigation was introduced to the vineyard.   

These vines are planted with local, traditional plant material that tends to ripen unevenly. This means the grapes are picked in several stages. The first harvest includes grapes that will not reach full ripeness and are destined for Mirage rosé. The second is used for blends, while the third focuses on the smallest, ripest berries for Lassot.

The wine is markedly different in style from La Personal. Firstly, it shows lower concentration; secondly, the winemaking techniques are different, with fermentation carried out at temperatures not exceeding 20°C and ageing taking place in stoneware amphorae. Stoneware is less porous than traditional clay jars. According to a study by the University of Valladolid, the micro-oxygenation provided by this material is comparable to that of a second-use 500-litre barrel. Lliberia describes this type of amphora as "the perfect barrel" because it allows  "gentle micro-oxygenation and adds zero make-up".

Lassot delivers an explosion of floral and fruity aromas (violet, blueberry, blackberry and plum), backed by a Mediterranean backdrop of aromatic herbs. It really fills the palate, not so much due to tannic structure, but thanks to its aromatic dimension. In fact, the texture is gentle, with the tannins fully integrated and none of the rusticity often associated with Garnacha Peluda. This is a fine example of the new approach to Mediterranean wines, which are becoming more expressive as they move away from over-extraction and excessive oak ageing.

One final note on Garnacha Peluda: according to the Ministry of Agriculture, 537 hectares were under cultivation in Spain as of 31 July 2024. The highest density is found in Castilla-La Mancha, with 345 hectares. Aragón has 22 hectares, while Catalonia, which has shown greater interest in producing it separately, has 170 hectares.

1,300 bottles
14.5% abv
€60 
Score: 94