Introducing Subsierra, a new producer association in Rioja
After years of meetings, gatherings, and a shared vision to champion the vineyards on the slopes of the Sierra Cantabria along the left bank of the river Ebro in Rioja, SUBSIERRA was officially presented last week in Vitoria, the Basque capital.
This new association unites eight family wineries: Juan Luis Cañas and his son Jon (Amaren, Samaniego), the Sáenz de Samaniego brothers (Bodegas Ostatu), Arturo de Miguel (Artuke, Baños de Ebro), Carlos and Fidel Fernández (Bodegas Tierra, Labastida), Carlos Sánchez (Labastida), Loli Casado (Lapuebla de Labarca), Itu Ruiz (Teodoro Ruiz Monje, San Vicente de la Sonsierra), and Roberto Oliván (Tentenublo, Viñaspre).
Unlike Viñedos de Álava, which recently had its bid for a separate PDO quashed by the Basque judiciary, Subsierra seeks to build a stronger, more authentic Rioja from within, grounded in a deep respect for the land and quality craftsmanship. These small wineries recognise the strength in unity: collectively, they grow 318 hectares and produce 77 wines across six villages within the protective reach of the Sierra Cantabria, spanning Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Alta.
Subsierra is open to new members from the area who meet strict standards: owning or maintaining long-term grape contracts with growers in the old Navarrese Sonsierra –spanning from Briñas on the west of Rioja to Moreda on the east–, preserving heritage vineyards, operating as family-rooted wineries that pay taxes locally, practicing certified organic or in-conversion viticulture, and harvesting by hand.
The association's goal is to “promote the region, practice sustainable viticulture, and secure a hopeful future for the next generations.” According to Roberto Oliván, who could not attend the presentation due to illness, Subsierra is not currently seeking representation in the Regulatory Council or pursuing joint commercial activities. “For the time being we are going to present the association, offer training courses for winegrowers and provide a platform to defend their territory and elevate the value of the region.”
Yolanda Ortiz de Arri
A journalist with over 25 years' experience in national and international media. WSET3, wine educator and translator
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