Dominio do Bibei 2020 Red

Dominio do Bibei is a flagship producer. It is in Galicia and the wine bearing its name is one of the region's must-try reds. While serious red wines are now being produced in Ribeiro, Valdeorras and Rías Baixas, Ribeira Sacra is the DO with the highest proportion of red grapes in Galicia. The most widely planted variety is Mencía, but the extraordinary nuances provided by other local varieties are not to be missed.

The project is led by Javier Domínguez, brother of the renowned Galician fashion designer, Adolfo Domínguez. It reflects a deep commitment to reconnecting with the family's roots on the left bank of the Bibei River, in the villages of Manzaneda and Pobla de Trives. In fact, the river marks the boundary between the Valdeorras and Ribeira Sacra appellations. Dominio do Bibei's vineyards lie at the western edge of the Ribeira Sacra region. In this rugged, mountainous terrain with steep slopes, the lack of generational renewal has resulted in the abandonment of viticulture.

Since 1995, the purchase of small plots of land has allowed the estate to gather 140 hectares, with over 30 hectares under vine. Restoring the abandoned terraces and resuming viticulture, however, proved far more challenging. Today, a beautiful oasis of vineyards thrives on a large north-facing slope rising from 350 to almost 900 m elevation. The soils are dominated by schist and granite.

Dominio do Bibei is the winery's most ambitious red wine and the only one that does not include Mencía in the blend. Here, the spotlight is on Brancellao, a late-ripening local variety that makes up 95% of the blend. The remaining 5% comprises Mouratón (also known as Juan García) and Grao Negro, a variety with red-coloured pulp.

Antonio Casares, a Galician scientist from Monforte de Lemos who wrote the book Observaciones sobre el cultivo de la vid en Galicia (Observations on Vine Cultivation in Galicia) in 1843, described Brancellao as “the most widely planted variety in Galicia, grown in most vineyards in Rivero, Amandi, Lemos, Quiroga, Valdeorras and the Monterrei valley. Despite its low yields, this variety is long-lived and produces strong wines capable of ageing. Given the long time it takes to ripen, it is only suitable for warm areas.”  

Despite the difficulties involved in completing the cycle, the quality and character of this variety are beyond doubt. Additionally, due to its long cycle, it is an excellent option in a context of climate change.

This wine is made from Brancellao grapes grown at an elevation of between 250 and 550 m. The 15- to 65-year-old vines are both trellised and goblet-trained. Despite the warm conditions in 2020, the grapes were harvested between 30 September and 1 October, with sufficient rainfall at key moments. The grapes were destemmed and selected berry by berry. Fermentation took place in wooden vats with indigenous yeasts, and malolactic fermentation in 500-litre French oak barrels, where the wine aged for a further 24 months. It then spent six months in foudre before being bottled.

Although it may seem like a long ageing process for a Galician red, the influence of oak is subtle. Brancellao has innate elegance, far removed from the rusticity that Mencía can sometimes exhibit. This juicy, fragrant wine has aromas of wild berries, spices (black pepper) and dried flowers. While not structured, it has depth, as well as enough weight and acidity to develop over time. A very good Galician red wine at a reasonable price considering all it has to offer.

14% abv.
3,000 bottles
€55 
Score: 95