BWW 2025, growing in every direction

Held from the 3rd to the 5th of February,  Barcelona Wine Week (BWW) has reinforced its position as the leading trade fair for Spanish wine. The 2025 edition set new records in terms of surface area, exhibitors, visitors and international buyers (see chart below). According to BWW president Xavier Pagès, the goal now is to establish it as "the fair of added value for Spanish wine." 

For now, BWW remains a strong showcase of diversity,  bringing together a wide range of wine producers, from large groups of wineries to small-scale vignerons  making just a few thousand bottles.

This year, the event expanded with the addition of a new pavilion across the main avenue of the Montjuïc Exhibition Centre. To ensure a smooth flow of visitors from Pavilion 8, where the fair has been held in previous years, the organisers relocated the Rioja and Castilla y León wine regions, led by Rueda and Ribera del Duero, to the new space, as well as two of the most popular stages: the Speakers' Corner and the Tasting Area. 

Céline Pérez, director of BWW, sees room for growth while maitaining the fair’s essence as a purely Spanish event. “Perhaps a guest country could be considered in the future, but being at home should be seen as an opportunity for wineries, so they don’t have to look for added value at other fairs," she said at a press breakfast.

According to María Naranjo, head of agri-food at ICEX, BWW’s success is the result of several fortunate factors: "It is the first fair in the wine trade calendar, it does not compete with others, it has a modern approach that other events are trying to emulate, it lasts the right number of days, and it has struck the right balance between big brands and small producers." 

Naranjo was pleased that major brands had finally been "attracted to the fair". Looking ahead to the next edition, she announced an increased budget allocated to bringing in international buyers. “The fact that they want to come is the best proof of the fair's success," she said. 

The organisation reported that buyers from 60 countries particularly valued the presence of lesser-known, small appellations, new grape varieties, sustainability-oriented producers and personal stories of dedication and commitment. 

A powerful attraction

The fair has also established itself as a meeting place for the trade. BWW was the chosen venue for the Best Sommelier of Catalonia competition, which was won by Belgian sommelier Cyril Vermeulen of El Celler de Can Roca. It also hosted the first edition of the Star Wine List Spain Awards, which awarded the Grand Prix for Best Wine List to Ambivium, the restaurant of Pago de Carraovejas in Ribera del Duero, and the new Isabel Mijares Awards, promoted by Mujeres del Vino (Women in Wine). Named Best Wine Communicator, our editor, Amaya Cervera, stood along other leading women professionals: Almudena Alberca MW (Personality of the Year), Ana Carazo (Best Winemaker), Audrey Dorée (Best Sommelier), Linda Díez-Morales (Best Brand Ambassador; finally, a recognition for this key area of the wine industry), Beatriz Ochoa (Best Winery Director), Verónica Ortega (Best Winegrower), Cristina Yagüe and María Falcón of Anónimas Viticultoras (Best New Project) and Begoña Rodríguez (Wine Lover Chef, an excellent addition to build bridges with the food business).

With an extensive programme featuring dozens of presentations, tastings, talks and meetings,  –alongisde more than 1,000 wineries showcasing their wines- the biggest challenge at any fair is deciding what to choose.  This is even more difficult given the numerous parallel events taking place  across the city.

In addition to established fixtures such as the Corpinnat base wine tasting on the Sunday before the fair, the alternative walk-about tastings Off the Record and Liquid Vins on Tuesday, and the Women of Wine tasting on Wednesday afternoon, this year saw some new additions. Online wine retailer Decántalo celebrated its 15th anniversary at its new premises in Rubí (Barcelona), while the producer association Futuro Viñador  marked its fifth anniversary with a special tasting. 

You can read a separate article on the Corpinnat tasting, which we attended for the first time. Below is an account of our journey through the fair, a small glimpse of its many possibilities, along with highlights from some parallel events. A second article will feature a selection of 10 wines that caught our attention for the compelling stories behind them.

Old vines, Rioja’s 100th anniversary, Penedès and bubbles

In a way, BWW sets the agenda for some of the major issues surrounding Spanish wine in 2025. Alongside a programme of activities with a strong focus on old vines, the year will be shaped by two major events: the 100th anniversary of DOCa Rioja, with the regional Regulatory Council stepping up its presence at the fair, and Penedès becoming the world's first fully organic appellation. 

Although no formal speech was delivered on the latter, a presentation to introduce the business incubator set up in municipal premises in Vilafranca del Penedès. The president of the DO Penedès, Joan Huguet, referred to "the cycle of poverty caused by poorly paid grapes". Most of the first seven projects involved in this initiative are run by the children of winegrowers seeking to make their properties more profitable. Producing between 1,000 to 3,000 bottles each, the wines vary in style but are generally marked by their freshness. The aim is for these young producers to gain wine business knowledge so that they can establish themselves independently within three to four years.

The small-producer movement appears particularly strong in Catalonia, as demonstrated by the presentation of the Gremi de Vinyaters Lliures -a guild formed in response to sanctions imposed on two producers for alleged labelling irregularities. The organisation now represents 68 winegrowers from across the region, including renowned names such as Raventós i Blanc, Bàrbara Forés, and Mas Martinet, operating both within and outside designated appellations of origin.

Their demands include the right to label wines with village names, vintage, and grape varieties, improved traceability, and a reduction in bureaucratic red tape —much of which, as member Rubén Parera points out, is "often duplicated."

The documentary La Contraetiqueta, by journalist Clara Isamat, chronicles the group’s ongoing struggle, which has at least succeeded in bringing the regional administration to the table. “There seems to be genuine intent and willingness to resolve this,” says Parera. “Both the authorities and the DOs recognise that the law needs to evolve —after all, it makes no sense to have to hide your village name under a postcode.”

To ensure its centenary did not go unnoticed, Rioja secured the largest stand at the fair -100 m2 in total-  featuring a stage for presentations and a selection of 120 wines from across the region. Its flaghip event was a tasting conducted by Spain's Master of Wine Pedro Ballesteros titled “The Buried Heritage of Rioja”,  which featured an eclectic selection of wines from old vines. Ballesteros emphasised the importance of old vines as part of an ecosystem that offers valuable insights about the terroir. The selection included two whites, Amaren Malvasía and Cerro La Isa; a village red from Villabuena, VABN4, made by Bideona, which Ballesteros described as “post-modern”; and two Garnachas from Rioja Oriental: La Marciana, a biodynamic wine requiring long aeration, and Queirón El Arca, voluptuous and expressive from the outset. There was also a single-vineyard red, El Rincón de los Galos, from the Sonsierra co-operative in Rioja Alta; Berta Valgañón's Pretium, from a cold area under the influence of the Obarenes mountain range; a relatively old Barón de Chirel 1996; and Miguel Merino's single-vineyard La Loma, a beautifully textured red that embodies modern, terroir-driven Rioja.

Ballesteros’ rather critical presentation, along with another one led by Fernando Mora MW, suggested that the widely accepted OIV definition of an old vine  -one  older than 35 years-  may be insufficient for many in the wine business.

Although the fair may not have been the ideal setting for a serious discussion on Spain's old-vine heritage, it did provide an opportunity to taste a broad selection of wines made from these venerable vineyards. In addition to the guided tastings, the Wine Tasting Journey area featured 80 samples from a wide range of Spanish regions.

We also attended a tasting on the evolution after disgorgement hosted by the DO Cava and led by Guía Peñín wine critics Carlos González and Javier Luengo. Featuring quality sparkling wines from Mestres, Chozas Carrascal, Juvé y Camps, Parés Baltà and Alta Alella, the session compared recent disgorgements with earlier ones, spanning vintages from 2008 to 2018. While some interesting differences emerged, the longest time span was only a year and a half, leaving open the question of how these wines will evolve after three, four or five years -which should work well for extended ageing cava.

Drought, a major threat

This year, SWL editor Amaya Cervera chaired a panel to discuss water efficiency and the challenges of drought. Speakers included Delfí Sanahuja (Perelada), Diego Pinilla (Raventós Codorníu), Enric Bartra (Incavi), Ángel Anocíbar (Abadía Retuerta) and Carlos Moro (Bodegas Familiares Matarromera). They all stressed the gravity of the current situation and the need for urgent action at all levels -through research, training, technological innovation and continuous monitoring of the soil's ability to retain water and vine productivity. Looking ahead, they agreed that planting new vineyards must take multiple factors into account, including soil characteristics, water availability, vineyard layout, rootstock, grape varieties... It was also pointed out that the use of water extends to the cellar. A revealing fact emerged: producing one litre of wine requires at least three litres of water.

Catalonia, and the Penedès region in particular, has been severely affected by drought. Pepe Hidalgo Camacho, who took over as technical director of Juvé & Camps a year ago, is now mapping each plot, harvesting based on malic acid levels, avoiding malolactic fermentation in cava and restructuring some vineyards. He pointed out that Chardonnay is becoming less important in the area, with Garnacha being planted this year and Sumoll to follow next year. Meanwhile, Pinot Noir-based sparkling wines such as La Siberia are becoming increasingly difficult to make, although Hidalgo says that this variety, along with Xarel.lo, provide lots of salinity. The excellent and refined 2015 La Siberia will be followed by 2016 and 2018, but no other vintages have been made since.

Futuro Viñador

One of the most anticipated events was the tasting organised by Futuro Viñador to celebrate its fifth anniversary at Metrònom, a venue in the Born district . The association pursues "a dynamic, open approach that integrates sustainability, viticulture and winemaking". It was also a good opportunity to update its current members. While founding wineries such as Guímaro, Lupier, Ponce and Suertes del Marqués are no longer in the group, new members include Luis Pérez (Jerez), Doniene Gorrondona (Bizkaiko Txakolina), Miguel Merino (Rioja), Soca-Rel (Mallorca) and Anna Espelt (Cap de Creus). The idea of tasting "outstanding vintages" was very appealing, as it gave attendees the opportunity to taste wines that are no longer on the market.

Some producers selected challenging vintages, such as 2013. This created fascinating contrasts –for instance, the firm and austere Peñas Aladas from Dominio del Águila (Ribera del Duero)  could be compared with a delicate, mineral and lively Algueira Merenzao (Ribeira Sacra) and the taut and finely textured 4 Kilos (Mallorca). While Willy Pérez's La Barajuela from this vintage showed amazing depth and length, the white Remelluri (honeyed fruit, petrol notes, smooth) was a reminder that 2013 wasn't bad at all for white Rioja.

Other interesting white Riojas were the fresh and consistent Lore de Ostatu 2015 and Miguel Merino 2018, with complex petrol aromas. Txakoli Doniene 2018 offered honeyed notes and an excellent balance between fruit and acidity. Other highlights were the slow evolution of the red As Caborcas 2014 from Valdeorras and the 2019 vintage of Artuke La Condenada, with generous fruit and a chalky finish.

Off the Record and Liquid Vins

For many, the second day of the fair requires either meticulous planning or a simple but difficult decision between the three essential locations of the day: BWW, Off the Record, and Liquid Vins. Always busy bees at SWL, we opted to cover all three.

At Off the Record —the longest-running alternative show organised by producer Fredi Torres— we sampled wines from Adrianna Catena and Alejandro Vigil, the Argentine duo behind El Enemigo. Their new El Reventón project in Gredos started on the 2022 vintage with La Reina, a seven-hectare vineyard in San Juan de la Nava, alongside two others previously owned by the Landi family: El Reventón and San Gregorio. Their winemaking approach includes whole-cluster fermentation, long yet gentle macerations, and ageing in a mix of used oak and stainless steel. “Gredos has extraordinary potential,” Adrianna told us. “We’re learning as we go, but we’re excited to create something special here.”

Other first-time exhibitors included Muchada-Léclapart, who showcased the vibrant Lumière 2021, Etérea Kripan, the Rioja Alavesa project by Melanie Hickman, and Pandemonium, a new range of sparkling wines from Vintae, produced at 700–900 metres elevation outside the DOCa Rioja. “We have the same thermal range as Epernay, a north-facing orientation, and a cool climate,” explained Pedro Balda, Vintae’s R&D director, who believes the area’s potential for climate-resistant viticulture is significant. “We’re not ruling out the possibility of creating a new DO here.”

We were impressed by the elegance of Fulcro (Rías Baixas), Mixtura (no DO), Carlos Sánchez (Rioja), and Artazu (Navarra), while also discovering new releases from veteran producers. Among them was the ever-innovative Zorzal, presenting two new reds. In collaboration with Fredi Torres, they have launched Tifero, a village Garnacha from a vineyard planted in 1979. The Zorzal family are also embarking on an ambitious project to craft Garnacha wines from historically significant villages across Navarra —sourcing fruit from Eslava, San Martín de Unx, and Tierra Estella to complement their existing Golerga from Lerga, a cool, rainy area in Baja Montaña. Debuting at Off the Record was 072.5, named after the exact kilometre reading from the Zorzal winery to the vineyard in Eslava. Made from 70-year-old plots selected from the village cooperative, this delicate yet persistent wine is limited to just 1,000 bottles and will retail for €30.

This year, the Liquid Vins tasting moved to the spacious Metrònom hall in the Born district, where the event’s smooth organisation allowed attendees to engage with producers and taste their wines in a relaxed setting. Hosts Marc Letcha and Marta Puparelli also took turns at the table with La Vía Líquida, their artisanal wine brand from Montseny, featuring the fresh and fluid Mecanic, made from a vineyard planted in 1945.

Nearby, Aragonese winemakers Jorge Temprado and Juan Vicente Alcañiz Rubus, both from the technical team at Bodegas San Alejandro (Calatayud), presented their personal projects. Saúl Gil Berzal, who left DOCa Rioja at the end of last year, displayed his full range of single-vineyard wines and his village wine. Although he could have kept the DOCa Rioja designation on pre-departure vintages, he chose instead to relabel everything. In a clever move, and thanks to the official winery name Gil Berzal de Laguardia S.C., he has ensured that Laguardia —the site of his vineyards and winery— still appears on his labels.

Among the more established names, Cerrón ranout of wine by mid-afternoon, while 4 Kilos introduced their latest white, Llampuga Vinícola, a blend of Malvasía and Premsal. Dominique Roujou, with his Teimosía reds from O Rosal, was also at the show along with young rising talents focused on terroir-driven expressions like Álvaro Loza, who impressed with his deep, energetic reds. Meanwhile, Cantalapiedra has stopped to sell grapes to instead vinify everything in-house and he’s also extending Verdejo’s oak ageing to 24–30 months for greater complexity.

We also met Clandelvino, a young couple from Cuéllar (Segovia) dedicated to reviving Pirulés (also known as Jaén), which they bottle under the name La Reina del Mambo. Their portfolio also includes Tempranillo, Verdejo, and Garnacha, all crafted using natural winemaking methods.

Women, the eternal underdogs 

In previous editions of BWW, women have been under-represented in the programme of activities. While some progress has been made, this year, the overall balance remained uneven. Women were given prominent roles as panel moderators, and a few all-female panels were included –yet many discussions still featured exclusively male speakers. This is hardly best way to enhace the visibility of women in the wine industry. When will we see a fair and considered approach to selecting speakers –one that truly reflects the significant presence of wome across all sectors of the wine world?

And now, a little self-criticism: Is it really appropriate that the winners and finalists of the Isabel Mijares Awards, organised by Mujeres del Vino, receive a package of skincare creams and a lipo-reducing treatment? There are still far too many stereotypes to fight against.