Berroja Lento Latido 2023 White

The ability of the Txakoli regions to produce complex age-worthy whites with a certain capacity for development in the bottle seems beyond doubt. Perhaps the greatest challenge is getting the message across to consumers –a task this wine can help accomplish.

Berroja is a unique estate within DO Bizkaiko Txakolina, as it was designed from the outset in a château-like style, with the vineyard surrounding the winery. In fact, it is the reallisation of a dream -and the pride- of José Angel Carrero, who originally bought a caserío (Basque farmhouse) in the rural area of Ajuria (Muxika, near Gernika) as a weekend home, only to transform it into a lifelong project.

The location is spectacular: a hill covered with vineyards on all its slopes, basking in sunlight, above the valley fog, and offering breathtaking views of Urdaibai, a natural enclave declared a Biosphere Reserve in 1984.  

For a long time, the wine range was limited to the young txakoli Aguirrebeko and Berroja, aged in stainless steel tanks. Lento Latido was born during the pandemic, when slow sales and reduced winery activity led to extended ageing. In essence, it is Aguirrebeko with at least one year in the tank. The blend remains the same: 85% Hondarrabi Zuri, 10% Riesling and a hint of 5% Hondarrabi Zuri Zerratia and Mune Mahatsa (Folle Blanche) from different parcels of the estate. Thanks to this natural stabilisation in tank, the wine is unfiltered before bottling. The wine is labelled 'Berezia', a category created by the DO Bizkaiko Txakolina for wines aged on the lees or fermented in barrels.

Tasting Lento Latido alongside Aguirrebeko, as we did a few weeks ago, is particularly revealing, even though the wines were not from the same vintage. In Aguirrebeko 2024, the fruit and, above all, the bracing acidity typical of young local whites, stood out. Lento Latido, by contrast, was much more complex, with hints of citrus and lemon peel, alongside attractive petrol aromas. The palate is fuller and more consistent, with a mineral finish reminiscent of hot stones and good length. Given the small price difference ( €12 vs €15-18), Lento Latido  stands out as an excellent buy.

The wine is available on the winery's website for €15 a bottle, with discounts for purchases of three and six bottles. Berroja\'s main market outside Spain is the US, where it is available through Bridge Imports.

12,5% abv.
6,500 botellas
15-18 €
Score: 92