A quick exploration of txakoli: new trends and wines

A couple of weeks ago, Bilbao hosted Gure Ardoak, the first professional trade fair dedicated to  wines and other beverages from the Basque Country. Organised by the Basque government, the event brought together 101 producers, primarily from Rioja Alavesa, alongisde txakoli makers from all three provinces, as well as cider, beer and spirits producers. 

The exhibition provided a great opportunity to catch up with all things txakoli following our in-depth coverage in 2020, when we explored the region in the midst of the pandemic.

Getaria: beyond added CO₂

At Gure Ardoak, we discovered some interesting wines and producers. DO Getaria, home to 31 wineries, 464 hectares of vineyards, and an annual production of 2.5 million litres of txakoli, remains dominated by fresh, young wines made for quick consumption—often with added CO₂ for an extra spritz. However, some producers are pushing the boundaries.

At Arbela (meaning “slate” in Basque), the focus is on the slate soils found in Aia, a subzone within Getariako Txakolina. Their lineup includes the newly launched Arbela Mari Brut Nature sparkling wine, as well as the entry-level Arbela and the richer Arbela Enbata, which gains depth from lees ageing. These wines combine freshness with minerality, priced between €10 and €20. The project benefits from the expertise of consultant winemakers Héctor Gómez and Maitane Barrero, known for their own txakoli, Adur.

Another standout was the Blai & Blai range, particularly their Orange Txakoli (€15) —a skin-contact wine made from Hondarrabi Zuri grapes macerated for 15 days. This technique enhances texture while preserving the variety’s characteristic freshness. A rare style in the region, Blai & Blai also apply it to Sakona 2023, which blends coastal grapes with riper fruit from inland Oñati, where the winery is located, macerated for four days. While still in the early stages of development, their experimental approach signals an exciting future.

Meanwhile, K5, the winery backed by celebrity chef Karlos Arguiñano, is set to release its first sparkling wine in July —a 2024 pet-nat made from Hondarrabi Zuri. This fresh, easy-drinking alternative complements the more structured and ageworthy txakolis in their range, such as K5 (older vintages available via their website) and Kaiaren 2016. The latter, aged on lees for 48 months and in bottle since 2021 (6,700 bottles, €39), showcases Hondarrabi Zuri’s acidity, layered with ripe fruit, smoked notes, and a saline finish.

Bizkaia: lees and longevity

Of the three txakoli DOs, Bizkaia is probably the most dynamic. Its commitment to protecting diverse styles within the DO has opened up possibilities for the most curious producers to explore the soils and areas of the region and transfer this knowledge to their winemaking. One of the wineries that has made the most of this opportunity is Itsasmendi, which has recently launched an attractive range of single vineyard wines named Paradisuak. It was the first txakoli producer to make a wine with ageing potential in 2003 and it continues to look for ways to increase the longevity of its wines. We confirmed this with the magnum of Itsasmendi 7 2018 (€31.50) that Iñaki Suárez, technical director of the DO, presented at one of the show's tastings: good evolution, pleasant bitterness and notes of petrol on the finish. Another example of the ability of well-made txakoli to last over time.

A newcomer to watch is Lvre Wines, co-founded by winemaker Guillermo Iturriondobeitia and Basque-Californian music producer Rafa Sardina. Their debut wine, Xuxur 2022 (€17), is made from grapes grown in Orozko and Arrankudiaga, drier inland areas where fruit ripens earlier than in the coast. Aged on lees for eight months in stainless steel (without bâtonnage), it delivers honeyed peach and quince notes, wrapped in juicy acidity. The name Xuxur, derived from Xuxurla (whisper in Basque), reflects its delicate yet persistent character. With current production at 10,000 bottles and potential to expand to 30,000, the winery is also preparing to launch Ailur, a more structured txakoli aged in stainless steel and oak. Lvre, whose winery is in Orozko, also have another wine on the market; called Landazuri, it is a partnership with the Spanish musician Enrique Bunbury.

Txakoli Galanta, founded in 2019 in Galdakao, also caught our attention with Berez Galanta G2 2021 (€22). Aged on lees, this wine bridges styles: bottled in Rhine-style glass, typical of Gipuzkoa’s young txakolis, yet boasting the textural depth often associated with Bizkaia. Herbaceous and balsamic notes add freshness and complexity. Notably, it features a screw cap —a rarity in txakoli. Their vineyards were planted in 2011, mostly to Hondarrabi Zuri.
Another highlight was Oxer Bastegieta’s wines, both from Rioja and Txakoli. They are all at great level, including Terlegiz 2022 (€58, 1,200 bottles), an elegant txakoli that blends four white varieties aged on lees in foudre for eight months. The result is both balanced and enveloping.

Promotion, tariffs and invisible women

Overall, Gure Ardoak was a well-organised and valuable event, combining stand visits with guided tastings aimed at the hospitality sector and led by professionals such as Iñaki Suárez, technical director of the DO Bizkaiko Txakolina, sommelier Telmo Iruretagoiena and José Ignacio Junguitu, winemaker and head of Junguitu. Shall we talk about wine? Without underestimating their work, it struck us that there was not a single woman among the six experts who conducted the tastings. How is it possible that at a public event of this calibre no effort is made to normalise the role and presence of women in the wine sector, at all levels? Given the Basque Country’s wealth of talented female sommeliers, winemakers, and communicators, this lack of representation was disappointing.

On a broader scale, the Basque government is committed to promoting its wine sector, both locally and internationally. Imanol Pradales, president of the Basque government, attended the fair, encouraging Basque wine consumption domestically while also addressing export challenges. He highlighted ongoing global economic uncertainty and the impact of tariffs imposed by the Trump administration, warning producers: “You already suffered them in his first term.”

Despite these challenges, Basque PDO packaged wine exports remain strong, accounting for 12.2% of Spain’s total volume. Between January and October 2024, turnover rose 5% to €191.7 million, with the US leading in value and the UK in volume.