Custero 2018 Tinto

Roberto Oliván pays tribute to cosechero wines with this whole-cluster, field blend red. Grapes are sourced from his youngest (4-7 years old) vineyards. Garnacha, the dominant grape, is mixed with eight different white and red varieties, a common practice in traditional vineyards. Ageing takes place in cement and oak. This is a refined version of the somewhat rustic wines of yesteryear (so is its label) showing pure, precise fruit and fantastic texture. A brilliant idea. 16.5 points