After an initial attempt that never came to fruition in 2014, Alma Carraovejas’ project in Rioja took on a definitive shape from 2020 onwards, when the group began sourcing grapes from Cupani with a view to producing its first wines. Shortly afterwards, Pedro Ruiz Aragoneses, CEO of the Ribera del Duero–based group of wineries, seized the opportunity to acquire a former grower’s cellar in Leza. This became the starting point for a far-reaching architectural transformation, reshaping the building in line with Aiurri’s philosophy: functionality, respect for the environment and a contemporary interpretation of the Rioja Alavesa landscape.
The refurbishment included a generous fermentation hall fitted with vats made from different materials —concrete, wood and stainless steel— along with large windows opening directly onto the vineyards and the striking backdrop of the Sierra Cantabria. The two-level barrel cellar, inspired by Château Pavie, is made from stone and wood in a modern setting designed to convey the character of the area. Significantly, all the original stonework was replaced with traditional ashlar stone from the village itself, further strengthening the link with Leza.
Today, Aiurri farms 26.7 hectares of estate vineyards, divided into some 60 very small plots averaging just 0.20 hectares each. A substantial proportion qualifies as old vines: more than 70% were planted before 1980. All the vineyards lie within Rioja Alavesa, spread across Navaridas, Laguardia, Elciego and, above all, Leza, a village at 550 metres above sea level whose patchwork of small parcels has barely changed over time. Aiurri, which still buys Cupani grapes for its entry-level wine, is also the only winery currently producing wine from this small village.
The Salas vineyard, covering 2.7 hectares, is both the jewel in the crown and the project’s greatest challenge. Planted mainly to Tempranillo and Viura, with smaller amounts of Mazuelo and Garnacha, it suffers from a high percentage of missing vines. Restoring the vitality of the vineyard is a top priority, tackled through an ambitious replanting programme underpinned by detailed row-by-row mapping —carried out both manually and with drones— launched in 2024 and followed by the first replantings in 2025. Calcareous-silty soils, a traditional vineyard shelter (guardaviñas) and the differing orientations of its two main sectors all add to the site’s distinctiveness.
Viticulture that looks ahead
Viticulture at Aiurri is thoughtful and site-focused, with careful soil management, conversion to organic certification under way and biodynamic trials in the Salas vineyard. Consultancy from Simonit & Sirch extends across the whole group and includes Aiurri, with particular emphasis on pruning and achieving balanced vines. Leaf removal is avoided to protect the grapes from phenolic imbalance, although airflow within the canopy is encouraged. Replanting is an ongoing task —up to 30% in some plots— supported by genetic identification work that has revealed the presence of lesser-known varieties and biotypes such as Garnacha Gris, Bobal, Maturana Tinta and Benedicto, alongside different Tempranillo selections.
In the cellar, winemaker Neza Sktr and her team apply double grape selection, no crushing, gravity-fed winemaking and spontaneous fermentations. Each parcel is vinified separately through to the end of ageing, in vessels ranging from 500 to 4,000 kg. Ageing combines large foudres, wooden vats, concrete, stainless steel and French oak barrels of varying sizes. Bottling is carried out using the group’s own mobile bottling line, which travels by lorry between its different estates.
Three wines
The range is built around three reds that the estate defines as a regional wine, a village wine and a single-vineyard expression, outside Rioja’s official classification system. In all three cases, the first vintage was 2021.
Landua (34,800 bottles, €22) sits at the base of the pyramid. From the 2022 vintage onwards it is bottled in a Burgundy-style bottle and is sourced mainly from 50- to 80-year-old vines in San Vicente and Leza, planted to Tempranillo with smaller proportions of Graciano, Garnacha and a handful of white vines. It ferments spontaneously with gentle extraction and spends 12 months in French oak barrels, followed by seven months in concrete. The wine stands out for its clear definition of black fruit, subtle spice notes and well-judged depth.
Aiurri (13,000 bottles, €42) is the wine from Leza, an assemblage of parcels and varieties (mostly Tempranillo, with some Garnacha and Graciano) vinified individually. After 16 months in French oak barrels of different sizes, the components are blended and rest for a further three months in concrete. The warm 2022 vintage, currently on the market, shows ripe black fruit alongside toasted and vanilla notes, with structure and clear ageing potential, while 2023 offers a fresher, more mineral profile.
Salas (2,500 bottles, €89) represents the project’s single-vineyard expression. It comes entirely from the Salas plot in Leza, planted with centenarian vines of Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano and Viura. Harvesting takes place in two phases, two weeks apart, reflecting the vineyard’s internal diversity. Forty per cent of the wine is aged in concrete amphorae, while the remainder spends 18 months in barrels of different sizes. After blending, ageing continues for a further nine months in amphorae and barrels. The result is a deep, mineral, savoury and elegant wine, notably expressive and with strong ageing potential.
For the time being, Aiurri is not open to wine tourism.