Located in Sardón de Duero, just beyond the boundaries of Ribera del Duero (although some parts of the estate lie within the appellation), Santa María de Retuerta is one of the region’s historic properties. Its beautiful abbey bears witness to a winemaking tradition which gradually faded and eventually disappeared. In the 1990s, financial acking from pharmaceutical group Novartis helped launch an ambitious project. Today, the estate has 200 hectares under vine within a 700-hectare property.

French winemaker Pascal Delbeck, who oversaw the vineyard plantings and the production of the first vintages (1996 was the first release), has remained a valuable consultant. Working closely with technical director Ángel Anocíbar, he helped restore the estate to its former winemaking glory.

The vineyard is divided into 54 plots that slope down towards the River Duero. Tempranillo dominates, though the estate also grows the French varieties Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Petit Verdot. Verdejo and Sauvignon Blanc are the main white grapes.

Climate change

In recent years, the focus has shifted towards grape varieties considered better equipped to cope with climate change, like Garnacha, Graciano and Malbec. Further trials are under way with Touriga Nacional, Nebbiolo, Sangiovese, Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Godello and the local white variety Albillo Mayor. Experimental wines made from these varieties are available at the winery and through its online store as part of the Winemaker’s Collection range.

From the outset, Abadía Retuerta labelled its wines as VT Castilla y León, giving it the freedom to grow varieties not allowed under the DO Ribera del Duero rules. Since 2022, the estate has had its own DOP Vino de Pago.

The winery uses gravity-fed vinification with small crane-operated tanks, alllowing each plot to be handled separately. Ageing is all done in French oak. Winemaking practices have evolved in response to the characteristics of the vineyard and the climate. When the vines were younger,  greater concentration was the priority; today lower fermentation temperatures and shorter maceration periods are standard practice. Another key factor is the use of grape varieties that help compensate for Tempranillo’s naturally low acidity. Anocíbar points out that, in recent harvests affected by heatwaves, the traditional relationship between variety and harvesting dates has become less predictable. The soil’s ability to retain water, meanwhile, is emerging as a decisive factor.

The wines

Selección Especial (around €33 in Spain and 16 months' ageing) is the estate’s flagship wine. Production is just under half a million bottles, with the blend varying from 75% to 60% Tempranillo, plus Cabernet Sauvignon and a small percentage of Syrah and/or Merlot. It is one of the leading red wines in the area and can sometimes outshine other Riberas in the same price bracket. The winery has traditionally focused on building its brand and capitalising on its location in the so-called “Golden Mile”, where renowned wineries such as Vega Sicilia and Pingus are found alongside the N-122 road.

The single vineyard, single varietal reds retail for between €75 and €100, with production ranging from 5,000 to 20,000 bottles. The best-known labels are Tempranillo Pago Negralada and Cabernet Sauvignon Pago Valdebellón, but Syrah-based Pago Garduña and the Petit Verdot, of which fewer than 1,000 bottles are produced and which cost over €100, are both worth trying.

Cuvée Palomar has been relaunched to showcase the estate’s work adapting to climate change. After a soft launch in the 2017 and 2018 vintages, with production limited to just over 1,000 bottles, the 2019 vintage marked the official debut of the new Cuvée Palomar (15,000 bottles, €55). The aim is to obtain sufficient acidity and a balanced pH without the need for corrective adjustments. Thus, the choice and quantity of each variety may vary depending on vintage conditions. In 2019, Tempranillo accounted for 52% of the blend, alongside Garnacha and Graciano. In 2021, it was limited to 23% making more room for Garnacha and Graciano, as well as Syrah, Merlot and Malbec.

The range is completed by the barrel-aged white wine, Le Domaine (around €42, 13,000 bottles). Made in the style of a Bordeaux white, it offers a stark contrast to Rueda's neighbouring white specialists.

30th anniversary

To mark its 30th anniversary, Abadía Retuerta is launching a limited-edition red wine and releasing a collection of old vintages under the name Time & Terroir. A particular highlight is the 2016 single vineyard collection featuring Pago Negralada, Pago Valdebellón and Pago Garduña. The year produced well-balanced wines and a relatively generous crop. The 2016 vintage is also included in the Selección Especial case, alongside the 2006 and 2012 vintages. Other releases include a case containing Le Domaine 2019, 2020 and 2021 and another one with Pago Negralada Tempranillo 2008, 2014 and 2016.

The anniversary wine, Abadía Retuerta XXX 2016, showcases the estate's recent work with different grape varieties, blending 38% Syrah from Pago Garduña, 32% Tempranillo from Pago Negralada, and 14% Merlot, 8% Graciano, 4% Petit Verdot and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon from Pago de Valdebellón. The result is a fresh, minty and spicy red with a juicy palate, an elegant texture and a long finish. Its exclusivity is reflected in the price: €317.

A leading Duero estate

The beautifully restored abbey houses the luxurious five-star Le Domaine hotel, which is a member of Relais & Châteaux. It also accommodates two restaurants, Vinoteca and the Michelin-starred Refectorio, as well as the Santuario Spa and a growing art collection. While the hotel anchors a comprehensive wine tourism offering, the winery has its own wine store and wine bar, Calicata.

Managing such a vast estate involves more than just the vineyard itself. In recent years, Abadía Retuerta has implemented an extensive reforestation programme, planting over 100,000 pine and holm oak trees. The estate also has its own vegetable garden, Huerta de los Monjes, which supplies the hotel and its restaurants. It also sells its own produce such as honey and pine nuts, as well as wine salt, for use as a culinary seasoning.