You could say that the UK’s first bar to focus solely on wines from Spain’s most famous wine region is like a tiny piece of Logroño’s Calle Laurel in King’s Cross. And although the glass case of pintxos on the counter (£2.50 each) is certainly evocative of Northern Spain, really it’s a much more refined experience.
For a start, asking for a glass of “cosechero” or “a Crianza” wouldn’t get you that far… there are over 40 wines on the list and they cover every imaginable style from the region. Unoaked and oaked reds and whites, traditional blends and terroir-focused wines, sparkling, rosé and even sweet; all are available by 75ml sample or 125ml glass as well as by the bottle; with prices ranging from £3.90 – 22.90 per taster. In fact, the only thing they don’t have much of is your standard Crianza!
The range of whites is particularly impressive. In the “Unoaked Young” category, Jarrarte Blanco from Abel Mendoza shows the fragrant tropical aromas that can be coaxed from a blend of five native varieties. Among the “Big Gun Whites”, the layered textures of wax and minerals in Remirez de Ganuza Blanco Reserva 2019 contrast with the nutty oak opulence of Marqués de Murrieta Capellanía 2017.
As for the reds, many will want to stick to classic Reservas or Gran Reserva blends from the likes of Beronia, Marqués de Riscal, Muga and Ramón Bilbao. But the more adventurous can travel across Rioja’s different microclimates with village wines: from the poised red fruit of Villa Cardiel (Bodegas Altún) from Laguardia in Rioja Alavesa; to the vibrant generosity of Queirón Mi Lugar from Quel in Rioja Oriental.
Customers may relish the chance to taste so many wines alongside one another, but if looking to buy whole bottle, there are some really special Viñedo Singular wines such as El Cristo de Samaniego 2018 from Bodegas Amaren (£75). From vines planted in 1980, it shows fleshy raspberry and blueberry fruit and the characteristic chalky length of Rioja Alavesa. It could be paired with the suckling pig from Segovia with a truffle and Amontillado sherry jus (£10.50), or the well-hung Galician fillet steak (£13.50/100g). Please do as the Spanish and ask for the latter medium-rare, the marbled flesh deserves a light searing rather than cremation!
If you are craving more habitual Spanish tapas, the short menu (made in sister restaurant Camino, just across the courtyard) also includes croquetas de jamón, patatas bravas and pimentos de padrón (£6.50-7.50) as well as several more imaginative dishes.
To prove the region really can do it all, Marco Fabio Moscatel from Bodegas Ontañón (£6.00/75ml) rounds things off perfectly. Dripping with ripe peach and pear, it makes a sweet contrast to the salty Cameros goat’s cheese and Valdeón blue from the artisanal cheese selection (£15.50).
Bar Rioja is a fantastic showcase of what is currently one of the world’s most exciting wine regions, albeit at fair prices for London rather than Logroño (if only!).
