When it opened its doors in 2006, A Fuego Negro became one of the most unique pintxo bars in San Sebastian. Edorta Lamo not only applied an alternative and provocative concept to his miniature cuisine but also to the atmosphere of the place, both modern and with jazz and funk vibes in the background (they have their own lists in Spotify).
Now Lamo is once again on the spotlight with Arrea, his restaurant in Santa Cruz de Campezo, a village in Montaña Alavesa (inland Basque Country) at the confluence of Rioja Alavesa and Navarra where Lamo has his family roots. It is in this rural environment, so distant in substance and form from Donosti, where, in his words, he seeks to " revive the local culture, which has been neglected, undervalued and forgotten by the majority, even by its population".
The place where Lamo offers this deeply-rooted cuisine is the old telephone house, comprehensively restored and divided into three cozy spaces decorated with timber: the bar, a sort of open-plan village tavern with a kitchen where pintxos, sandwiches and wines are served by the glass; the stable or cuadra next door with high tables for snacking and where diners can enjoy the menu of the day (€16) and the daily stew (€8); and a dining room with access to an outdoor space where the Arrea (€95) and Basati (€125) menus are served. These long menus (Basati is all game-based) are a careful and personal expression of Lamo's "furtive cuisine" whereas the "Mendialdea" option (€38, only lunchtime) is a selection of starters, putxero (stew), fish and dessert.
On the day of our visit we enjoyed the last option, which included a tasty mountain paté with bacon and medlar jam and simple but delicious home-made pickles made from elderflower, cauliflower, pumpkin, carrot and garlic. These starters were followed by a locally-sourced chickpea putxero (pot) with cabbage and pork ears served in traditional white and blue camping dishes, trout with cauliflower and roe deer. They are all hearty dishes based on local recipes, flavours and traditions that Lamo seeks to bring to light.
The wine list is one of the most varied and complete in this inland Basque province and is reasonably priced. It has been put together by a wine merchant who is a friend of Lamo's, but it departs from the predictable and boring offer of many of the bars and restaurants in the Basque Country, which tend to settle for half a dozen well-known Rioja brands and little else. The Mendialdea set menu includes a bottle of Txiguito, a red made by Bodegas Valdemar for Arrea!, and Roberto Oliván (Tentenublo) also makes another red for them called Trueke, which is available by the glass or bottle.
In addition to a brief but very respectable offer of wines by the glass -remember that Arrea is in a mountain village, far from the motorway- the list includes around 60 wines by the bottle, mainly of Rioja Alavesa but also of txakoli, other areas of Spain including sherry, a handful of Champagnes and wines from areas as exotic in these lands as Jura, Germany, Austria, New Zealand or Argentina. The staff is friendly and helpful and the young sommelier compensates her lack of experience with humility, professionalism and desire to learn. We are looking forward to going back. Y.O.A.
