Established in 1962, Kaia-Kaipe is an institution among wine producers who drive the 125 kilometres (77 miles) separating Rioja from the Basque town of Getaria to revel in its large and well stocked cellar and feast on delicious fish cooked on the restaurant’s outdoor grill.
Eating at Kaia-Kaipe isn’t cheap, but food prices compensante the chance to try some great wines at reasonable prices among the 40,000 bottles and over 1,000 brands stored in its cellar.
Reds, particularly from Rioja, are Kaia’s speciality so the dilemma for wine lovers is whether to order, say, a Contino Reserva 1994 (€24) or go for a mini vertical of Monte Real, Viña Real, Prado Enea or other classic Riojas before they enter the restaurant’s 4,000-strong bottle collection, which is not for sale.
When owner Igor Arregui notices that some oldest vintages are scarce on the restaurant’s wine list, he moves the remaining bottles to the private collection. Enjoying them with family, friends and “people who appreciate these jewels” is what Igor —a charming and friendly wine nerd— likes to do. Some of them are classics from the twenties, such as Ygay and Riscal 1925, but most of the bottles date from the seventies onwards —a genuine liquid archive from Rioja with the odd vertical of legendary wines like Vega Sicilia Único or Yquem.
Wine is obviously one of Kaia’s strongest points, but the fish and seafood served at its tables do not lag behind. They are cooked in large grills on the street right by the port, as it’s the custom in the restaurants of this seaside town.
A classic among the classics is turbot, grilled over the embers in one whole piece and filleted in front of the customer. It’s absolutely delicious in its simplicity, meaty and tender, and extremely fresh —as much as other classics like bream or chipirones a lo Pelayo (cuttlefish), all caught by local fishermen (arrantzale in Basque). They are brought to this port in the province of Gipuzkoa, the place of birth of navigator Juan Sebastian Elcano, who steered Magellan’s fleet safely home in 1522 after circumnavigating the globe.
Kaia-Kaipe is divided into two different areas. The main dining room upstairs is decorated with hardwood and seafaring furnishings and is known as Kaia (which means port in Basque), while Kaipe (under the port, in Basque) is the more informal open-air terrace by the water where smoking is allowed. Both dining areas are excellent to enjoy the superb food and wines served here —no doubt Elkano would have happily stored a few of those bottles in his ship’s cellars for the long journey. Y.O.A.
