Cuenllas is one of those places that seems to have been around forever in Madrid. Founded by the Cuenllas family in 1939, the business started as a delicatessen where well-to-do families purchased legumes, canned foods, cold meats and other quality produce.
As the business prospered, Cuenllas opened a tapas bar with a small dining room next door to the shop in Argüelles. A third venture, a restaurant adjacent to the bar, did not survive Spain’s recession and closed down some time ago.
Ángel Cuenllas is in charge of the deli, where gourmet products such as cheese, cold meats, olive oil and Iberico ham are still on offer along with a wonderful selection of wines and spirits from around the world, in particular some of the top names in Burgundy, Bordeaux and Champagne.
Ángel’s son Fernando manages the bar next door. As a keen wine aficionado, he is always willing to suggest interesting pairings to go with the menu, which includes traditional tapas and dishes such as ensaladilla rusa (potato salad), canelones al txangurro (cannelloni with spider crab), stewed carrillera (beef cheeks) and contemporary plates such as the delicious Baltic herring with beetroot, roasted apple and Comté cheese.
Service is efficient both at the bar and at the restaurant tables, waited by impeccably mannered personnel wearing white jackets as it used to be the norm in such venerable establishments. Along with tapas, a small selection of wines by the glass is available on the bar. Since he got hold of a Coravin, Fernando is now able to open wines which until now were only sold by the bottle; wines such as Marqués de Riscal Gran Reserva 1983, Ganevat from Jura or Barolo by Oddero, one of the most interesting producers in Piamonte. His sherry offerings are worthy of attention with jewels such as La Bota de Amontillado nº9 still on his shelves.
Both the quality of the products sold at Cuenllas and the service are excellent, but this quality comes at a price. For two diners, expect to pay around 80-90 euros without drinks; with the wine pairing option, the bill can double in price. For a special occasion —or if money is no object— the experience is well worth it. Y.O.A.
