When asked about her beginnings in the wine business, Marta Casas often says love made her a winemaker. While studying pharmacy she met Josep Cusiné, the third generation of the family that owns Parés Baltà in Catalonia's Penedès region, and although she finished her degree and even went on to practice the profession, she decided to enrol in oenology to learn more about the recurring topic of conversation of her future husband, who oversees the commercial and production side of the winery, and the rest of her in-laws.
Her first harvest with the Cusiné family in 2002 proved to be a trial by fire. She was 25 years old, newly married and her father-in-law, Joan Cusiné Cusiné, a man with a larger-than-life personality who was in charge of making the wine, did not make it easy for her: “Back then, I knew nothing and struggled immensely. But I'm still there, doing my internship', jokes Marta, who is now in charge of making all the sparkling wines (DO Cava) and still wines (DO Penedès) at Parés Baltà. She was grateful for the company and advice of her sister-in-law María Elena, a chemical engineer who, like Marta, has become a winemaker at the family winery after marrying Joan Cusiné Carol in 1999, who heads exports.
The transition into winemaking required Marta and Maria Elena to unlearn much of their scientific training. Marta recalls how Joan Cusiné Hill, the family patriarch, would insist they abandon conventional ideas. “When I first met him, he told us to forget what we’d learned because he had always farmed the vineyards in the most natural way possible, without chemicals. For a pharmacist and a chemical engineer, it was a bit of a shock!”
In 2003, the third generation solidified this approach by officially certifying Parés Baltà as organic and expanding its range of still wines. In addition to Ginesta, a Gewurztraminer with no residual sugar that was released that year, they launched several micro-vinifications from different plots. From the Cal Miret estate in Sant Martí Sarroca they produced Hisenda Miret Garnacha, planted by the grandfather in the 1980s, and the age-worthy Electio Xarel.lo, from vines over 90 years old. Another novelty was Blanca Cusiné cava, a blend of Xarel.lo with some Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from the Les Valls-Les Torres vineyard, a tribute to María Elena and Joan's daughter, born in 2002.
Much of Parés Baltà’s success stems from the foresight of grandfather Joan, who always said that the best wines would come from the land that he had bought in the late 1980s and early 1990s in Les Valls-Les Torres, in the Foix river valley at over 600 metres elevation.
Contrary to the majority of growers in the area, he restored the old stone terraces in this wooded and humid area with a wide day-night temperature variation, replanted the east-facing terraces to provide shade in the afternoon and brought sheep into the vineyard. And although he opted for foreign varieties such as Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Merlot and Gewurztraminer, which today are no longer planted as the Cusinés prefer to plant native grapes, Marta and her family recognise the significance of this legacy. "We are fully aware that these vines are our greatest treasure."
The winery in Pacs del Penedès was also acquired by Joan Cusiné Hill. Born in 1917 into a family of winegrowers, he left school at the age of nine but his entrepreneurial spirit helped him to carve out a future as a livestock and property dealer. He also owned a wholesale warehouse selling flour and other products such as bulk sugar to the region's wineries for the secondary fermentation of their sparkling wines. He also had vineyards and a winery in Vilobí where he made bulk base wine for cava. In 1978 he had the opportunity to purchase the Parés Baltà winery and the vineyards surrounding the property founded in 1790 in Pacs del Penedès and Cusiné Hill jumped at the chance.
It was his son Joan Cusiné Cusiné who focused on making traditional and charmat method sparkling wines in the new Parés Baltà winery. Determined like his father, he decided to expand the business and in 1987 he launched Blanc de Pacs, the estate's first still wine followed by the rosé Ros de Pacs and the red Mas Petit from the Els Pujols vineyard in Vilobí. Today, they are the entry-level wines in the Parés Baltá range and are part of the legacy of Cusiné Cusiné, now retired, who also founded the family's wineries in Priorat (Gratavinum) and Ribera del Duero (Dominio Romano).
The Cusiné family owns 600 hectares of land, 200 of which are vineyards planted between 200 and 700 metres elevation. They are distributed in five large estates in the villages of Pacs, Vilobí, Sant Martí Sarroca, Garraf and Les Valls-Les Torres, the latter in the districts of Torrelles de Foix and Pontons.
All the vineyards have been farmed biodynamically since 2012, a natural evolution of the late grandfather's philosophy, which the whole family upholds unwaveringly despite the initial skepticism soften associated with biodynamics and its mystical reputation. Since adopting these methods, they know they are “on the right path.” They grow all the plants they need to make the preparations in their properties and in a beautiful vegetable garden in Pontons, while Marta, an advocate of anthroposophy, shares her knowledge through lectures and workshops in the region. However, one lingering challenge is compost: since the sheep were removed in 2019 due to illness, they have had to source it externally.
The realities of climate change have further solidified their belief in biodynamics as a way to navigate nature’s uncertainties. It has also prompted a reevaluation of the varieties they grow, where they are planted and their vineyard practices to ensure long-term sustainability.
One example of this adaptability is evident in a plot in Les Valls-Les Torres, at 580 metres elevation. Here, they replaced goblet-trained Parellada vines, which were severely affected by esca, with Xarel.lo that now goes into Bassegues, their premium Brut Nature aged for at least 120 months.
Rather than traditional vine training, Josep Cusiné introduced the ‘twister’, a raised goblet system to mitigate humidity issues. "The vines are wrapped around tall acacia stakes," Marta explains. “It’s labour-intensive, requiring skilled pruners, but the grapes benefit from better airflow and reduced bunch overlap. Even Simonit & Sirch’s pruning instructor visited and praised its effectiveness.” They have also adopted this innovative training in their Sumoll vineyard in Pacs, where the umbrella-like leaf canopy shades the grapes from heat and sunlight in this warmer, lower elevation area.
While Les Valls-Les Torres still hosts international varieties like Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, and Gewürztraminer, the family no longer replants these. At the Cal Miret estate, known for single varietal wines like Amphora (Gris, Roja, and Brisat), Electio, Hisenda Miret, and Marta de Baltà, Merlot vines planted by the grandfather have been re-grafted since 2015 with indigenous varieties like Xarel·lo and late-ripening Cariñena Blanca, used in their Satèl·lit wine. Though this Empordà grape isn’t officially recognised in Penedès, the family values its exceptional ageing potential.
Additional indigenous varieties include Garnacha Blanca, Sumoll (re-grafted in the vineyard surrounding the Pacs winery), and Malvasía, which thrives at higher elevations. “Re-grafting is time-consuming and expensive, but it preserves older vineyards, often around 40 years old,” Marta notes. She credits the Penedès Pruning Academy for popularising this method, which has gained traction in the region.
“Experts like Roc Gramona and the rest of the instructors at the Academy have taught us how to adapt pruning techniques to better address climate change while also fostering longer vine lifespans,” says Marta. “You can't appreciate it yet, but in the long term we won't have to uproot vines when they are 30 years old, as we do now. The region is moving away from the old mindset of pushing vineyards to their limits. Instead, young winemakers are embracing quality over quantity, often bypassing cooperatives to craft premium wines. Initiatives like Vida Penedés and Viver de Cellers are revitalising the region.”
Climate change, respectful pruning, grafting, a focus on local varieties and the region’s emerging talent are some of the themes that Marta mentions in her dissertation on the past, present and future of the Penedès. She hopes to complete the prestigious Weinakademiker Diploma at Austria’s Rust Wine Academy, where she has also studied for the WSET Diploma.
"I believe these factors will elevate the value of our grapes and wines. By 2025, Penedès will be the first appellation in the world to be 100% organic. Making good wine is essential, but so is telling a compelling story – there are thousands of quality wines in the world," Marta observes. “It takes time and effort, and we have been championing Xarel.lo, Garnacha, Malvasia and Sumoll for more than 30 years. Now we can also grow Forcada and Moneu thanks to the recovery efforts of Bodegas Torres."
A sense of heritage is deeply woven into their Amphora range. A little further down from the family's new high altitude Garnacha and Xarel.lo plantings lies Les Hortes de Cal Pontons, a site where several Iberian ovens were found, built over 2,000 years ago to fire pots made from a mixture of local clay and river water.
Although chalky soil dominates in the flatter areas, white and red clay is abundant on higher sites. Inspired by this legacy, the Cusiné family decided to craft their own pots using red clay from Les Valls-Les Torres. They hired the expert Carles Llarch, who not only explained the importance of this area in the production of vessels for the ancient trade of wine and other products in the Mediterranean, but also crafted some amphorae with a lining for the cold water inlet and hot water outlet. Although the liner did not work, Marta says that Llarch's amphorae, where they have fermented the Amphora wines since 2013, are the best they have.
Parés Baltà’s 200 hectares of vineyards are managed by a dedicated team of 15, increasing to 35 for pruning and 50 during harvest under the supervision of Josep Cusiné.
After María Elena decided to take a break in 2022, it is Marta who oversees production of their diverse portfolio, which includes over 20 different wines (600,000 bottles of sparkling and 200,000 of still wines). Cava Brut is their main product –the remaining cavas limited to 22,000 bottles per year– primarily exported to Canada, Finland and the United States. In Spain, where they have approximately 30% of their clients, Parés Baltà is working to regain traction in Madrid, formerly one of its key markets, after setbacks from a politically-inspired boycott that impacted some Catalan products severely.
In the ageing room, experimentation thrives. Marta manages amphorae for Sumoll and Moneu, concrete tanks for Malvasía, and demijohns for Sumoll and Cariñena, alongside two soleras for white and sweet red wines. One intriguing project is a fermented drink made from rose petals grown in their vineyards, inspired by Catalan chef Iolanda Bustos. At just 1.5% abv., it offers a promising non-alcoholic option for the future. “We get requests for alcohol-free drinks and we think this is a market that is going to grow.”
Challenges such as drought in the Garraf region and the recent green mosquito infestation, which affected photosynthetic capacity in random vines, underscore the importance of adaptability. Marta remains undeterred and upbeat: “Each challenge is an opportunity to learn and grow. That mindset has always guided us, and I’m confident it will continue to do so.”
Cava Històric 2018 Gran Reserva Brut Nature (13,190 bottles, €17)
At Parés Baltà, where heritage and people are deeply valued, this sparkling wine pays tribute to Joan Cusiné Hill, grandfather of the current generation steering the winery.
A blend of the three traditional cava varieties, it undergoes a minimum of 36 months' ageing without clarification. Since its inaugural 2018 vintage, the wine has been crafted to mirror the style that Joan favoured: golden colour, rich flavour, and memorable. It features a pleasing bitterness that adds a refreshing quality alongside a textured, gripping finish.
Rosa Cusiné 2019 Gran Reserva Brut Nature (8,355 bottles, €30.25)
The role of women at Parés Baltà has always been significant, though in the past some worked anonymously. Rosa Cusiné, Joan Cusiné Hill’s wife, exemplifies this. She passed away just shy of her 101st birthday, and in 2008, the family introduced this cava to celebrate her life and the countless women who have made invaluable yet invisible contributions to the wine industry.
Made from Garnacha grown at 700 metres elevation in Les Valls-Les Torres, the grapes are harvested early to preserve freshness and citrus nuances while retaining the Mediterranean variety’s savoury depth. The result is a refreshing, taut sparkling rosé –possibly one of the finest in the country.
Espígol 2023 (5,432 bottles, €15.50)
Parés Baltà’s commitment to indigenous varieties is evident in their embrace of Malvasía de Sitges. A blend of two plots at different elevations, the resulting wine achieves a harmonious balance.
Though once banned due to limited demand and cultivation challenges –it requires Guyot pruning and does not bear fruit until the sixth bud– it is now experiencing a revival. As a late ripening variety, it yields wines with excellent acidity and ageing potential.
Espígol, meaning lavender in Catalan, reflects the grape’s Mediterranean origins. It boasts vibrant freshness with floral and peach aromas, leading to a subtly spicy palate. Five months on lees in demijohns impart a delicate creaminess, beautifully offsetting the natural acidity of Malvasía.
Electio Xarel.lo (2,900 bottles, €39.85)
Xarel.lo takes centre stage at Parés Baltà, and Electio is its most iconic expression. The wine comes from a plot of 90-year-old goblet-trained vines rooted in the clay-limestone soils of Cal Miret. After a brief maceration with the skins, the wine ferments and ages in a mix of new and seasoned barrels, with regular bâtonnage over several months.
I was lucky to do a vertical tasting with my tasting group and the three sommeliers at Rekondo restaurant in San Sebastian featuring eight vintages—2022, 2019, 2018, 2016, 2015, 2010, 2009, and 2004. Favourites included 2019, 2018, 2015, 2010, and 2004, demonstrating the impressive ageing potential of Xarel.lo, also in still wines.
The 2004 and 2010 vintages stood out for their dignified maturity, balance, and lingering freshness, even after two decades in the case of the 2004. The 2015 vintage shone with its vibrant citrus and honeyed aromas, while the 2018 and 2019 impressed with fruit-forward profiles, notes of lemon zest, and seductive textures. The 2022, still youthful, will benefit from cellaring.
One thing that would be worth renewing is the bottles, which are heavy and difficult to reconcile with the ecological focus of the house.
Grosella 2022 (6,300 bottles, €14.50) y Neolític 2022 (3,582 bottles, €21.50)
The revival of Sumoll, a variety once sidelined in DO Penedès for its rustic nature, light colour and little alcohol, is redefining the potential for quality reds in the region. With these once reviled characteristics, Sumoll offers an interesting profile, though the winery is still mastering its complexities.
Grosella, a "glou-glou" style wine, is the fresher and more accessible of the two cuvées. It is made from a fat-berry Sumoll clone, showcasing a vivid purple hue, abundant fruit, and a lighter structure. In contrast, Neolític, produced from the small-berry clone, delivers more concentration, precise flavours, and crunchy tannins, ideal for those who enjoy red wines with tension and acidity. Neither cuvée sees oak, with stainless steel and demijohns preserving their purity.
Materia Prima Orange 2023 (14,000 bottles, €14)
Born during the Covid pandemic, this Xarel.lo collection includes a pét-nat, a white, and this standout orange wine. Despite an extended maceration of nearly two months, the wine retained a golden hue. To achieve its orange tint, María Elena blended in the pink skins of their Gewurztraminer before a second pressing –a stroke of creative ingenuity.
The result is a lively and textured wine, with notes of grapes, white fruit, and delicate floral hints. Its citrus flavours and pleasant bitter finish complement the structure and volume on the palate. A good choice for newcomers to orange wines, it is both approachable and distinctive.
