Spanish wines are generally perceived in Japan as full-bodied, but here they try to demystify that image. Photo courtesy of Cave du Relax.
In the centre of Tokyo, two streets away from the government offices, is Cave du Relax, a 200-square-metre space devoted to wine. Its clients include gourmets, professionals, sommeliers on training and keen winelovers. They are well informed and have usually researched the origin and style of wine they want to purchase.
But as well as attracting the experts, this specialist shop also welcomes customers who want to improve their wine knowledge. This is the sort of people Keiko Hatano, a smart young woman who knows Spanish wines well, helps when they enter the store. “They usually ask for champagne, but without a brand in mind; they want to be advised”, she says. If price is an issue, Keiko usually steers them towards cava and the large range of Spanish references available at the shop.
Expert staff such as Keiko play an important role in wine consumption in the country. Traditionally, the average Japanese drinks sake, a rice-based drink with a subtle taste, hence the inclination for smooth, light-bodied wines, explains Keiko. For clients who get started on Spanish wine, she offers Villa Anita, a slightly fruity red with light spicy notes. Spanish wines are generally perceived in Japan as full-bodied so part of her job consists of demystifing that image with the range of styles available beyond Rioja.
Finding small producers and importing wines directly allows Cave du Relax to offer new products regularly, sometimes even on an exclusive basis. It is one of the few places outside Spain which sells Oriol Rosal cavas – this Catalan winery sells most of his production in the domestic market.
The worldwide fame of Spanish food has also reached Tokyo and has a positive influence in wine consumption. According to Keiko, the number of buyers looking for wine to match their Spanish food and cheese is on the increase. She believes that Spanish wines can also be a good accompaniment to Japanese dishes. “Leaving sushi and some specific dishes aside, we have intensely flavoured dishes which go very well with Spanish wines.
The pioneering, avantgarde spirit at Cave du Relax is reflected in its choice of wines. Riojas are in short supply in contrast with other regions (Penedés, Tarragona, Alicante, Navarra…) and the variety of grape styles evidence their interest to remain unorthodox and to stand out from other stores with its new offerings.
When it comes to assessing foreign cultures and tastes, the Japanese are generally cautious and usually base their purchases on brand prestige and labels.
Firm believers that one pays for prestige, consumers focused on expensive French wines to start their wine education throughout the financial and real estate bubble that took place in the 1980s. The frenzied consumption at exorbitant prices provided many Japanese with the opportunity to try the very best gastronomy as well as top wines and other products.
After the bubble burst, prices fell and Japanese consumers became more rational. At that time, awareness of the health benefits of drinking a daily glass of wine increased. Polyphenols were, according to the experts, one of the main factors in the increasing consumption of wine in Japan, specially those in the lower-medium range, such as Spanish wines.
