The Mexican capital is a paradise for lovers of well respected Spanish wine brands. Leading names are available in most shops, but lesser known producers are gradually finding a space on the most adventurous wine lists.
Visiting any wine retailer in Mexico City feels like being in front of the wine shelves at El Corte Inglés (Spain’s most ubiquitous department stores) but with the added bonus of having an ample selection of wines from Chile, Argentina and California. These have recently left some room to a few tempting Mexican wines which are finally conquering the capital in what feels like a political statement against the invasion of Hispanic labels.
Wines from Ribera del Duero and Rioja (split in regions -Alavesa, Alta- and high-end selections) are widely available at new gourmet megastores such as City Market, wine shops in La Europea district and the gourmet sections of department stores such as Liverpool or Palacio del Hierro.
It is likely that the single bottle that the average Mexican drinks in a year -wine consumption trends are slow compared to other countries- comes from Ribera del Duero. Aged reds and brands such as Protos, Alión or Matarromera are the preferred choice, although the most popular wines in Mexico City are Cvne Crianza (155 Mexican pesos, €9) and export label Marqués de Riscal ABA, the biggest selling product at La Europea and a classic and trusted brand which has conquered local palates. When Tequila reposado is not available, Mexican consumers prefer full-bodied reds with oak to match the powerful flavours of dishes such as stuffed toasts, meats, enchiladas or dried meat.
Spanish wine also plays a part in the historical influence of Spain in the American country, specially among older, wealthier Mexicans. It is a legacy from Spanish conquistador Hernán Cortés and it is part of the social protocol. Mexico imports more wines from Spain than from any other country. It is not surprising, given that a large number of buyers are Spanish descendants or expats working for some of the 4,000 Spanish businesses operating in the country. Many restaurants are specialized in Basque, Asturias or Galician cuisines.
Over 30% of the quality expensive wines sold in Mexico come from Ribera del Duero or Rioja, well above those from other leading European producers such France or Italy. Out of the 4,000 brands sold in Mexico, 1,500 are Spanish but this dominance is under threat by the emergence of Mexican wines and good-value Chilean wines. Local wines command high prices, but they are popular among young and affluent buyers, who are keen to support local products. Nevertheless, the recent arrival of wines from appellations such as Somontano and Campo de Borja, both from Aragon in northeastern Spain, Navarra, La Mancha and Toro are a breath of fresh air and are capable of competing against New World offerings, a niche that importers should not leave to one side. There’s a growing number of young professionals and women -traditional buyers of wine- who are susceptible to the high prices of wines from Mexico’s Ensenada region (200 pesos, €14).
Toro and Bierzo are popular appellations among sommeliers, who appreciate their quality and good value for money, hence the success of brands such as Pétalos (made by Ricardo Palacios), Vega Sicilia’s Pintia and all the Eguren offerings.
Spanish wines are traditionally associated to the high culinary level of Spanish restaurants in the city, where classic and well-respected brands dominate. In addition, some local eateries serving 100% Mexican food such as El Bajío also stock a good selection of Spanish wines.
Traditional. It is worth trying the weekend family menu with the most traditional Riberas and Riojas at Casino Español (Isabel La Católica, 29.100-250 pesos), housed in a pretty neoclassical building in the heart of the old quarter. A few blocks away, the Círculo Vasco Español (16 de Septiembre No. 51, Cuauhtémoc, Centro. 219 pesos) offers txakoli, Rioja Alavesa reds and other classic selections to pair with its weekend buffet. A renewed Basque style applies to D.O. (Hegel, 406. Polanco. 400-600 pesos), run by chef Pablo San Román who stocks wines such as Gómez Cruzado, Martín Berdugo or Teófilo Reyes to match with his oxtail or squid in its ink dishes. La Barraca Valenciana (Av. Centenario 91, Coyoacán) is specialized in paellas and stuffed tarts and serves Mallorcan wines from Ànima Negra and Albariños such as Lagar de Cervera.
Top wines. Undoubtedly, the most thorough wine list belongs to Biko’s (Presidente Masaryk 407, Polanco. Over 700 pesos), where Basque chefs Mikel Alonso and Bruno Oteiza (biko means couple in Basque) are drawing attention with their fusion menus combining avant-garde Basque cuisine with Mexican influences. Wines by the glass are on offer as well as a long list of well-known whites such as Leira, Pazo de Señorans or Belondrade y Lurton; Riberas like Pruno, Finca Villacreces or Bosque de Matasnos, Toro selections such as Dehesa Gago, Bierzo offerings like Bembibre and even obscure bottlings such as Finca Río Negro from Guadalajara (60km south of Ribera del Duero) or Habla del Silencio, from Extremadura, close to southern Portugal. Tezka (Amberes 78, Zona Rosa. 570 pesos) is another representative of the avant-garde Basque cuisine. Founded by Michelin-starred chef Arzak, this elegant restaurant stores a considerable selection of Spanish wines like Roda, Sierra Cantabria, Protos, Matarromera or Camins del Priorat. Mexico’s ancestral cuisine is well represented at Pujol (Francisco Petrarca, 254, Polanco. 950 pesos) where Spanish wines such as Pujanza, Pruno, Altos de Losada or Alonso del Yerro accompany the restaurant’s dishes. A good selection of sherries is served with desserts. Worthy of note is Sud 777 (Boulevard de la Luz 777, Col. Jardines del Pedregal. 600 pesos), a huge space devoted to eating, drinking and being seen. Led by chef Edgar Núñez, it is one of the few wine lists in Mexico boasting a Wine Spectator award. The menu features ceviches, soups and other renewed Mexican recipes and wines such as Pago de Carraovejas, Elías Mora, Flor de Pingus or Corimbo, the Ribera del Duero offering from Rioja-based winery Roda.
Most of the gourmet shops featuring worldwide products include a good selection of Spanish wines. The wine shelves at Costco supermarket hide some great wines at sensible prices such as Sierra del Viento, Chivite, Emilio Moro or Jorge Ordóñez wines. With 49 stores located in the most desirable neighborhoods in the capital such as Polanco, Condesa or Roma and across the country, La Europea is the leading and dynamic importer of Spanish wines. Mundo Gourmet (also known as La Castellana) is a chain of delicatessen stores with a good selection of Spanish brands at reasonable prices. The latest arrival is City Market, a luxury gourmet space owned by Comercial La Mexicana which lists some of Spain’s best wines. Liverpool and Palacio de Hierro are safe bets to find Spain’s most popular brands and some attractive deals from Ribera and Rioja.
Mexico City has seen a steady increase of versatile spaces offering wines as part of their menu, such as Eno, a wine bar, cafe and gourmet store which offers wines by the glass like Malacapa (Finca Los Arandinos) with its Mexican cheese boards, the latest trend in the city. El Pecado de Noé (Oaxaca 69, Roma) is a cultural space in Roma district which foregoes wine etiquette to sell and organize glass-on-hand relaxed tastings. There is even a bar which only sells Catalan cava with Spanish tapas called Xampanería García (Nuevo León, 66, Condesa) - on Tuesdays they have a jazz session too. Riedel has a world-class surprise in Polanco district: Riedel Wine Bar (Campos Eliseos 199 Local C., Polanco) offers platters and around 400 worldwide wines - inevitably served in their own glasses.
