The number of restaurants with Spanish roots in the British capital is more visible and numerous than ever, and the country’s fine wines are gradually gaining ground in wine lists, both in Spanish and non-Spanish restaurants.
Although the Old World wine representation is still dominated by French and Italian producers, there is a new generation of Spanish winemakers —not just from Rioja— who are paving the way and whose wines are ubiquitous on the menus of bars and restaurants that put extra care and attention into their wine selection.
This restaurant and independent wine shop in South London specializes in low-intervention, organic, artisanal wines made by small producers. Proof of the team’s talent is that last year they received the Decanter Retailer Award to the best Spanish Specialist. Ana and Teresa, the founders, travel several times a year to Spain in search of new producers. Their mission is to bring new wines for their clients to discover, in many cases, bottles that are not available anywhere else in the United Kingdom. Some examples of producers who have featured on their wine list are Atrium Vitis from Ribeira Sacra, Callejuela from Jerez or Finca Fuentegalana from Ávila. In their delicious menu, you can find tortillas and homemade meatballs next to mojama tuna, ham toasts and desserts like rice pudding.
325 Brockley Road, London SE4 2QZ
Located in South Kensington, one of the most affluent neighbourhoods of the capital, white tablecloths and a bullfighting-inspired décor offer clues as to what punters might find here. Predictably, this restaurant is dedicated exclusively to Spanish wine (with the exception of Champagne). A wide range of wines are featured in its 32-page wine list, including more than a dozen vintages of Vega Sicilia. The list is organised by regions and denominations of origin.
163 Old Brompton Rd, South Kensington, London SW5 0LJ
Part of the Cambio de Tercio group, Capote y Toros is just a few doors away from its parent restaurant. The very colorful décor and sherry casks leave no room for doubt: this narrow bar is dedicated to sherry. With over one hundred references, this ham & sherry bar offers a selection of finos, manzanillas, olorosos, amontillados, palo cortados, olorosos dulces and Pedro Ximenez served by the glass. It only opens from Tue-day to Saturday and the variety on offer is overwhelming. With hams hanging from the ceiling at the bar, it is no
157 Old Brompton Rd, Kensington, London SW5 0LJ
A pioneer of sherry in the UK, Pepito Bar is still a showcase for this Andalusian wine. Located in the north of the capital, five minutes’ walk from King's Cross station, producers such as González Byass, Equipo Navazos or Lustau feature heavily on their wine list, which includes all types of sherry. The staff are always happy to explain the different styles on offer and what tapas go best with them.
3 Pentonville Rd, Kings Cross, London N1 9DF
This is an attractive restaurant and wine bar for those with an interest in artisan wine producers. Named after a Bukowski poem, the literary theme continues through the wine list, which opens with a poem by Yeats. Sommelier Charlie Mellor opened The Laughing Heart after working at Brawn and Primeur, both renowned for their exquisite attention to wine. At The Laughing Heart, Mellor unleashes his passion for natural and biodynamic wine, combined with a constantly evolving menu.
Spanish wine plays a secondary role on the wine list, but it is well represented with names like Raúl Pérez, Envínate, Daniel Landi, Barranco Oscuro or Esencia Rural. The Laughing Heart opens until 02:00 am.
277 Hackney Rd, London E2 8NA
Nieves Barragán is one of the most respected Spanish chefs in London. Previously at Barrrafina, where she worked for more than a decade, Barragán revolutionised the London culinary scene with her tapas and dishes to share and was awarded a Michelin star for her efforts. With her business partner, José Etura, Nieves went on to launch Sabor last year. Just a few months after opening, the restaurant received a Michelin star. From sweetbreads to bellota ham, through the Castilian asador on the first floor, she makes Spanish cuisine shine.
Etura is in charge of the wine list, which features producers from Priorat to Bierzo and Rías Baixas, categories like cava, txakoli, sherry and sweet wines and varieties like Macabeo, Garnacha or Albariño with affordable options by the glass and bottle. Located in the centre of London, five minutes’ walk from Oxford Circus, they don’t take bookings, so waiting is inevitable. The more informal bar area is perfect to simply enjoy a glass of wine and a couple of tapas. Don’t miss the nougat cuajada with oloroso cream.
35-37 Heddon St, Mayfair, London W1B 4BR
Nacho Manzano is the executive chef of this chain of elegant Spanish restaurants with several establishments in London, as well as in Leeds, Manchester and Glasgow. Spanish food with Asturian roots -fabada, as well as croquettes and rice dishes- and an extensive wine list with many options to choose from, both by the glass and by the bottle. Leading red wine producing areas like Bierzo, Ribera del Duero, Rioja and Priorat are explained in an original sketch depicting a map of Spain. Classics like Pingus, Vega Sicilia or Alión appear alongside modern respected producers such as Finca Allende or Descendientes de J. Palacios.
195 Great Portland St, London W1W 5PS (& more locations)
Monika Linton fell in love with Spain while studying Spanish in Catalonia and upon her return to London she opened a Spanish food import business, which was followed by several restaurants, all under the Brindisa brand. In its five London venues, the wine list is exclusively Spanish and the menu consists of small plates to share. Bottles range from Suertes del Marqués Trenzado (Tenerife) to Viña de Martín Os Pasás (Ribeiro). They also stock cavas, orange wine and sweet wines. In the reds, Rioja is represented with producers like Valenciso or Remelluri plus others from Ribera del Duero, Jumilla, Cádiz or Toro.
Borough Market, 18-20 Southwark St, London SE1 1TJ (& more locations)
A favourite among natural wine lovers, Brawn is located on Columbia Road, one of the most charming streets in East London, with dozens of independent shops and near the crowded Sunday flower market of the same name. The modern European menu has a strong focus on seasonal produce. The restaurant is spacious, with an open kitchen and lots of natural light. France dominates their wine selection, but quality Spanish producers are also present. The current menu includes Gutiérrez Colosía sherries as well as wines from Bernabé Navarro, Partida Creus, Oriol Artigas, Els Jelipins, Comando G or Barranco Oscuro.
49 Columbia Rd, London E2 7RG
With a reputation for having a wine list that surpasses the expectations of the most demanding wine connoisseurs, a visit to Noble & Rot is a must for any wine lover. It is a pleasure to chat with the staff and listen to their recommendations -they often have an encyclopaedic wine knowledge. Located in Lamb's Conduit, a quiet street in central London, Noble & Rot’s Francophile wine list is divided by regions and grape varieties and includes the odd old vintage. Spanish reds that stand out are Envínate, Comando G, Daterra Viticultores, Sílice Viticultores alongside classics like Vega Sicilia or López de Heredia.
51 Lamb's Conduit St, London WC1N 3NB
The wine list at this world-famous wine bar includes some whites and reds from Spain. Although their selection varies often, there are some terroir-focused producers such as Raúl Pérez (Bierzo), Rafael Palacios (Valdeorras) and Honorio Rubio (Rioja). In terms of reds we find young winemakers like Verónica Ortega from Bierzo alongside long established names like López de Heredia. The owners’ passion for wine seems to have infected the rest of the employees, who go out of their way to explain every detail in the wines they serve.
193 Hackney Rd, London E2 8JL
As well as this City location, there are four more Vinotecas in London (King's Cross, Marylebone, Farringdon and Chiswick). With its high ceilings and elegant décor, it is the sort of bar one doesn’t mind to go alone, but the tables also invite to sit and enjoy the place in good company. Open from 7am for breakfast, Vinoteca also serves lunch and dinner. Its wine list, divided mainly by countries, includes recommendations from the staff and it usually features a Spanish wine. Under the tagline 'it’s what our chil-dren want', organic and biodynamic wines are included with wines from Valencia (Bodega Mustiguillo), Penedès (Pares Balta), Rioja (Ad Libitum) and Cádiz (Compañía de Vinos del Atlántico). Two sherries are served at Vinoteca: manzanilla La Sanluqueña by Bodegas Caydsa and Amontillado Tío Diego by Valdespino.
21 Bloomberg Arcade, London EC4N 8AR
Entering this restaurant in North London is like going back to the Victorian era. The 19th century listed building (Grade II) in which the restaurant is located used to be a “Progressive Working Class Caterer”. Part of the decor is historical and protected by law, such as the wonderful oak booths, divided into two rows with a central corridor, as well as the fabulous monochrome tiled floor. Keeping in mind that the co-owner is Will Lander, son of Jancis Ronbison, perhaps it is not surprising that the wine list receives as much attention as the food menu. Their selections include whites from Envínate or López de Heredia, reds from Goyo García Viadero in Ribera del Duero and even a bit of sherry from El Maestro Sierra. On weekends it is worth trying their Sunday roast.
88-94 Farringdon Rd, Clerkenwell, London EC1R 3EA
This tiny deli in East London turns into a wine bar from 5pm from Wednesday to Saturday. Here Xabier Álvarez (also at Trangallán, in North London), presents low intervention Spanish wines sourced from vineyards that follow sustainable methods. Their selection is mostly Spanish, although they also have wines from other countries. Along with a selection of artisan snacks -charcuterie, cheeses and preserves- available at the store, punters can taste wines by the glass. The offer includes Spanish producers such as Alvar de Dios from Toro, Vinifícate from Cádiz, Bodega Marenas from Córdoba, or Bodega La Senda from Ponferrada. Bottles are also available to take away. Pending licence, they will soon be serving wines on Sundays too.
85 Dalston Ln, Dalston, London E8 2NG
Unparalleled quality wine shop that prides itself on stocking more than 10,000 brands under the same roof, it is a pleasure to get lost in its corridors, where some of the most exclusive wine bottles in the world can be found. At this shop, you can find wines from more than 15 Spanish regions and dozens of different vintages. In its tasting area, equipped with six Enomatic dispensers, you can taste more than 40 different wines. Founded in 2012 by the Russian oligarch Evgeny Chichvarkin, staff at Hedonism speak more than 10 languages and have Level 3 WSET qualifications or above. The store is located in Mayfair and prices per bottle start at £10 (€11.60).
3-7 Davies St, Mayfair, London W1K 3LD
