Old vintages are all the rage these days. More and more producers with well-stocked cellars are offering limited editions to restaurants and private customers. Time is indeed the ultimate luxury in wine, and Spain has some great deals to offer.
This is why the Salón de Vinos del Tiempo, now in its second edition, has become one of our favourite events in the Madrid wine tastings calendar. Behind this showcase of old wines is Sindicato del Gusto, a collective formed by veteran writer José Peñín, journalist Federico Oldenburg, photographer Massimilano Polles and wine marketing and communications consultant Carmen Fuentes.
It is not easy to taste, in the same afternoon, a large number of old Riojas, one of the first vintages of Condado de Haza, the second bodega founded by Alejandro Fernández of Pesquera in Ribera del Duero in the early 1990s, a 2003 Mestres Mas Vía cava that was bottled in 2018, or a 1988 Jean Leon from Penedès in Catalonia made from international grape varieties. The fact that the tasting is relatively intimate (only 15 wineries in this year's edition) means that all the wines presented can be tasted with relative ease and tranquillity.
These were the impressions of our tasting experience and the options to buy some of these old vintages. Click here to read more about old sherries and Osborne's soleras, the only Jerez bodega represented at the show.
One of the most fascinating wines we had the chance to taste was Gran Faustino 1955. This vintage predates the creation of the Faustino I brand, with its trademark label of a knight painted by Rembrandt, which was introduced in the 1958 vintage. In fact, the 1955 was released in 1963 as Viña Santana, after one of the family's vineyards. Thanks to its remarkable historic cellar, the winery has released a limited edition of 2,555 bottles with a bespoke label for this wine. It can be purchased from their website for €410.52.
In those days the grapes were not destemmed but gently crushed to start fermentation. The wine was aged mainly in American oak, although there are records of French oak barrels being used at the time. The style is similar to Faustino Gran Reserva: delicate, light-bodied reds with good acidity. This is what the Martínez family used to call vinos de señorito (gentleman's wines). There were nutty notes, tea leaves, spices and cherry liqueur on the nose, with no hint of leather or game. Fresh and ethereal on the palate. It's amazing how such a light wine can express so many nuances.
The other big star among the vintages presented by Faustino (better than a 1964, of which I have seen better bottles) was the 2001, which was one of my favourites in a vertical tasting last year. The wine retained an impressive amount of fruit. A deep, consistent red, faithful to the fine, moderate structure favoured by the winery. The more 2001s I taste (pending the development of the 2021s), the more I believe that this is the vintage with the greatest ageing potential in the 21st century, at least for Rioja.
Another producer who focused on the 2001 vintage was La Rioja Alta, S.A. We were able to compare a Viña Arana Reserva 2001, a brand that is nowadays produced as a Gran Reserva, with the two classic Gran Reservas of this estate based in Haro's Barrio de la Estación: 904 and 890. Although Viña Arana retained some tension, it was somewhat overshadowed by the sheer clarity and length of the 904 (fresh, aerial, magnificent) and the opulence and ripeness of the 890, with more structure and power (in fact, it showed little evolution) as it is intended for long-term cellaring. On that day, as most times I taste the two brands together, I preferred the 904. Perhaps because it was closer to its optimal drinking window and because it showed that beautiful, fragile balance that distinguishes Rioja when it manages to build expression and depth from delicacy.
The 2001s from La Rioja Alta, and especially the 890, have plenty of life ahead of them. If I had to uncork an 890 this Christmas, I'd go for the 1995, which is at a great moment, with freshness, concentration, a spicy character and a more developed finish with great length. The wines are available from the winery's online shop in the old vintages section. Prices range from €380 for the 890 1995 to €209 for the 904 1991.
The consistency of the 2001 vintage was also evident in Montecillo Gran Reserva Selección Especial, a blend of Tempranillo and 10% Graciano aged for 36 months in American and Allier French oak. Firm, rich and with pleasant minty notes, it is refined, sumptuous and persistent. A limited number of bottles will be available from the winery's online store at €160. Another interesting 2001 was Marqués de Riscal Gran Reserva. A creamy, balanced and persistent wine that seemed to have settled comfortably on one of those plateaux where some Riojas can remain for decades, as long as they are properly stored.
Having almost a dozen Rioja wineries was a good opportunity to compare styles. On the refined, delicate side, Conde de los Andes presented a perfumed, subtle 1981. The winery, part of the Muriel group, stores an impressive collection of old vintages in its old cellars in Ollauri, which used to belong to Paternina.
Vintae's López de Haro Classica range focuses on long bottle-ageing at comparatively affordable prices, as these are not remnants of previous releases, but wines created specifically for this purpose. With a contemporary touch thanks to the use of French oak, they currently offer a lush and persistent red Gran Reserva 2005 (€52) with remarkable weight of fruit. At the same price, we recommend the equally attractive 2012 rosé, full of tension and minerality, which owes so much to Tondonia's wonderful tenacity in preserving this neglected category. The Classica range is available from the Vintae online shop.
For more structured reds, think Marqués de Riscal. This winery has the oldest and best-stocked wine collection in Rioja, with every vintage made since 1862. In wonderful historical tastings with wine professionals, the wines have shown remarkable ageing potential and the distinctive character of their Reserva Médoc, made with a significant proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon. From Barón de Chirel, the brand that inherited this style, we tasted three vintages, 1994, 1995 and 1996, with percentages of Cabernet ranging from 40% to 46%. These are reds that develop slowly, with an herbaceous side reminiscent of the Bordeaux variety and plenty of firmness, although the tannins become elegantly polished with age, as was evident in the 1994.
An excellent bottle of Marqués de Riscal 1964, one of the best I have ever tasted, served as the Tempranillo counterweight. It had been disgorged with tongs, as Riscal does with old vintages. It was a very fresh 12.2% abv red, with dried herb and tea leaf character and a refined palate with vibrant acidity and even citrus sensations. What sets Riscal apart is that the winery does not sell old vintages, so the only way to access these wines is on the secondary market or by private purchase and cellaring.
At Martínez Lacuesta we found a striking duality of styles. In recent years, this historic company from Haro has been reorganising its range with an eye on the past. A good example of this is the revival of Campeador, the brand that represents the house's Burgundy style. We tasted a special edition of 1,300 bottles of the 2004 Campeador Gran Reserva, which bears an old label from the winery's extensive archive. With 50% Garnacha from Yerga (Rioja Oriental) in the blend, the wine was aged in casks for 28 months. It still has hints of Garnacha’s red liqueur fruit, with plenty of spice and fine smoky notes. The palate is supported by a fine thread of acidity that adds crispness and liveliness. The contrast with the serious and structured Martínez Lacuesta Gran Reserva 1998, in Bordeaux-shaped bottle, is fascinating. These are the two sides of the Rioja coin. The winery occasionally sells old vintages. Availability can be checked at pedidos@martinezñacuesta.com or by calling +34 941 310 050.
Fewer in number but no less interesting, the best years for white wines do not always coincide with great red vintages. The cold and rainy 2013, which resulted in somewhat diluted reds, resulted in whites with cellaring potential, such as López de Haro's Classica Gran Reserva.
The oldest vintages come from Conde de los Andes. The winery can lay claim to the most extensive collection of old white Riojas bottled in various shapes and sizes. They poured a 1983 white in a Rin-shaped bottle, a blend of Viura and some Malvasía. With toasted hints, it displayed a subtle palate and chalky tones on the finish. There was a fuller 2010 in a Burgundy-shaped bottle, with creamy and dairy notes. Some of these old vintages are available for purchase when visiting the winery, with prices ranging from €65 for the 2010 vintage to €115 for the 1983. Under Muriel's ownership, efforts are being made to uphold the tradition of extended ageing by cellaring between 15% and 20% of each vintage.
Another must-try, albeit with a more recent track record, is Vinícola Real 200 Monges, a winery located in the Iregua Valley, south of Logroño, that also uses white grapes from the high-elevation vineyards of the Alto Najerilla Valley. The Gran Reservas, produced in very limited quantities of fewer than 3,000 bottles, are released after a long period of bottle ageing. The current 2010 vintage is a superb wine that combines acidity, toasted notes, ripe citrus, spices and even a hint of waffle. There are only 2,400 bottles, retailing at around €75-80. A second white on display was the Selección Especial Gran Reserva 2007 (€225), made from Garnacha Blanca and Malvasía from the Iregua Valley, along with some Viura, although the core is Viura from the Alto Najerilla Valley. This special edition of 1,500 bottles is more opulent in style, but with enough acidity to warrant further bottle ageing.
We would have loved to see more wineries from Ribera del Duero and Castilla y León as a whole. Although their track record is shorter, with the exception of Vega Sicilia, it would help to show that wines that have often been considered excessive in terms of ripeness, concentration or use of oak can age beautifully.
The region was well represented by Condado de Haza, the château-like estate of Alejandro Fernández of Pesquera in La Horra. The first wine from this large vineyard, planted in the late 1980s, was released in the 1994 vintage. We tasted a vibrant, superfresh 1995 Crianza magnum that took us back to one of the golden ages of Ribera and of Alejandro himself. It was striking that it was made from young vines. If you own a bottle in good condition, you are in luck. It was interesting to compare the Crianza aged in American oak with the 1999 Reserva aged in French oak. The latter was fuller and creamier, with fresh menthol notes.
Alenza is Condado de Haza’s traditional brand, made with whole bunches and we tasted two vintages, 1995 and 1999. The style is more rustic and austere, with earthy tannins and a fresh herbal character. These are wines to be enjoyed slowly and see how they develop in the glass. At Condado de Haza, old vintages are sold exceptionally and only on request. Prices range from €160 for the 1990 in a 75cl. bottle to €600 for the 1995 Alenza Magnum. To check availability, call +34 947 525 254 or send an e-mail to info@condadodehaza.com.
Castilla y León was also represented by Campo Elíseo. They poured four whites from Rueda, three of them from the days when they were sold as Hermanos Lurton (now François Lurton is the sole owner), and four reds from Toro, a project in which French winemakers Michel and Dany Rolland were involved for a time. Among the whites, we liked the balance and aromatic complexity of the 2012, which still retained some fruit and had a sapid finish. The two older vintages had aged well, but the oak was a little dominant. The 2014 had a refined nose with sweet fruit notes. The 2002, polished and juicy, stood out among the reds. The 2003 was a little tired (it was the first very warm vintage of the century), while the 2004 was still powerful and showed some oak presence. At much more affordable prices, between €35 and €45, customers can contact the winery by e-mail at bodega@campoeliseo.com or enoturismo@campoeliseo.com and by telephone on +34 983 034 030.
The presence of Mestres was a nice reminder of the ageing potential of Spain's finest sparkling wines. We tasted three vintages of Mas Via Gran Reserva Brut at different stages of ageing: the 2002 (petrol notes, long finish) and 2008 (aniseed and pleasantly bitter notes) were disgorged in March 2024, while the 2003 was disgorged in 2018, giving it six more years in the bottle -we liked the honeyed notes and the oxidative edge that added complexity. The base wines for all these cavas are aged in oak for 12 months before undergoing secondary fermentation. These and other bottlings from the Cavateca collection can be purchased at the winery's online shop.
A more affordable way to get a taste of such complexity is to cellar Visol Brut Nature for a few years. Made from base wines aged for six months in barrels, followed by 60 months on lees, this cava retails for less than €30. Bottled in 2021, the 2013 Visol we tasted was in perfect condition, showing a perfect combination of freshness, balance, mouthfeel and length.
For the Torres family, the tasting provided an opportunity to present the Colección Privada range, launched at the beginning of November. This is a re-release of old vintages aged for at least 10 years. The packaging includes a ribbon with the date of re-release. With several vintages available for some of the brands, the selection includes Mas La Plana, Reserva Real and the white Waltraud from Penedès, as well as the white Milmanda and the red Grans Muralles from Conca de Barberà. I have to admit that I prefer the latter. The 2006 vintage, with its aromatic depth and beautiful maturity, is a magnificent expression of the Mediterranean. At €73, Milmanda 2015, which will be part of Colección Privada next year, was more Mediterranean than Chardonnay. The Mas La Plana 2006 (€124 for a 75 cl. bottle) in magnum still has plenty of life ahead; this is a vintage with plenty of tension and more herbal than fruity .
The 2000 Vinya La Scala (€137) was a little more mature and Mediterranean in style than Mas La Plana, but with plenty of freshness to develop in the bottle (the 15% Cabernet Franc in the blend adds energy). The 1998 Le Havre, Jean Leon's flagship Cabernet (€64) in magnum, offered plenty of freshness and length. These wines, along with those from Familia Torres that are not available online, are supplied upon request by emailing bsanchez@torres.es.
