Salamanca played host to the third edition of the Duero Wine Fest last week, drawing together approximately 400 wine professionals. The event served as a platform to discuss industry concerns such as the downward trend in wine consumption, waning interest among younger age groups, and the challenges posed by the climate crisis. The warm temperatures throughout the event brought out the city's beauty and vibrant atmosphere, but also echoed the climatic rollercoaster that wine producers are currently experiencing. Although the focus was on Castilla y León and the wine-growing regions along the Duero River as it flows through the Iberian Peninsula, the major issues affecting wine have become more global than ever.
Felipe Fernández-Armesto, professor of World and Environmental History at Queen Mary College, University of London, and author of Food: A History, provided a fascinating journey into the role of wine in humankind's diet throughout history, but he began by addressing the growing disapproval of wine in contemporary society. Fernandez-Armesto contrasted the paradox of not being allowed to offer a glass of wine to his under-21 students with the unrestrained reign of soft drinks. "The great challenge is not climatic, but social," he said. And he called for research into the reasons behind the world's rejection of wine, especially among young people. In stark contrast to the current situation, he presented a menu from his university days in the UK that would surely make many 21st century wine lovers salivate.
According to Rafael del Rey, director of OEMV (Observatorio Español de los Mercados del Vino), one of the main barriers to consumption based on their research, is flavour. His presentation focused on the growing polarisation between premium wines, which have been on the rise since 2009, and entry-level, "popular wines that used to drive the market, such as the Roble and Crianza categories in Spain or a standard Bordeaux in France", which are in decline. On the other hand, easy-to-drink styles, mainly whites and sparkling wines, are gaining ground, while the convenience segment (bag-in-box, cans), wine-based products and NOLO (non- and low-alcoholic wines) are emerging strongly.
The latter are the industry's go-to solution in the face of increasingly restrictive health policies on alcohol. This growing trend was represented by Matarromera, which developed its own dealcoholisation spinning cone facilities for their Win range, and Yllera, which focuses on partially fermented musts under the brand 5.5. Both initiatives have proved highly successful. While Yllera has jumped from 30,000 bottles in 2010 to nearly two million, Matarromera's president, Carlos Moro, reported specific shipments of up to 2.2 million bottles for a single buyer in the UK. For Carlos Yllera, it is important to "give young people what they like, otherwise they will switch to beer", but he also believes that in five or 10 years these consumers could be part of the traditional wine market, which they now find extremely complex. Both businessmen acknowledged that the technology needed to produce these wines is very demanding, but noted that NOLO is an emerging category internationally, and is already present at wine competitions and fairs, and even on the wine lists of top restaurants.
From a health point of view, Victoria Moreno-Arribas, Doctor of Pharmacy and CSIC researcher, presented the emerging line of work on the effect of polyphenols on microbiome, which could well mark a paradigm shift in the study of the relationship between wine and health.
Pending further evidence, drinkability and freshness were seen as interesting approaches to drinking. Under the motto "vinos de fresqueo", a Spanish equivalent of vin de soif or glou-glou, wine communicator Santiago Rivas (aka Colectivo Decantado) and ABC wine critic Pilar Cavero tried to explain the style with humour and a little provocation. From the discussions, it could be said that these wines are easy-drinking reds with varying levels of complexity and alcohol, as long as they remain fresh. The most contentious issue was price. For Rivas there is no limit. He even said that "La Faraona [the top red from Descendientes de J. Palacios in Bierzo, rated 100 points] fits the style".
Wine tourism is proving to be an effective and popular route into the world of wine. Gergely Szolnoki, Professor of Market Research at the University of Geisenheim, pointed out that 80% of visitors to a wine region are neither wine enthusiasts nor have a specific interest in wine. Instead, their main motivations are landscape, relaxation and enjoyment - including gastronomic experiences - which presents a great opportunity for the wine industry.
In his presentation, Szolnoki focused on the potential of two specific target groups: sports enthusiasts (who are health-conscious and enjoy exercise and outdoor activities) and tourists travelling in caravans, who would appreciate parking facilities and activities adapted to longer stays.
The success of the Ribeira Sacra model was also discussed. Alexandra Seara, manager of the regional tourism consortium, explained that tourism infrastructure had been developed with European funding. The area is now focusing on premium tourism, avoiding crowds by charging entrance fees to visit wineries, especially given the rugged geography of the region. The current strategy is aimed at increasing the average duration of stays and de-seasonalising tourism, with sustainability already in mind with the use of electricity-powered transport, both on the river and on the roads.
Zoning and wine classifications were discussed in another panel as tools to create value based on the uniqueness of a particular area. However, the process is hampered by the difficulties of reaching a broad consensus, especially when it comes to qualitative assessments.
Enrique García, former director of the ICVV, a leading research centre in La Rioja, suggested taking into account historical, social and cultural considerations, as well as setting reasonable targets, avoiding confrontation and recognising that the climate crisis is likely to significantly alter zoning criteria. Winemaker and Master of Wine Almudena Alberca acknowledged the complexity of the process, but emphasised that zoning helps to create identity and define styles, and thus provides important support in export markets. She expressed concern about over-regulation ("reducing yields changes the aromas of the wine," she said) and noted that the ageing categories prevalent in Spain "are not in line with the current climatic situation". For Alberca, "it would be a success to classify vineyards in such a way as to create value and higher grape prices for winegrowers".
For Álvaro Ribalta MW, the Bierzo model could work in some DOs in Castilla y León, provided that the wines from each of the established areas have an identity. "Master of Wine students have to learn about the different appellations in the Rhone, Bordeaux or Burgundy. It could also work here, perhaps with a generic DO Duero to cover the whole area, followed by a hierarchical classification similar to Bierzo's, which is relatively easy for the market to understand," he pointed out.
Similarly, British wine writer Tim Atkin MW said in his opening speech that Ribera del Duero should "celebrate the diversity of its villages", a point echoed by Alberca when she noted that, as a winemaker, she knows which villages or vineyards can produce the specific type of grapes she needs.
Speaking about the UK market, wine writer Sarah Jane Evans MW encouraged producers in Castilla y León to enter wine competitions such as the DWWA (Decanter World Wine Awards), of which she is co-chair, to raise their profile and increase awareness of the region.
The climate crisis hovered over most of the presentations and there were dedicated panels on the subject. One of these included Vicente Sotés, Professor of Viticulture at the Universidad Politécnica de Madrid, who recommended changes to vine training and pruning systems, planting at higher elevations and the use of shading techniques, although he called for local responses adapted to the specific characteristics and needs of each region.
Tim Atkin MW even suggested that the requirement for 75% Tempranillo in Ribera del Duero reds should be dropped and that grape varieties capable of withstanding climate change should be allowed. "It will be difficult to produce fresh Tempranillos in the valley," he said, while calling for more suitable clones and planting at higher elevations, including the páramos or high plateaus.
I was invited to chair a panel on high-elevation vineyards, where agronomist and winemaker Pablo Rubio presented a set of detailed maps - something he has done as a hobby since studying traditional vineyards in Ribera del Duero for Peter Sisseck's PSI project. The maps showed that the average elevation of vineyards in Castilla y León is significantly higher than the Spanish average. They also revealed vineyards planted at over 900 m and the diversity of landscapes at high elevations, from the sedimentary plateaus of Ribera del Duero to the steep granite slopes of Cebreros or the mountain vineyards on slate soils in Bierzo. Marta Ramas, winemaker at Valdaya in Ribera del Duero and Fuentes del Silencio in the Jamuz valley (León), warned of the problems of high solar radiation in high-elevation vineyards and the need for constant adaptation. Carlos Casillas, owner of the Michelin-starred Barro restaurant in Ávila, is about to release his first wine from DO Cebreros. He encouraged producers to have confidence in themselves and their wines in order to build a strong supply of local wines at premium prices.
According to Ignacio Gurría, coordinator of the FEV's National Digitalisation and Wine Hub, "technology has been inoculated in society" and there is no problem with being late, as long as you do it right. He suggested an approach based on a strategy that includes the use of digital channels for online promotion and always keeping data at the heart of the process.
He warned producers that even if they do not sell online, their wines are being sold in online stores. Gurría also suggested that they consider their website as an independent distribution channel, with specific prices and sales targets. He added that marketplaces such as Amazon or Vivino "are changing consumers' behaviour, as they now search directly there instead of using Google". He also recommended TikTok to the large players, as users can buy directly on the platform with just one click.
Gurría also noted that "wine tourism is the digital booster for wineries", in the sense that "it allows them to collect information from tourists and build a digital profile of their customers".
One more challenge to add to those already mentioned. The third edition of the Duero Wine Fest, which also included technical presentations and tastings, demonstrated that the industry is in a process of constant adaptation. As Tim Atkin said, "we should never be satisfied with the status quo".
