Many of these wines are produced in tiny quantities as the grapes are often sourced from a single plot or are the result of a selection process. Photo credits: A.C.
We have compiled a list of new releases that have stood out in our tastings over the last few weeks. We are starting with white and sweet wines and we will be looking at reds on a future article. A common theme is the aspirational approach and the fact that are made in limited productions. This is so as most of them are either single-vineyard wines, come from specfic selections, or are emerging as super premium brands, all of which translates into high prices. Spanish producers seem to be less hesitant when it comes to assessing the value of what's inside the bottle.
Carrasviñas Félix Verdejo 2020 Gran Vino de Rueda, Félix Lorenzo Cachazo (Rueda). Hopefully all "Gran Vino" from Rueda, the new premium category of this Castilian appellation, are at this level. This wine comes as a tribute to the 80th birthday of Félix Lorenzo paid by his children. It is made with pre-phylloxera vines grown on sandy soils by historic suppliers to the winery in the town of Alcazarén. Fermentation and ageing has been carried out in a 1,600-litre, uncoated Italian ceramic amphora. By choosing this vessel on her first vintage at the family winery, winemaker Ángela Lorenzo has attempted to "undress Verdejo" and reveal the character of such old vines. According to her, the fact that the pores were quite small allowed for a slow development of the wine and add elegance.
This is really fine and subtle, with white fruit, fennel and infused herb aromas. On the palate, the texture and purity of flavours (spring water, white fruit) stand out, nicely supported by acidity. Lingering and well made, the profile is quite far from the aromatic spectrum of commercial verdejo. The label pays a nod to Félix's fondness for the game of handball.
Production: 2,096 bottles
Price: €28.
Alcohol: 13% abv.
Kaiaren 2016 Blanco, Bodega K5 (Getariako Txakolina). Since it was founded in 2005 in Aia (Gipuzkoa, Basque Country) by a group of five friends, including celebrity chef Karlos Arguiñano, the goal of K5 has always been to produce wines with cellaring potential, well beyond the spritzy local versions. In fact, the current vintage on the market of their flagship white K5 (saline, wet stone, petrol notes, finely-textured, vibrant acidity) is 2019. Ageing under lees in stainless steel has been intensified from 6 to 8 months on the first vintages to 12 months from 2014 onwards.
The new Kaiaren 2016 (it means "from the port" in Basque) goes a little further. On the basis of an exceptional vintage with optimal ripening, a tank to which lees from other vats were progressively added was left aside to age for four years "as if it were a giant bottle", noted wine consultant Lauren Rosillo. The project was carefully overseen by winemaker Andrea Vargas and Amaia Arguiñano, who is very happy with her first new release since she took over the winery. The K5 philosophy has been scrupulously followed. This includes working with their own grapes, stick to the local variety Hondarrabi Zuri, avoid both de-acidification and chaptalisation and use natural yeasts. The wine speaks of the slate-dominated soils and the extra freshness brought by elevation (300 metres above sea level despite being relatively close to the coast). We found hints of candied citrus, stone fruit and infused herbs on the nose together with a strong saline and mineral character. Broad and super juicy, it definetely leaves a mark on the palate.
Production: 6,739 bottles
Price: €37
Alcohol: 12% abv.
Tormenta 2021 Blanco, Verónica Ortega (Bierzo). After having had to discontinue her signture Godello Cal following the sale of the vineyard it came from, Verónica Ortega has found a similar profile in this new white called Tormenta (storm). In fact, grapes are sourced from the same calcareous vein. Located in San Juan de la Mata at 650 metres elevation, this is a less than one-hectare vineyard grown to the kind of small-berried Godello that, according to most produces in the area, results in best quality whites. The wine was aged in seasoned barrels of various sizes and a 800-litre amphora. The style is vibrant ant strightforward, with sapid and chalky nuances, slightly sharp but perhaphs lacking Cal’s cutting edge. This should be on the list of top Godellos from Bierzo though, and also among those capable to age gracefully for a few years.
The design echoes the simplicity of its predecessor. The name of the wine does not appear as such on the front label, and is replaced by a small lightning bolt. The shades are so subtle that my smartphone camera zoomed on the bottle in the background. Apologies for the slightly blurred image.
Production: 6,100 bottles
Precio: €37.50
Alcohol: 12% abv.
Baynos 2020 Blanco, Bodegas Mauro (Rioja). 2020 is the first vintage available from the project set in Rioja by the García family (Mauro, San Román in Castilla y León). Driven by their reverence to the region, this is a modest venture aimed at producing around 20,000 bottles from the old vineyards they bought in Baños de Ebro in Rioja Alavesa - the brand Banyos is the Latin equivalent of Baños. After releasing the red Banyos before Christmas (see our review here), now is the turn of the white version which has been aged in 228-litre Burgundian barrels for 20 months. It is made from Viura vines co-planted with Tempranillo or located in the "cabezadas" (upper areas) of the six hectares they grow in the village.
This is a classic oak-fermented and aged white that will benefit from some time in bottle to blend in the barrel notes that are still quite noticeable both on the nose (smoky, vanilla) and on the palate. The wine, however, has excellent sructure and , and is already showing the chalky nuances derived from Rioja Alavesa's distinctive clay-limestone soils.
Production: 2,880 bottles
Price: €79
Alcohol: 13.5% abv.
Valor Olivares Vino Dulce Natural. A pioneer in modernising the style of sweet wines in Jumilla, in 1996 Olivares decided to go beyond the Mistelas made in the area by adding alcohol to unfermented must, and produced a Monastrell liqueur wine. The recipe involves working with overripe grapes that are macerated with their skins for a month, then stopping fermentation by adding alcohol. The wine, which is only relased in vintages that achieve the right conditions for the style, typically ends up with 200 to 230 grams of sugar and is released after two years in the bottle -oakisn't used at all. But the new and exclusive Valor is a different story as it comes from three old wooden casks that were set aside to age in the inaugural 1996 vintage in order to test the wine's ageing ability. Now, 25 years later, the wine has been bottled.
The price is in line with the time spent waiting (€100 for a 50 cl bottle). Even its name, Valor, emphasises the value of extended ageing and its importance a source of complexity and concentration. There are sweet spices and plenty of dried fruit aromas on the nose (hazelnut skin) togteher with toasted notes that make you think of Sherry, yet the palate is much gentler: so silky and finely-textured that it makes it relatively comfortable to deal with concentration an depth. On the finish, a hint of strawberries dipped in black chocolate recalls the fruit-driven origin of the wine.
Producción: 5.000 botellas de 50 cl.
Precio: 100 €.
Grado alcohólico: 18 % abv.
Pequeñas Producciones Moscatel Rare 2019, Pepe Mendoza Casa Agrícola (Alicante). Pequeñas Producciones, the experimental range of wines created by Pepe Mendoza is a source of joy and hope for Mediterranean wines as it proves that quality-driven wine growing, proper selection and painstaking winemaking can bring refinement, elegance and a true expression to the area. Regarding dry whites, Mendoza’s work with Moscatel through skin-contact and even the use of a veil of yeast to add character and freshness is excellent. But he is also succeeding with sweet wines in a hot area where it takes a lot of effort to find balance and avoid too much sweetness.
The special feature of this Moscatel Rare with 70 grams of sugar is that no alcohol has been added. The required ripening potential ha been achieved both on the plant and by spreading the clusters on a cane. The winery, in fact, has two riuraus, open constructions built to dry and protect raisins from rain and humidity. The fact that the wine has been aged in an old French oak cask and an Amontillado butt, adds extra complexity and a wealth of aromas without diminishing the Mediterranean character. The nose is very spicy, with hints of mustard, curry and dried herbs (chamomile, tea leaf). On the palate, acidity provides an excellent counterpoint to the moderate sweetness and enhances the aromatic character through notes of lavender and orange peel lingering on the finish along with fine toasty hints. A real delight.
Production: 1,700 bottles
Price: € 38 the 37,5 cl.bottle
Alcohol: 14% abv.
