The unusual name of this project alludes to the magnificent collection of historic wines that the Ferrero family kept in La Canyada, in Alicante province. Their bodega was one of many which closed down in the 1960s when the cooperative was founded.
David Carbonell, co-owner of Vins del Comtat in Concentaina, discovered this unique treasure and launched a joint project to gradually release the Ferrero family's magnificent fondillón soleras. They also produce a range of still wines from local grape varieties that recover traditional winemaking practices and a vermouth (15,000 bottles) that includes 30% of old Monastrell wines aged in tonel, the traditional, relatively big wooden casks used in the area.
The restoration of the 25 casks and barrels of various sizes found in the bodega began in 2015. Wines date back to the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century. These are old soleras that had not been refilled since the winery ceased its activity. A large part of them are old Fondillón, the local historic wine capable of reaching generous alcohol content without being fortified.
In 2018, the first fondillones were released under the brand Louis XIV, a reference to the French monarch who is believed to have enlivened his last years of life with the historic wines of Alicante. There are two different variants, both of which are sold in 50 cl. bottles: 25+ years old (1,200 bottles, €45) and 50+ years old (around 300 bottles, €235). The name of the cask where the wine is aged is written on the label of the latter, as well as the bottle number and the total number of bottles that made up the saca. Simultaneously, efforts are underway to produce wines suitable to refill the soleras, all of which are sourced from old vine Monastrell harvested between the end of November and the beginning of December.
The two still wines produced so far have also been released under the brand Luis XV: a white skin-contact Merseguera (fewer than 2,000 bottles, €13) and a red field blend briefly aged in tinajas or clay jars (€12) made from Monastrell as well as Arcos and Bonicaire, two late-ripening local varieties. Grapes are sourced from the 15Ha owned by the Ferrero family, who preserved the varietal mix of grapes from their old vineyards in subsequent plantings. Vines stretch across the most elevated area of Alt Vinalopó, bordering Valencia, thus not very far from well-known producer based on that province like Celler del Roure, Javi Revert, Filoxera and Co. or Rafael Cambra.
Whilst Fondillón releases will remain extremely limited, the project aims to produce around 50,000-60,000 bottles.
